Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So someone built an engine, is trying to SELL it and doesnt want to justify the price by saying whats in there? No one will buy it. Im sure he has the reciept for the build somewhere. If he cant produce that then just walk away.

his name on here is Jim - turbo rxp. Says its a trust 2.7ltr motor with 946hp at the treads but wont tell me the headwork or other bits that make it up yet expects me to pay top dollar. I do not understand how anyone can try to sell something over $10k and think people will just hand over cash without full details... Also, he cant spell properly or use correct grammar, so i can't always understand what is being said.

Edited by 34tomidnight
his name on here is Jim - turbo rxp. Says its a trust 2.7ltr motor with 946hp at the treads but wont tell me the headwork or other bits that make it up yet expects me to pay top dollar. I do not understand how anyone can try to sell something over $10k and think people will just hand over cash without full details... Also, he cant spell properly or use correct grammar, so i can't always understand what is being said.

So he's a dumbass who wont disclose any information about the motor; Why do you need another reason not to buy it?

Unless he allows a full inspection by an expert then there should be no discussion.

yeah mayb he's just one of those guys who are really really really ridiculously rich... *blue steel pose*, and don't know whats inside it.. if your really interested i would get an expert to go over it..

Oh Performance is in sunshine. Owner is a top bloke named James, pretty legit about his work. Ring 9364 4862 or 0418 170 234

LMAO legit? anyone can sound legit i have been riped off by this guy in the thousandsssssss and charged me for a shit load of crap if anyones going to use him pm me first if you wan know what he did to me.

his name on here is Jim - turbo rxp. Says its a trust 2.7ltr motor with 946hp at the treads but wont tell me the headwork or other bits that make it up yet expects me to pay top dollar.

Its hard to say when you don't know.

From what others have posted around here (it could all be rumour) the car came from Japan with a big motor in it.

So AUS owner wouldnt really have much of an idea about anything (potentially).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...