Jump to content
SAU Community

Catco Cat Converter

EeLeYe

By EeLeYe,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

EeLeYe Mentor

EeLeYe

Posted
Posted

Hey All,

I'm thinking of purchasing one of these new Catco cats that JustJap are selling for $175.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...ly-t244139.html

If anyone is using or has used this particular cat, could you please give some feedback on what you think of it.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244474-catco-cat-converter/
Share on other sites
__PhaseShiftDown Rising Star

__PhaseShiftDown

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm going to get one 2 just to replace my stock item. For the money, they should be alright, but I'm not expecting a huge improvement. As long as it don't give me negative gain, i'll be happy.

Also interested in other ppl's experience with them before I get one from JJ.

Edited by __PhaseShiftDown
The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

There was a post i found whilst searching for cat info about Catco Vs Magic Cat but the post just fissled out with no answers.

It started out looking like it would be informative once all the strutting was done and a test was organised but alas nothing come of it.

Then again it was about weather the cats actually converted the exhaust gas into a gas which would pass EPA.

I want one to but it must, "Be a cat not just a pipe with mesh in it"

Just Jap Racing Grand Master

Just Jap Racing

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

We are actually waiting on some specific flow data from Catco, but these are a high quality, ceramic internal high flow cat.

Catco has been around for a long time, are made in the USA, and are proven performers.

We use these particular cars in many of our street and race prepared GTR's including Darron's BNR32 which makes an easily 330awkw with the Catco 3" ceramic high flow which has been in his car for 3 years now.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Steve

Just Jap Racing Grand Master

Just Jap Racing

Posted
Posted
There was a post i found whilst searching for cat info about Catco Vs Magic Cat but the post just fissled out with no answers.

It started out looking like it would be informative once all the strutting was done and a test was organised but alas nothing come of it.

Then again it was about weather the cats actually converted the exhaust gas into a gas which would pass EPA.

I want one to but it must, "Be a cat not just a pipe with mesh in it"

Hi mate, further on this one, there is some flow comparision information including flow rates between Catco Metal cats and a couple of other market alternatives available on Catco's website - This may be of assistance to you in choosing the cat that will be best for your application.

http://www.catco.com.au/

Cheers,

Steve

wisey18 Rising Star

wisey18

Posted
Posted
it's worth noting that catco metal cats are not the $175 ones, and also are listed as "race cats" which usually means they don't meet the street legal requirements.

On the catco website it says the metal cats meet EPA requirements.

  • 2 months later...
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Hope these cats hold up, I bought a JJR $199 special ceramic cat and it dislodged itself within 6 months...

blocked up my exhaust system and left some ceramic bits of shiet in the exhaust, I took it out and bashed the internals out, wasted a good $199.

R33-RB26DETT Proficient

R33-RB26DETT

Posted
Posted
Ok great :D

Where did you get it from and how much?

Just got it from Just Jap, same one in the first post.

Hopefully its good quality, most people seem to think so, *fingers crossed*. I'll let you know how the emissions test goes.

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
Hope these cats hold up, I bought a JJR $199 special ceramic cat and it dislodged itself within 6 months...

blocked up my exhaust system and left some ceramic bits of shiet in the exhaust, I took it out and bashed the internals out, wasted a good $199.

There is no such thing as a JJR Cat.

Was it an X-Force one?

Its not hard to destroy a ceramic cat on a heavily modified/richly tuned car no matter what brand it is.

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

According to their thread in the classifieds:

PRODUCT FEATURES:

* 3" Design

* Rated at 428 CFM (Measured at 28" of Water)

* EPA Compliant

* 14" Body

* 400 Cell Core

* USA Made

* Supplied with Gaskets

* Provision for Exhaust Temp Sender

* 12 Month Warranty

catcocat.jpg

SLY-25T Mentor

SLY-25T

Posted
Posted

i must say that i wasnt happy with mine wen i bought it. installed it myself and i had an exhaust leak.

took it to my m8 who has an exhaust shop and he said he doesnt use them as theyve had problems.

he then looked at where the leak was and the flanges on the cat are thin and were warped. had to spend more money of mine just to get 2 new flanges welded onto it.

didnt notice much of a diff accel or power wise after putting it on. but i wasnt expecting to anyway.

WARLORD Veteran

WARLORD

Posted
Posted

ive got a 3'' metal one and its been in the car for 3 years it works for me,i think you pay for what you get.some jap ones like hks are $1200 so $160 one will work but i think if your tring to get every kw you can find wich may only be 5-10 kw more than get a larger cat for better flow or pay the big money.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
There is no such thing as a JJR Cat.

Was it an X-Force one?

Its not hard to destroy a ceramic cat on a heavily modified/richly tuned car no matter what brand it is.

Sorry I meant X-Force, that special JJR had on the SAU forum around 1 year ago.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...