Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got the car back and just had to hook up the overdrive light to the dash which is now complete. I had a boost leak on a metal gasket near the intercooler which sounded very very strange. I couldnt find it after a few minutes of looking and tightening every clamp, so i plugged up the intercooler pipes with a can of beer and pumped in a few psi of compressed air. Found it quick flash.

I knew beer was good for something :D

26164651.jpg

Remaining things to complete:

Put gas in the A/C

Get the centre consol panels painted/woodgrained

Put the interior back together and clean it up

Replace a broken wheel stud

Machine all discs and bleed the brakes

Align the steering wheel and full wheel alignment

New wheels and tyres

Mod plate, Safety certificate and registration

Cruise time!

  • 2 weeks later...

not even sure if anyone reads these posts, but for my own records, the list has been reduced.

Put gas in the A/C

Get the centre consol panels painted/woodgrained - WIP

Put the interior back together and clean it up - Done

Replace a broken wheel stud - Done

Machine all discs and bleed the brakes - Done

Align the steering wheel and full wheel alignment - WIP

New wheels and tyres - Done, just waiting on tyres to be fitted

Mod plate - Done

Safety certificate

Registration

New wheels are Work Euroline LS406's in 19x9 +22 and 19x10 +32. Should fit perfectly and look very VIP.

May have to add suspension work to my list though :)

post-50241-1271753572_thumb.jpg

Edited by sbyder

even more progress made today. Sick of pulling the dash cluster out to replace globes. Done it 5 times now. Seems a new bulb keeps blowing everytime, so i've replaced them all now. After playing the stereo hard for a few hours with some mates while we put the interior back together, the sub has blown itself, so now another thing to add to the to-do list.

Put gas in the A/C

Get the centre consol panels painted/woodgrained - Done - though I wrapped some peices in carbon fibre looking fabric.

Put the interior back together and clean it up - Done

Replace a broken wheel stud - Done

Machine all discs and bleed the brakes - Done

Align the steering wheel and full wheel alignment - Done

New wheels and tyres - Waiting for 1 rim to come back from re-chrome and new tyres to be fitted.

Mod plate - Done

Safety certificate

Registration

Repair blown rear subwoofer - Waiting on quotes (Nissan want +$360!)

Hey guys, im looking at maybe importing a Cedric in the near future maybe through J-spec and im wondering if anyone has any specific things i should be wary of when looking for the right car. i know the guys at j-spec have heaps of possible cars to choose from so i want to find the right one. also im looking for some advice on the whole importing process as ive never imported a car before. been doing some reading, am i being realistic if i budget say $3000 on top of a landed and complied price or and i nowhere near the right figure? also i'll probably be looking for a Cedric that already has a couple mods like wheels and suspension, maybe bodykit. would i be better off importing one like this or getting a stock one and doing the mods here?

thanks

-pete.

Hey guys, im looking at maybe importing a Cedric in the near future maybe through J-spec and im wondering if anyone has any specific things i should be wary of when looking for the right car. i know the guys at j-spec have heaps of possible cars to choose from so i want to find the right one. also im looking for some advice on the whole importing process as ive never imported a car before. been doing some reading, am i being realistic if i budget say $3000 on top of a landed and complied price or and i nowhere near the right figure? also i'll probably be looking for a Cedric that already has a couple mods like wheels and suspension, maybe bodykit. would i be better off importing one like this or getting a stock one and doing the mods here?

thanks

-pete.

Mine will be up for sale very shortly for 18K. Its a 2000 model VIP with the engine converted to the RB25DET and regular automatic. Just had some work rims installed and will be dumping the suspension in the near future. Its got a custom 3inch into 2.5inch exhaust from the turbo back which gives it a nice subtle engine tone.

If you're not interested in that, then i would be looking for a top spec leather non CVT model. Add 3K for shipping and duties, 3k for compliance and tyres and another 1.5K for rego and any taxes. If you buy a high cost car it will end up costing a bit, but you'll have an extremely unique and prestige car. My cedric owes me 25K due to the CVT blowing up and costs in converting it.

post-50241-1273476085_thumb.jpg

yeah, wouldnt have bought them until i saw them on your car. Looks hawt!

I dont think i'll need a gaurd roll as my offset may just squeeze them under when i lower it.

Drove it for 3 hours on Friday with the trade plate. I have forgotten how smooth these things drive. If it wasnt for the stereo pumping tunes i probly would have dozed off! lol

A/C is getting put in this week, then its safety cert and rego.

Might get some lowered springs for it, dunno yet.

Hey Ben,

You'll still need a gaurd roll on the front and rear lips. And mine stuck out of the guards before I put the coilovers in.

And I'm currently trying to sell my car. I'm not sure if I should give the standard screwed struts and lowered springs or not.

But make an offer and I'll sell the springs. I'm not to sure what anyone will do with the struts as they are screwed. So i guess i can sell the springs.

Its almost too expensive and difficult to convert. You'll need to convert the foot operated park brake to a normal hand brake, then you'll have to find a pedal box that will fit (custom) and a really small clutch master cylinder as its pretty tight near the firewall.

Then you'd need custom tailshaft, seriously massage the transmission tunnel to fit in a 350Z 6 speed or Navara 6 speed box with new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel. Then your diff will be the wrong ratio. Need a custom centre consol and cut a hole in the tunnel for the stick to poke out.

These cars are cruisers and not designed for heavy gear changes like in a manual.

If you want a manual 4 door, get a skyline. :D

Edited by sbyder

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...