Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Vehicle

1998 NISSAN SKYLINE R34 25GT-T

Price

$22,500

Kilometres

87,XXX

Body

2 door 4 seat COUPE

Colour

gun metal grey

Interior Colour

black

Transmission

5 speed Manual

Drive type

Rear

Engine

6 cylinder Petrol Intercooled Turbo 2.5L (2498cc)

Reg Plate

128 HUE

Reg Expiry

APR-2009

Road Worthy Certificate

Yes

*****************PRICE REDUCTION, THIS CAR MUST SELL*************

This car makes 236Kw at the wheels on 98 fuel @ 17psi... Its had alot of money spent on mods, anyone who knows anything about cars knows that the parts used in this car are top shelf, top quality products...

Mods:

HKS front mount with custom front bar

HKS 550cc injectors and fuel rail with rising rate adjustable pressure regulator.

HKS custom piller mount, boost and intercooler temp gauges.

HKS oil catch can.

Apexi Power FC commander with AVC-R boost controller.

Apexi pod filter.

Apexi turbo timer.

SARD twin trumpet blow off valve.

Jim Berry brass button racing clutch.

Nismo heavy duty engine mounts.

Splitfire coilpacks

Alarm system incorprating keyless entry and push button button start.

Turbo comes from GCG turbos in Sydney with steel compressor and ball bearings. It has custom 3 inch dump pipe with custom 3 inch mandrel bent exahust to cannon on the rear. DYNO SHEET PROVIDED !!!

18" gun metal grey rims with extra 18" full size rim for a spare.

The car has aftermarket front bar and side skirts with origianl rear bar.

whole car has been resprayed in custom gun metal grey about 18 months ago, some minor imperfections exist but there are no dents.

There are othere bits and pieces but what ive listed is the main stuff...

any inspections welcome, a test drive is a must to appreciate the performance of this car

(car has just undergone 80,000 service usung only full synthetic castrol oil, all drive belts replaced, fuel filters and spark plugs replaced, only ever run on 98 fuel, the car is designed to be run hard but was never driven hard when cold.) i welcome any mechanical inspections including compression tests and what not, the car is in perfect running order

i dont mind selling this car to another states but the buyer will be responsible for transport and ensuring that the mods are acceptable in the state it will be going to.

There is well over the asking price spent in mods alone, look around, you wont even find a stock Turbo 34 coupe for what im asking...

************* Please, no swap or trade offers, cash only, bank deposits, money orders etc ************

Name

Chris

Suburb

Bagara

State

Queensland

Post Code

4670

Email

[email protected]

post-48817-1226634096_thumb.jpg

post-48817-1226634141_thumb.jpg

post-48817-1226634244_thumb.jpg

post-48817-1226634318_thumb.jpg

post-48817-1226634376_thumb.jpg

post-48817-1226634508_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244807-r34-gtt-98-model/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I should have checked before i made original post, they are 780cc HKS injectrors, not 550cc

i am open to offers from people with a Diesel 4WD willing to swap or trade with cash adjustment... msg or call me with any enquirys

price is now $20800, i made it a bit higher for negotiation purposes but since i am in such a hurry to sell this car, this is the absoluote minimum i can go... ok, i can go as low as 20,000 but if anyone ofers me a cent less i w2ill have to say no...

I NEED TO SELL THIS CAR!!!!!

No, no accident, the paint was fresh when i bought it, the guy had just put the side skirts and front bar on, there are some minor imperfections, the front bar has some minor fatigue marks from the downforce at high speeds...

and your right, it is way too cheap, but what can i do? no one even seems keen at this price...

im on a probationary license until mid april, ive already lost my license once and had to appear in court on various occasions to keep my license, im a mechanic by trade, without a license i loose my job... the reason im selling it is nothing to do with the car, i love it, ive always wanted an r34, they are the best looking and they go like hell, im selling it becuase i really cant help myself, everytime i get in it i want to drive it the way its meant to be driven.... HARD!!! i invite anyone to come and inspect for themselves, have it checked over by whoever they want and drive it to confirm that there is nothing wrong with it...

yeah, too cheap, if you can afford to be patient, then do it. I bought mine virtually stock for 21900, so saying this is a steal is an understatement. GL with the sale mate, just hang in there, you could probably get 23-4k for it on a good day.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...