Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Na the car holds alot of memories and alot of centimental value to me. So hopefully someone can put me in contact with the person who currently has it, so hopefully I can get it back.

Edited by redevil
there is money/drugs hidden in the spare tyre :thumbsup:

You'd think, wouldn't you?

Just HOW much sentimental value is there to this car? If you did this car up with ur old man and he passed away (which I seriously hope is not the case) then i'd understand. If you lost your virginity in the car, then I might still understand...

But if it's none of the above (or at least something just as intense) and if money is no issue to getting this car back, then just buy another car and do it up the same way?

(Not trying to sound like a dick...just my thoughts...)

Well actually your pretty close, the car was my first car and it was brought for me by my dad who has no passed away, he didn't do it up with me but he did help me out when I started. So yeah the car means alot to me

Here is what was done to it, may help in locating it. As stated just want to talk to the person to hopefully come to a mutually beneficial agreement.

Engine:

Rb25det Tommy Karia edition Rebuilt by JHH

ACL race series pistons

Crower Rods

ACL race series bearings

RB26 Crank

Baffled sump

Ported and polished head

Modified oiling in the head to drain from the back

Tomei Valves and springs

Tomei Poncams

Custom adjustable cam gears

N1 oil and water pumps

Blue printed

Greddy Plenum

Trust TD06 turbo

S15 injectors 480cc

Trust 3" Exhaust with custom tips

Trust front mount intercooler

HKS mushroom filter

Body:

Do-Luck GTR front bar

D2 Front guards

Bomex side skirts

Veilside rear bar

M3 mirrors with working indicators

Rolled rear guards

Custom 2-tone paint job with cherry red pearl with zyrlex diamod pearl and Metallic black

Monkey Warehouse LED tail lights

Drivetrain and Wheels:

MV automatics Stage 2 Shift kit

Front mount Trans Coooler

Driveshafts balanced by Driveline services

Kaaz 2-way LSD

19" Axis Hiro's 8.5" Front and 10.5" Rears With Nankang tyres all around

KYB shocks front and rear

Steering rack replaced when doing rebuild

Interior:

Pioneer 6.5" In-Dash DVD player with VDP processor

Fusion 6.5" Front Splits

Fusion 6" Rear 2-ways

Fusion amp running front splits

Momo Millenium steering wheel

Impul Bucket seats (Genuine)

Turbo Smart E-Boost2

Blitz Boost gauge

Autometer Air Fuel guage

Apexi SAFC2

Full set of floor mats

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...