Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah runs real rich you can see the AFR dropping off below 10.5 Hmmm, very interesting power, thats damn good. I would like to see the boost, when I drop into SST next I might ask steve what boost the car was making. Well, it all depends on how much power you want to make. If you think the extra 30-40hp will satisfy you then for the money spent on the safc and bleed valve you cant go wrong. If you want more power, ie: going to run a bigger turbo. I'd buy an aftermarket ecu that has some sort of boost control built in, like the powerfc or the wolf3d, rather than buy a bleeder and safc2. The best we have seen on a r33 gtst with a jap remapped ecu was mrgtst with around 285hp. Basically all he had was a HKS fmic, apexi avcr with the boost up around 12psi. Also keep in mind if you want to run a bigger turbo you will also need a fmic, if you are staying with the stock dont bother with a fmic, just back off on really hot days when you hear the engine pinging or if you do any track work.

*shrug* maybe some aftermarket cams or a HKS/aftermarket turbo perhaps. But 230hp on the same dyno I was making 245hp with an ebc set to 12psi and you only had 9psi doesnt seem right :/ must be something in there, but the car is definately running very rich and the safc2 will sort that out.

I have a cheap boost gauge and dont trust it as far as I can throw it. I turned my bleed valve up 2 turns from standard which should be 9 psi by the bleed valve manafacturers specs but the guage says around 10-12 and gets huge spikes up to 14. my next investment is a descent gauge to make sure it is the gauge as said further up, it could be the bleed vavle.

R31Heaven, why dont you just borrow one to test it with, saves you paying for another one if the results are the same!!

As with the Bleeders, i have the GFB bleed valve and have only had one problem! no spikes or anything, just once after a track day, somehow it set itself up to 16psi, and only took me one look at the boost guage to see why the car was jerking and spluttering like crazy on full boost! the stock guage didn't show me anything different to normal..

this may be since the boost guages are T pieced, but that shouldn't affect a vacuum guage!!

Originally posted by Strich9ine

and NEVER rely on the stock gauge, it doesn't have the granularity that an aftermarket (read: PSI, or BAR readout) can give!

Most of you twats dont f*ckin read!

the stock gauge isn't crap. it's just not GRANULAR enough to read accurately!

but hey, if you rely on the stocker and blow your turbo then i'll be the first mofo to say "sucked in, i told you so"

Originally posted by Strich9ine

and NEVER rely on the stock gauge, it doesn't have the granularity that an aftermarket (read: PSI, or BAR readout) can give!

Most of you twats dont f*ckin read!

the stock gauge isn't crap. it's just not GRANULAR enough to read accurately!

but hey, if you rely on the stocker and blow your turbo then i'll be the first mofo to say "sucked in, i told you so"

Originally posted by Strich9ine

Most of you twats dont f*ckin read!

the stock gauge isn't crap. it's just not GRANULAR enough to read accurately!

but hey, if you rely on the stocker and blow your turbo then i'll be the first mofo to say "sucked in, i told you so"

Answer this: Have you increased the boost on your car and do you have an aftermarket guage?

There is no way I would increase the boost on my car via the factory boost guage, and anyone that is.....good luck. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...