Jump to content
SAU Community

Fitted New Front Mount

Dunno

By Dunno,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dunno Enthusiast

Dunno

Posted
Posted

Hey guys i just fitted FMIC to my r33 gtst but now when its starts comin onto boost it splutters for a bit and backfires (it makes a big bang) the only thing i could think off was the line from the wastegate that went to the standard intercooler pipe has no where to go now so i tried blocking it and it still does it can anyone help pls

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245242-fitted-new-front-mount/
Share on other sites
Dunno Enthusiast

Dunno

Posted
  • Author
Posted

its only got zorst, bov and now the fmic. ive adjusted the blow off valve its one of them turbo smart ones with the 2 trumpets.and seems better but im not 100% the police where out so i cldnt do to much and i blew one of the pipes off (scared the S#@t outta me sounded like a gun shot)

Ill take it to my mechanic 2morrow to get the nipple fitted at the moment ive blocked it does this mean that it will be +++++ boost

i also have a PFC but it hasnt been hooked up yet wld it hurt to hook that up and take it for a drive with the base map just to see what comes up?

thanks for the help :ph34r:

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted

Your spluttering would've been because one of your clamps on a join wasn't done up properly, hence why it blew off. It would've been leaking out air under pressure, thus the car is adding fuel for XX amount of air, but only X is making it to the motor....thus overfueling.

And you need that hose that goes to the actuator to have a pressure signal, cos if you don't, the wastegate won't open.....

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
Posted

Hang on a minute guys...he is talking about a line from the waste gate that has no where to go!!!

The only line I can think of on the stock waste gate which just happens to be a VERY VERY IMPORTANT one...It is the actuator feedback line!!

Dood it sounds like you are hitting airflow cut because your waste gate is just not functioning at all because it is getting zero boost feedback. This is bad!! It is NOT a tuning issue, it is a functionality issue.

Dont drive your car like this (off boost is ok only if you have too). On boost you have a fair chance stuffing your turbo because atm the boost is not controlled...

You need to plumb that line back into anywhere between you compressor outlet and your throttle body...doesn't really matter where.

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

LOL... if it's a skyline and it backfires, it must be afm/spark/leak/coil related.

I wonder if other people actually read this part of his post..

the line from the wastegate that went to the standard intercooler pipe has no where to go now so i tried blocking it and it still does it

:)

the above = unlimited boost.

Stock ECU R33 with unlimited boost = cough, splutter, backfire at about 11psi (well apart from **RB3530** - his one is a little special)

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

the above = unlimited boost.

Stock ECU R33 with unlimited boost = cough, splutter, backfire at about 11psi (well apart from **RB3530** - his one is a little special)

I think you mean cough,splutter,bang as the exhaust wheel leaves the equation

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hang on a minute guys...he is talking about a line from the waste gate that has no where to go!!!

The only line I can think of on the stock waste gate which just happens to be a VERY VERY IMPORTANT one...It is the actuator feedback line!!

Dood it sounds like you are hitting airflow cut because your waste gate is just not functioning at all because it is getting zero boost feedback. This is bad!! It is NOT a tuning issue, it is a functionality issue.

Dont drive your car like this (off boost is ok only if you have too). On boost you have a fair chance stuffing your turbo because atm the boost is not controlled...

You need to plumb that line back into anywhere between you compressor outlet and your throttle body...doesn't really matter where.

LOL... if it's a skyline and it backfires, it must be afm/spark/leak/coil related.

I wonder if other people actually read this part of his post..

:blink:

the above = unlimited boost.

Stock ECU R33 with unlimited boost = cough, splutter, backfire at about 11psi (well apart from **RB3530** - his one is a little special)

I wonder if other people actually read this part of his post..

its only got zorst, bov and now the fmic. ive adjusted the blow off valve its one of them turbo smart ones with the 2 trumpets.and seems better but im not 100% the police where out so i cldnt do to much and i blew one of the pipes off (scared the S#@t outta me sounded like a gun shot)

Ill take it to my mechanic 2morrow to get the nipple fitted at the moment ive blocked it does this mean that it will be +++++ boost

i also have a PFC but it hasnt been hooked up yet wld it hurt to hook that up and take it for a drive with the base map just to see what comes up?

thanks for the help :D

It was a boost leak because a clamp/join wasn't properly fitted, that is why the pipe blew off.

The cough splutter backfire is from overfuelling because it's not receiving all the air that was metered.

But yes, the actuator line is an important one. Get a pressure signal to it asap to avoid turbo failure.

Edited by KeyMaker
Dunno Enthusiast

Dunno

Posted
  • Author
Posted

problem solved i got a nipple put on to the intake pipe for the actuator hose to go back on apparantly without that hose the car was basically running as much boost as it could lucky i didnt i didnt thrash it :blink:

Thanks for the help guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • GTSBoy
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

×
×
  • Create New...