Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As many of you may be aware the Haltech R35 GTR Skyline had a catastrophic blow up on Friday the 24th if October. Our GTR has been running on a new platform of Haltech engine management flawlessly for over 5000km's now.

The car was being track tested at Eastern Creek raceway

(http://www.eastern-creek-raceway.com/) when the engine let go. The car had completed countless flat out laps with the engine producing 400kw at the wheels, up from 300kw at the wheels - The driver tells me it was a terrific ride!

After finishing Haltech's latest Flat shifting calibrations a few more test laps had to be carried out. With no sign of trouble the car went out and successfully completed 2 more laps before finishing up on the side of the track leaving a trail of oil and plume of smoke behind it.

It was time to put it in the trailer and go back to the workshop to pull it down. After building up enough courage our in-house mechanic removed the VR38DETT from the car and set it up on the engine stand.

A few hours later the engine was fully stripped and the damage to the engine was clear - It appears Haltech have found the limits of Nissans new super car!

The engine had met its maker.

Piston #1 and #3 had separated from their lower halves right through the center of the gudgeon pin. As the Conrod's had no piston's to guide them up and down the bore they started smashing the bore, block, oil pump, sump and anything else that got in their way.

Due to the massive damage to the block we will need to replace it. And figure it's a great time to make the engine a little stronger. We will be boring the motor out and installing Darton sleeves, replacing the factory cast pistons with a study Forged unit as well as installing a set of Billet conrods. This should allow the engine to reliably produce over 400Kw at the wheels and handle the pressure.

Keep an eye on the Haltech website or drop us an email anytime for further updates.

this is how the R&D works.

Drive it and upgrade it slowly until it let's go.

Once it lets go, research the causes and weaknesses, and built a package that will ultimately make the identified sections stronger, and allow much more power and upgrades to occur.

Once you have this package in, tested and showing potential you start selling the package, and perform the original process all over again.

As you get more and more performance mods, you add to stage 1's package until the engine blows up again.

Now you have the upper limit of stage 1, and the supporting aftermarket mods for it.

Once you rebuild the second motor, you have the base line for stage 2 under way, and you keep upgrading until you blow the motor again, and you again have the stage 2 kit, the supporting mods, and the upper limit all sussed out.

B.

drop us all a line when you get a price on the block and other parts from nissan :D

will be interesting in the coming months whats going to happen to alot of the other cars that are pushing numbers.

good luck with it anyway and also glad to see Aussies leading the way with this kind of stuff!

:)

  Angus Smart said:
...and also glad to see Aussies leading the way with this kind of stuff!

:)

Blowing cars up? :D

Just kidding. 400AWkW is quite astounding if the only thing changed was the ECU. So does that mean the car could have reliable and comfortably ran 350AWkW by changing just teh ecu without many dramas?

I have been waiting for this also. Will be interesting to see if other failures result from the same thing.

Also interested to see how much all new gear will cost to strengthen it for the next round of abuse

Hmm should chuck a 2J in there, 400rwkw on stock internals wouldn't be a problem then :P

j/k

like someone said, good time for some R&D and gives them a chance for a good footing in the modification of R35s.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...