Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, i'm on my P plates so i don't want my car decked out with a heap of mods. I just want to know whats the best part to put in my car to make it go faster. I want the best results though, i don't want a part thats not going to do barely anything. I want to be able to notice the improvement in power.

My friend had a Celica that at like 4,000 rpm's in 3rd gear it just seemed to boost forward a fair bit and he said it did the same in 5th gear. He said it had to do with the fuel injectors but he knows nothing about cars so 99% chance hes probably wrong. His was non turbo etc so yeah if theres a part that can make that happen then i want it lol.

So far i just have an exhaust system.

Also please don't spam my thread with "your on your Ps, you aren't allowed modifications" or "your not a skilled enough driver, just get handling mods like braking and suspension". I know a ton of people on the forum that have illegal mods, so by me modding my car its no different to everyone else with their illegal mods. Also i'm not going to be a dickhead in it so i don't need handling etc, i just want a bit more power.

I reckon the only single part that would mean instant gains would be a turbo, so thats out of the picture aye..

Like me your on your P's.. so i guess the only way your gonna' get noticable gains is with a few mods that compliment each other.

Pod Filter, enclosed..

Cold air intake.

Exhaust ( you already have one, but how big is it ? )

If you want more information dude, theres a sticky by EUG that goes into great detail, you just pick and choose what mods you want..

and just in case you want a lil sneak peak heres a lil peice from his write up..

" How to get more power from a naturally aspirated engine?

There are many ways to get more power; it all comes down to budget and application.

Power is defined by the rate at which work is performed over a unit of time. Used in our context, power will represent the maximum kilowatts (kW) a vehicle produces as measured on the dyno. However, the key factor in the above equation to take into consideration here is 'time', which is essential for 'response'.

Being a naturally aspirated, the motor is neither turbocharged nor supercharged. This means that the motor relies on vacuum created by the cylinders and natural atmospheric pressures to draw in ambient air for combustion.

In order to get more power you will have to rely on the basic principal of: letting the motor breath/work better, so to speak. This is done by removing the restrictions within the system and thus creating more efficiency.

Here is a basic list of what can be done, we shall elaborate on them at a later stage:

Intake (pod filter, panel filter, larger throttle body, cold air feed)

Neat Cold Air Intake

Professional Looking Heatshield

Exhaust (extractors, cat converter, cat back exhaust) "

Head over here .

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...sp-t194033.html

Have fun man!

MRXTCZ

thanks for the reference vik.

have a good read of that thread tyson. there is no ONE PART to enhance performance.

handling mods will make you go faster, it just seems like you are chasing a number.

i'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

I think the most important question you should be asking yourself is "how much am I prepared to spend?"

In terms of an NA car you need to spend some money to net a half decent gain.

You need to focus how well the air flows in and out of an NA engine.

The best gains to to be had are in cams. Have a look around the net for a set of aftermarket camshafts ($600 odd new). To get the best gains you'll also need a pair of adjustable cam gears for both the inlet and exhaust camshaft ($300 odd a pair new). Do you have a S1 or S2 R33? I can't tell from the pic. Because whether or not you have an NVCS will also influence cam gear choices. The final item to tie it all together and tune the engine is some form of engine management. Now, personally I cannot justify an entirely new ECU system for the 20-25odd KW gain your going to be getting. A simple Apexi SAFC to tune and set the engines increased demand for fuel will suit without a problem. Once all this is done, an upgrade in fuel pump is proprably a good idea too as the demans placed up the OEM pump are significantly increased and the unit is probably getting warn down after 15odd years of use and abuse - DET is cheap, easily found and is more than enough for your application. If you get this far, have a chat to your tuner as the injectors may be starting to struggle at this point too. $100 odd and you got yourself a set of second had RB25DET injectors. Cheap upgrade.

Its a relatively cheap set of modifications you can perform to gain a half decent power figure. Even with jsut 125kw your increasing engine performance by 25% which is a fair whack.

Its a place to start. From here on in things get expensive. Your looking at taking the head off, porting, polishing, increasing engine CC's, compression ratio's etc. and its bloody expensive.

Also i'm not going to be a dickhead in it so i don't need handling

It's a shame my sig is currently full of comedy gold. If it wasn't, this would have just made it.

If you wanted power without control, you should have bought a Falcodore. There's a modification for you.

Edited by scathing

i agree with Alan (scathing) that has to be up there with the stupidest comments i've ever heard.

if you want to go fast legally, improve your driver skill. i can match some gtst (and a few gtr) times around QR with purely suspension work and a bit of practice.

typical 17yr old? gives the rest of us a bad name. The power leads to handling problems, yea you might not plan on being a dickhead all the time, but what about the occasional time?

And didnt Hot4s shave a couple second off their track time in the Evo with just a wheel upgrade?

Anyway off topic, depending on how much money you have will depend on the power upgrade. NA motors are a system, to get the best out of it, the whole system needs to be upgraded. Exhaust, Cams, Injectors, etc, you will feel and hear a change for a while, but soon after, you will get used to it and want more. Keep that in mind Champ.

If i were to mod my NA there would only be a few things i would consider doing to my engine. That would be a full exhaust and a decent CAI. Anything more and you will be spending a lot of cash for little gain.

IMO if its accelaration you are after you are better off looking into other areas of your car. I would be changing my diff gears to the possible shortest ratio (I believe gts4 diffs are shorter than the rest) And using tyres of the smallest rolling diameter that you are legally allowed to run...

"I know a ton of people on the forum that have illegal mods, so by me modding my car its no different to everyone else with their illegal mods. Also i'm not going to be a dickhead in it so i don't need handling etc, i just want a bit more power"

keep up with that attitude my friend and you'll mod yerself right round the nearest tree and into the hospital.

I am from the good ole uk, so know very little of the legalities of the modding situation over there. modifing an NA (and keeping it na) isnt a one part fits all scenario..so have a shop around.

lightened flywheel - you will notice some difference

Shave the head a few thou to bump up the comp a little will help also

lower diff ratio has always been my favourite mod for gains

Cold air/ RAM air intake

Anything more than this and you start talking big work and big $

I would have recommended a bolt on Supercharger ( VT Commodore EAton M90 ) but that will need tune and many other mods so still wouldnt be cost efficient compared to a whole turbo motor swap

other than that a tune maybe ?

ok as every ones being saying exhasut, CAI, cams,.

ill give you my sotry.

R31 skyline RB30E

started with 70RWKW with only a 2.25' exhaust

after nistune ecu, custom crow cam, exstractors, k&n pod. all tuned i had 118.6RWKW.

cost of about $3500 due to getting some parts cheeper.

www.nistune.com to find out more only cost $250

I think the most important question you should be asking yourself is "how much am I prepared to spend?"

In terms of an NA car you need to spend some money to net a half decent gain.

You need to focus how well the air flows in and out of an NA engine.

The best gains to to be had are in cams. Have a look around the net for a set of aftermarket camshafts ($600 odd new). To get the best gains you'll also need a pair of adjustable cam gears for both the inlet and exhaust camshaft ($300 odd a pair new). Do you have a S1 or S2 R33? I can't tell from the pic. Because whether or not you have an NVCS will also influence cam gear choices. The final item to tie it all together and tune the engine is some form of engine management. Now, personally I cannot justify an entirely new ECU system for the 20-25odd KW gain your going to be getting. A simple Apexi SAFC to tune and set the engines increased demand for fuel will suit without a problem. Once all this is done, an upgrade in fuel pump is proprably a good idea too as the demans placed up the OEM pump are significantly increased and the unit is probably getting warn down after 15odd years of use and abuse - DET is cheap, easily found and is more than enough for your application. If you get this far, have a chat to your tuner as the injectors may be starting to struggle at this point too. $100 odd and you got yourself a set of second had RB25DET injectors. Cheap upgrade.

Its a relatively cheap set of modifications you can perform to gain a half decent power figure. Even with jsut 125kw your increasing engine performance by 25% which is a fair whack.

Its a place to start. From here on in things get expensive. Your looking at taking the head off, porting, polishing, increasing engine CC's, compression ratio's etc. and its bloody expensive.

Thanks, i don't really want to be spending a whole lot on my car since i mainly only want it till i'm on my opens or a year or two after so that i can then buy a turbo, hopefully a R34 GTR. What's an Apexi SAFC tune and how much does that cost? Also i think i see injectors being sold a fair bit on this site, you need like a set of 6 or something don't you? I always look at the parts for sale to try to learn more about what does what. Also what is a DET?

Thanks for all that, that doesn't look too expensive which is good. Oh and i have a Series 1 R33.

If i were to mod my NA there would only be a few things i would consider doing to my engine. That would be a full exhaust and a decent CAI. Anything more and you will be spending a lot of cash for little gain.

IMO if its accelaration you are after you are better off looking into other areas of your car. I would be changing my diff gears to the possible shortest ratio (I believe gts4 diffs are shorter than the rest) And using tyres of the smallest rolling diameter that you are legally allowed to run...

Thanks, whats a CAI? Also how would i change my diff gears and would making them shorter have any negative effects?

I've read the sticky regarding performance but didn't really understand everything thats all.

To all those saying i sound like a dickhead etc, i've already got good handling. I don't go fast around corners, i don't take my car to the track or anything. The only reason i want more power is just for accelerating basicly in a straight line. I'm not wanting more power so i can get out of corners real quick or anything since yeah that'd be stupid. Going in a straight line doesn't require the best of the best handling.

Thanks, whats a CAI? Also how would i change my diff gears and would making them shorter have any negative effects?

CAI = Cold air induction

The only negative affect you get from putting in shorter diff gears is that you car sits on a higher rpm at any given speed. It will really only make a difference to fuel economy if you spend a lot of time on the highway.

And it will only be worse on fuel on the highway. from my experience dropping diff ratios actually improved economy in normal stop start driving conditions. There are a lot of wives tales about dropping diff ratios usually told by know it all old guys... Crap such as " It will get off the mark faster but its got no top end acceleration " Well from my experience thats crap....You will feel gains at every speed.

As for having no top end ? I found that I had a lot more top end acceleration.I wouldnt worry too much about it revving harder as you got an overdrive gear already.. If it only revved 500 rpm harder on the freeway for the same given speed then thats quite acceptable. But the difference in acceleration you would be much happier with.. Go to a diff specialist and see what they quote you. Dont let some hack mechanic do it as if its not set up correctly you will have the annoying howl coming from it...not good

Also what is a DET?

DET is short for the RB25DET, which is what GTSts have. basically, you have a DE, non turbo, hence T stands for turbo :P

D= Dual Overhead Cams

E= EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection)

T= Turbo

and for the record, i think handling mods, even cheap ones like sway bars and strut braces, are a good investment no matter what power levels you have

Edited by G0DZLR

If your not planning to have it that long then I wouldnt even recommend doing too much to it.

instead of spending bout $1000-$1300 on cams and gears, use that on your next turbo car..(I picked these mods because u already have a full exhaust they are the next best thing to do for power)

also... people are probably going to have mixed opinions about what I say next, but I have read this in a few magazines about skylines....

went something along the lines of:

"Skylines are a supurb car to drive for performance and handling, however there are quicker cars that go in a straight line, but they are one of the toughest competitors around a track."

Not saying obveously you can make them go faster in a straight line, but it takes mods and money to do so... stuff that at the moment I imagine arent flying at you(im a p plater too)...

so definetly do try a cold air intake and a heatsheild, but you'll be spending a decent amount of money to notice any type of gains from an n/a...

one final thing... personally, I would recommend doing cam gears for now, I did it to my car last week and noticed a heap of difference in response and torque, which from the sounds of it, you are after aswell.

Adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or just wire a multimeter in, sit it up like it's a gauge, go for a drive, read temp gauge, read multimeter, speak to phone and tell it to take notes.
    • This is the other log file, if only we had exhaust manifold pressure - would understand what's going on a bit better   Can you take a screenshot of your wastegate setup in the Kebabtech?   Engine Functions --> Boost Control (looks like this):  
    • You just need a datalogger of some sort. A handheld oscilloscope could do it, because it will make the trace visible on screen, so you can look at the peak, or whatever you need to look at. And there are cheap USB voltage loggers available too. You could get a 2 channel one and press a button to feed voltage to the second channel at points that you want to check the sensor voltage, when you knew what the guage was saying, for example.
    • it's not the issue with making power, it's the issue with controlling boost, and this isn't the first time I've seen a 6Boost having issue with controlling boost down low.   The boost control here looks interesting.   Looking at your logs, looks like it's set to open loop boost control strategy (which is fine). We can see VCT being kept on till about 6600RPM (no issue with that). Ignition timing (I'm assuming this is E85, seems within reason too, nothing too low, causing hot EGTS and boost spiking). There's about 15 degrees of advance when your boost shoots up, however can't be this as the timing isn't single digits. I'm assuming there's no EMAP data, as I wasn't able to find it in the logs. We can see your tuner sets the WG DC to 0% after 4300RPM, trying to control boost.   My thoughts, what frequency is your wastegate set to?  AND why aren't you using both ports for better control?
    • While that sounds reasonable, this is definitely a boost control problem, but the real question is why are you having the boost control problem? Which is why I pondered the idea that there's a problem at ~4000rpm related to head flow. In that instance, you are not yet under boost control - it's still ramping up and the wastegate is yet to gain authority. So, I'm thinking that if the wastegate is not yet open enough to execute control, but the compressor has somehow managed ot make a lot of flow, and the intake side of the head doesn't flow as well as the exhaust side (more on that later), then presto, high MAP (read that as boost overshoot). I have a number of further thoughts. I use butterfly valves in industrial applications ALL THE TIME. They have a very non-linear flow curve. That is to say that there is a linear-ish region in the middle of their opening range, where a 1% change in opening will cause a reasonably similar change in flow rate, from one place to another. So, maybe between 30% open and 60% open, that 1% change in opening gives you a similar 2% change in flow. (That 2% is pulled out of my bum, and is 2% of the maximum flow capacity of the valve, not 2% of the flow that happens to be going through the valve at that moment). That means that at 30% open, a 1% change in opening will give you a larger relative flow increase (relative to the flow going through the valve right then) compared to the same increment in opening giving you the same increment in flow in outright flow units. But at 60% opening, that extra 2% of max flow is relatively less than 1/2 the increase at 30% opening. Does that make sense? It doesn't matter if it doesn't because it's not the main point anyway. Below and above the linear-ish range in the middle, the opening-flow curve becomes quite...curved. Here's a typical butterfy valve flow curve. Note that there is a very low slope at the bottom end, quite steep linear-ish slope in the middle, then it rolls off to a low slope at the top. This curve shows the "gain" that you get from a butterfly valve as a function of opening%. Note the massive spike in the curve at 30%. That's the point I was making above that could be hard to understand. So here's the point I'm trying to make. I don't know if a butterfly valve is actually a good candiate for a wastegate. A poppet valve of some sort has a very linear flow curve as a function of opening %. It can't be anyelse but linear. It moves linearly and the flow area increases linearly with opening %. I can't find a useful enough CV curve for a poppet valve that you could compare against the one I showed for the butterfly, but you can pretty much imagine that it will not have that lazy, slow increase in flow as it comes off the seat. It will start flowing straight away and increase flow very noticeably with every increase in opening%. So, in your application, you're coming up onto boost, the wastegate is closed. Boost ramps up quite quickly, because that's really what we want, and all of a sudden it is approaching target boost and the thing needs to open. So it starts opening, and ... bugger all flow. And it opens some more, and bugger all more flow. And all the while time is passing, boost is overshooting further, and then finally the WG opens to the point where the curve starts to slope upwards and it gains authority amd the overshoot is brought under control and goes away, but now the bloody thing is too open and it has to go back the other way and that's hy you get that bathtub curve in your boost plot. My position here is that the straight gate is perhaps not teh good idea it looks like. It might work fine in some cases, and it might struggle in others. Now, back to the head flow. I worry that the pissy little NA Neo inlet ports, coupled with the not-very-aggressive Neo turbo cam, mean that the inlet side is simply not matched to the slightly ported exhaust side coupled with somewhat longer duration cam. And that is not even beginning to address the possibility that the overlap/relative timing of those two mismatched cams might make that all the worse at around 4000rpm, and not be quite so bad at high rpm. I would be dropping in at least a 260 cam in the inlet, if not larger, see what happens. I'd also be thinking very hard about pulling the straight gate off, banging a normal gate on there and letting it vent to the wild, just as an experiment.
×
×
  • Create New...