Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)


Recommended Posts

haha thought that might stir you up...

mine went 574 @ 24psi thank you very much!!!

plus it also went 560rwhp at 20psi but yoda backed off timing so it was nice and safe :)

brockas should make anywhere between 560-600rwhp i would imagine, hopefully 573.9 so I can give him shit for years to come :banana:

i know you were stirring, i dont think ive seen a non-stirring post from you yet. :)

Yer i agree on brockas figures, he has pretty big cams so that should help alot, i think he has no port work on the head at all from memory? im thinking 575hp on the roller and 625hp or so on the hubber.

Im keen on those precision turbos mentioned, they seem pretty good from what ive read up but cant find prices anywhere and any real solid info on them, like are they watercooled and ballbearing, t4 flanged, twin scroll?

Edited by unique1
270 it is then. .1L shouldnt make a huge difference anyways.

It's not even 0.1L

RB26 isn't a true 2600cc. It is less.

IIRC its about 70cc difference RB25 to RB26

Have any of you guys running rb26's in your gtr with either to4z or GT35r got upgraded valves/springs etc in your top end or what have you had to do besides cams in the top end?

just wondering how a stock head will go on a built bottom end with say a GT35R? interested in this thread, coz im tossing up which way to go down the track a bit.

You can get the Billet Turbos in Journal or Ball Bearing. Wide variety of T3 and T4 exhaust housings are available. There are different compressor housing options as well. About 1000$ for the Journal version and 1400$ for the Ball Bearing version i think. Contact a turbo destributor and ask about the Precision Billet 6765. There are a couple being sold on ebay as well.

Have any of you guys running rb26's in your gtr with either to4z or GT35r got upgraded valves/springs etc in your top end or what have you had to do besides cams in the top end?

just wondering how a stock head will go on a built bottom end with say a GT35R? interested in this thread, coz im tossing up which way to go down the track a bit.

Stock head, with the only work done for clearance of the 10.8mm cams, and upgraded springs.

Valves are standard.

Stock head, with the only work done for clearance of the 10.8mm cams, and upgraded springs.

Valves are standard.

ok. thanks, interesting to know what others have done etc for there set ups, gives others a chance to compare and see where the best place to spend your cash is in an engine build up process.

^ plenty of guys running @ 380-400rwkw, factory valves/cams and bit of a tidy up.

More depends on the condition of the head to begin with really, one person might be fine, you might not and vice versa

^ plenty of guys running @ 380-400rwkw, factory valves/cams and bit of a tidy up.

More depends on the condition of the head to begin with really, one person might be fine, you might not and vice versa

yeah totally agree. i would get the head fully rebuilt when it goes back on once i do the engine, just to make sure everything is going to run smoothly.

also what manifolds are people running? has this has much of an affect also? in the future im looking at maybe a GT35R on highmount manifold (most likely 6boost) just slowly planning it all first and what parts i need to aquire.

Car run in..

Getting tuned end of this week/ next week ...

Will post results..

Built 26... garrett .84 t04z

Been a long wait... good luck!

  • 2 weeks later...
I'm about to bolt on a T04Z with .81 rear housing, so we will have a direct comparison, on the same dyno with the same engine, between a GT35R and T04Z.

Should be finished by next week.

any results on this?

Was just about to post here.

No results just yet.

As it needs a complete retune anyway, we've taken the opportunity to install a Power FC d-jetro, and get rid of the AFM's.

Unfortunately, this makes it no longer a 'bolt off bolt on' situation, but the lack of AFM's shouldn't really effect top end much, just driveability.

Power FC arrives next week, hopefully tuned on Thursday/Friday.

has anyone had both these set-ups on a car before or seen them on cars. im looking at the exact same problem.. cant choose which one

has anyone had both these set-ups on a car before or seen them on cars. im looking at the exact same problem.. cant choose which one

Give me a week...

*prays to the gods

573.9

573.9

573.9

Scali's using Natalotto's map as a base for mine, so here's hoping I smash your figure haha

Edited by Brockas
  • 2 weeks later...
Was just about to post here.

No results just yet.

As it needs a complete retune anyway, we've taken the opportunity to install a Power FC d-jetro, and get rid of the AFM's.

Unfortunately, this makes it no longer a 'bolt off bolt on' situation, but the lack of AFM's shouldn't really effect top end much, just driveability.

Power FC arrives next week, hopefully tuned on Thursday/Friday.

Hows the results for this coming along?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...