Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mate has a r32 with a rb20 running some decent mods and hits 212rwkw on an extremely safe tune. He wastes all stocko commodores and Monaros the new R8s everything in stock form. I am running a almost stock rb25 and am pushing around 188rwkw and i beat a 270rwkw worked na VX clubby. Smashed him by bout 1.2 seconds on the strip. From start to finish i left him he could not reel me in. It all comes down to your driving style. Though the shit your saying bout your car it seems with a smaller turbo making 20ish less KW you wont notice the difererence if the tune is right.

I would take usable power over top end hp any time.

  • Replies 131
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

some food for thought. A VE HSV Maloo R8 Ute (317kw) has around 220kw at the wheels and weighs 1700kg..

but once they start purchasing twin turbo kits, we're all in trouble :P

http://ls1turbo.com.au/au/ve_genttbb.html

220rwkw but with massive torque and huge area under the curve...you're still screwed...and if they're modded...you're doubly screwed...

I ran 237rwkw in my old 32 and unless i was really trying (proper launch and warm tyres) i'd be eaten just about every time on the street...i'd hit boost and light the tyres up (proper tyres too) and its all over...on the strip though its different as the car runs 12s and has shocked a few of the bigger boys...

yep i hear ya all i havent got the launch down pat yet thats why they are one up on me off the line

hopefully with that lower down torque on my new turbo i might be able to launch more reasonably

though i really liked the wheel spin right through second gear occasionally sounds bloody awsome with the screamer pipe

I am running a almost stock rb25 and am pushing around 188rwkw and i beat a 270rwkw worked na VX clubby. Smashed him by bout 1.2 seconds on the strip. From start to finish i left him he could not reel me in. It all comes down to your driving style.

Did he miss multiple gears, have 185 tyres on and spun the whole track, not know how to drive, blew a clutch, have it in reverse or what? A LS1 pushing that much power would smoke a 188rwkw skyline any day of the week even with a crap launch, so obviously there is more to the story. A VX clubby does a quarter in about 14 seconds give or take with variables. A stock RB25 does it in about 14-14.5, lets say one with 188rwkw does a 13.5 for arguments sake, once again give or take. You beat a 270rwkw clubby by 1.2seconds...... So his 270rwkw clubby is slower than a stock clubby?

Once again i ask, what's the rest of the story?

Edited by PM-R33
Did he miss multiple gears, have 185 tyres on and spun the whole track, not know how to drive, blew a clutch, have it in reverse or what? A LS1 pushing that much power would smoke a 188rwkw skyline any day of the week even with a crap launch, so obviously there is more to the story. A VX clubby does a quarter in about 14 seconds give or take with variables. A stock RB25 does it in about 14-14.5, lets say one with 188rwkw does a 13.5 for arguments sake, once again give or take. You beat a 270rwkw clubby by 1.2seconds...... So his 270rwkw clubby is slower than a stock clubby?

Once again i ask, what's the rest of the story?

the driver was an 88 year old granny? :laugh:

this statement though....

"A VE HSV Maloo R8 Ute (317kw) has around 220kw at the wheels and weighs 1700kg"

Really??? they loose that much through the gearbox/drivetrain/etc? I thought they were meant to be like the super ute....

you really shouldnt have any trouble beating them.

im running an rb20 in a 180sx, when the motor was almost standard it was level pegging with a hsv R8.

now im running a 3071r and step 1 cams badly tuned and its still alot quicker then it was

Yeah my old RB20 S13 was only lightly modified; exhaust, intake, FMIC ,remap and had no trouble keeping up with CV8's and the like.

You could burn them on the launch aswell..

If you are going 3071 you should still be around 230-240rwkws which will make for a quick/fun car. Is it quicker then late model V8s? Who knows.

My best time at the strip was with 14psi (approx 220rwkws) as at the time my std coils introduced a miss with any more boost. At the time i couldnt launch a car to save me (actually, that is still true) i have run a 12.9 @113mph with a 2.2 60 ft time. Get that to a 2.0sec 60ft time and better shifts with your sort of power you should be able to run 12.5 or better.

So the question is will a late model V8 do a 12.5 or better? Plenty probably can but the way the little 20 with a 3071 will deliver its power it will feel plenty quick and be fun to drive...unless you want to spend major money that has to be enough :laugh: if the rest of your car is sorted then 230-250rwkws in an R32 can do quite a lot :wub:

Very interesting thread.

I once raced a brand new sv6 holden, they push around 190kw. I had a bad case of misfire where it wud misfire over 5k. and i was only boosting 5psi and the oil hadnt been changed for at least 15000ks. Was a bit stupid of me tho. Didnt launch it and kept up with it all the way till around 140 when had to slow down.

When i had it serviced and had the misfire sorted, raced an FPV pursuit 290kw from 0-150k and kept up with it no sweat, but then i still have a boost creep issue! DOH!!!

Now i pretty much have it sorted. Waiting for another punter to line me up at the lights. Im only pusing around 190rwkw atm and running 7-8psi.

the driver was an 88 year old granny? :P

this statement though....

"A VE HSV Maloo R8 Ute (317kw) has around 220kw at the wheels and weighs 1700kg"

Really??? they loose that much through the gearbox/drivetrain/etc? I thought they were meant to be like the super ute....

This is where i got the number from;

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=94376

On the dyno the HSV Maloo got down and pumped out 225rwkw in the steaming conditions which isnt too bad for a tight new car, and something that we can readily aim to try and double with the fitment of a Gen-TT VE BB Intercooled Twin Turbocharger system

turbo that has just been taken off has done 7000km its a gt3082r / gt3040 anyone wanna buy it by the way asking 1500 atm serial 700177 - 5014

new turbo going on today/tomorrow is a 3071r/3076r unsure of exactly what it is only cause its custom built / modified for my car serial 700177 - 5018

Roy it just must be how hard the bigger turbo's are to launch im sure we can both drive fine...

except when boost comes on hahahaha

My car doesnt really make enough boost in 1st gear to spin the tyres. This is on a slippery skid pan and you can see it doesnt exactly fry tyres. I only leave th eline at about 4,0000rpm with little clutch slippage so to try and get some life out of the clutch and gearbox

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=axjx18jAQ4g&...feature=channel

But you can see, its not that crazy when it hits....thats about the same sort of launch i did for the 12.9 so with a bit less respect for the drivetrain could probably get it off the line better. Rear end alignment make a big difference to power down

the only advantage the mildly modded r32 or r33 gtst will have over the hsv's is the weight factor.

example. 300rwk hsv would be very similiar to a 230 rwk r33 gtst.

But these days the 6.0 lt hsv's are pushing 340-360rwk modded.

Your gtst will need close to 300rwk to be on par.

Gtst's are known to have a very short 1st gear. U screw that up the Hsv's rape ya.

On an r32 gtst you'd probably need 210-220rwk for the same result.

Against a stock ls2 that should be more than enough power to own em. But alot arent stock....

Edited by R33GOD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...