Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 131
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

have any of u driven a the new 6 lt comodore?

a mate has the brand new maloo ute.

he kept raving about it so i jumped at the chance when he offered me a drive.

6 speed manual 300 and whatever kws at the engine, exhaust etc , and i was most disapointed.

it would pull a 30 foot yaught up a big ass hill at 2000rpm but it just didnt want to rev.

felt more like a turbo diesel to me.

at the end of the day australian v8's arent built to go quick they are a zippy family car and that about it cos they are far to heavy.

my rbo 20 pulled 150rwkw which is f*k all really and i havent had any get away from me.

dont no about the new ones havent really been near any but hold some hope for v8s of the future as they were able to pry themselves away from the primitive idea of push rods and single cam. for the record i hate v8's but if they were smart enough to turbo or supercharge there v8s then different story N/A isnt the greatest concept for going quick.

i dont no many v8's that are going to beat a 32 lightest of all skylines that have 220 rwkw.

i pay the man with the comment atleast your not driving a holden:):unsure::)

Did he miss multiple gears, have 185 tyres on and spun the whole track, not know how to drive, blew a clutch, have it in reverse or what? A LS1 pushing that much power would smoke a 188rwkw skyline any day of the week even with a crap launch, so obviously there is more to the story. A VX clubby does a quarter in about 14 seconds give or take with variables. A stock RB25 does it in about 14-14.5, lets say one with 188rwkw does a 13.5 for arguments sake, once again give or take. You beat a 270rwkw clubby by 1.2seconds...... So his 270rwkw clubby is slower than a stock clubby?

Once again i ask, what's the rest of the story?

That proves to me you cant drive. A mate with one in his VL is running 180rwkw and ran a 12.3 on slicks. runs 12.7 on street tyres dude. He has a clean run and he was the one that cam up to me after and asked what the f**k i was running as he was waiting to slap me. I got a clean run and ran a 13.1 @ 106mph.

umm I dont know what sort of LS1's some of you have been driving, cause they must have been near dead or something.

I hopped in my mates VX SS with twin 2.5 exhaust and LS1Edit and it dosen't really powerband until around 4000rpm, which is reached surprisingly quickly!

The old 5 litre dosen't like to rev much though (at least in a stock or near stock form)

i was racing (yeh i know irresponsible) but thats what this thread is about. being irresponsible on the street against holdens

i was playing one day with the latest holden monaro GTO (the 6 litre) had the 307kw sticker on the back. ill admit the thing did look nice and honestly this thing was so loud i could not hear my car at all !!!! and my car is pretty loud. obviously he had done his exhaust extractors god knows what else. and when we both gave it a genuine hit rolling at about 30k/hr there was nothing in it. we were dead neck to neck. and i knew from that screaming V8 he was giving it his all. and so was i. and this was before my Toshi remap. they are no way as quick as what people think.

whoops forgot to add my car is R33 but hey another hit for the skylines

Edited by DrewII
That proves to me you cant drive. A mate with one in his VL is running 180rwkw and ran a 12.3 on slicks. runs 12.7 on street tyres dude. He has a clean run and he was the one that cam up to me after and asked what the f**k i was running as he was waiting to slap me. I got a clean run and ran a 13.1 @ 106mph.

Where did i ever mention my driving? I stated FACTS about the rough times these cars run down the drags in stock form or with slight work done to them. So your comment about my driving is completely irrelevant. I said a RB25 with 188rwkw roughly runs a 13.5 and it does. Is your RB25 in a R33 or is in in a S13, however your sig says its an RB20 so which one is it?

Ok so you ran a 13.1, congrats, you said you beat the VX clubby by 1.2 seconds, therefore it ran a 14.3 correct? Once again i ask, whats the rest of the story since a standard VX clubby will run that, not a 270rwkw one......

You are honestly wondering why i think your story is bullshit?

Edited by PM-R33
Where did i ever mention my driving? I stated FACTS about the rough times these cars run down the drags in stock form or with slight work done to them. So your comment about my driving is completely irrelevant. I said a RB25 with 188rwkw roughly runs a 13.5 and it does. Is your RB25 in a R33 or is in in a S13, however your sig says its an RB20 so which one is it?

Ok so you ran a 13.1, congrats, you said you beat the VX clubby by 1.2 seconds, therefore it ran a 14.3 correct? Once again i ask, whats the rest of the story since a standard VX clubby will run that, not a 270rwkw one......

You are honestly wondering why i think your story is bullshit?

My car is now a r32 with a 25det in it. Pretty stock with only 189.7rwkw. I honestly say i keep up if not beat any V8 i have raced up here. I like all cars but i have not been beaten by one yet.

The vl ran a MPH 108 and 60ft of 2.1 i believe. That was with slicks and a et of 12.3

The pink VL is the one i am talking about.

That white ss ute he is racing i believe would be a ls1 yeah. Correct me if i am wrong as i dont know much bout them. The ute is a fellow names Brad Stott. He has cams a remap and full exhaust. Look how much he gets slapped by and i pretty sure there both running slicks. The VL is pushing 180rwkw.

the vl is also a auto.

so would be reading higher power if it was a manual.

but i agree ls1 ls2 's are shit.

jap technology has been around for near on 20 yrs, yet aus keeps producing this heavy underpowered garbage.

why have imports become so popular? because the amount of car you get for your money simply cant be matched in aus.

i for one would never buy another aussie car. (4x4 excluded as japanese dont really use them.)

look at were ford is heading with the xr6

its about time they got rid of the "found on rubbish dump" attitude that most people over 30 have of them.

the old ea falcon etc were an absolute discrace to ford, and should never have been produced with a made in australia claim.

surely we can make something better then that.

holden flirted with the jap tech with the vl and for the life of me i cant see what positives they gained by canning it.

they had a light family car that went well. why stop making them.

especially when you watch that vid above showing a 88 model car easily beating 20 yrs of holdens technology.

what a joke.

holden used that motor out of desperation....

they simply could not update the old 202 any further and it was WAAAAY underpowered and thirsty.

they then developed their own "australian" motor *cougbuickcough*

and borrowing an american motor is ok cause its a v8 and that aparently makes everything ok....

You have to remember how heavy all of these new commodores/falcons are. You chuck a LS1/LS2 into a lighter car like a S13 and it definetely won't feal boring. Youtube "RX7 LS1" and watch how quick those things are even in basic stock form.

At the end of the day, technology means weight, simple as that. Perfect example the R35. Today's demands with 100 airbags, electronics superior to that of some home computers, zoned climate control, electric seats with 100 different motors, stereo systems with 30 speakers etc makes it very difficult to build a car targeted to a majority of people (families, work vehicles, towing etc) that is still going to be under 1400kg.

You have to remember how heavy all of these new commodores/falcons are. You chuck a LS1/LS2 into a lighter car like a S13 and it definetely won't feal boring. Youtube "RX7 LS1" and watch how quick those things are even in basic stock form.

At the end of the day, technology means weight, simple as that. Perfect example the R35. Today's demands with 100 airbags, electronics superior to that of some home computers, zoned climate control, electric seats with 100 different motors, stereo systems with 30 speakers etc makes it very difficult to build a car targeted to a majority of people (families, work vehicles, towing etc) that is still going to be under 1400kg.

I agree with this. A mate of mine has a VX i think it is. A clubby with over 500rwkw fully worked with a 3.3lt Whipple. He is running low 11's yet another guy up in Darwin runs 11.7 with under 500hp in his gtr. The commo weighs in at a massive 2100kg yet my skyline is about 1400 i think. Not confirmed yet but still the power to weight is crazy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...