Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im looking at buying a stagea and i was thinking of putting a r33 or r34 front on

but i cant seem to find anything on it has anyone done it in sydney and how much did it set ya back

i remember seeing one ages ago like 2-3 years ago on parra rd so can ya help me out

any pics will help make my mind up hehe

thanks guys steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246556-skyline-front-bars-on-stageas/
Share on other sites

I have seen an R33-fronted Stagea done once, but I think it was a custom job for some workshop in Japan

If you want an "easy" solution, MASA motorsports in Japan make a kit for the R34 front end, and this is one you've most likely seen around. It's far from cheap though, especially with the way our $Au is compared to the Japanese Yen.

There might be someone doing a copy of the kit around Australia, but I'm not sure. There was talk of it happening, but whether they actually went through with it I don't know. Probably the person to ask would be Darrin, I think he actually has his R34-fronted Stagea for sale at the moment. His username is "darrinspencer" and I'm sure he'll pop along and contribute to answering your question soon enough.

i'm 99% sure that dave from viva garage down here does fibreglass conversion guards for r34 front end, he has done it to his car also

and goldzilla, the 33 fronted stagea you are speaking of, i have a suspicion that you're thinking of the r33 (can't remember if it was a coupe or sedan though) that they tuned into a wagon with a custom rear box section?

and goldzilla, the 33 fronted stagea you are speaking of, i have a suspicion that you're thinking of the r33 (can't remember if it was a coupe or sedan though) that they tuned into a wagon with a custom rear box section?

I do know of that one too, Mike, but I'm pretty sure I have seen one that's actually a Stagea with R33 front grafted on.

Brycey in Newcastle had one done by CCubed Performance I think it was, down here somewhere in Sydney. He's since sold it on to another SAU forum member, and pictures of it are in the "Post a Pic of your Stagea" thread.

I do know of that one too, Mike, but I'm pretty sure I have seen one that's actually a Stagea with R33 front grafted on.

Brycey in Newcastle had one done by CCubed Performance I think it was, down here somewhere in Sydney. He's since sold it on to another SAU forum member, and pictures of it are in the "Post a Pic of your Stagea" thread.

There are two for sale in NZ at the moment ...probably too expensive to import but you can look at the photos...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-189924952.htm

and

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-188931521.htm

I do know of that one too, Mike, but I'm pretty sure I have seen one that's actually a Stagea with R33 front grafted on.

that would look.. interesting? haha

any idea where you saw it? i'm quite intriqued now

R34 front is the way to go. I have done my car myself and had to learn the hard way. The best and easest option if you want to do it is to talk to Andrew from CCubed. He has developed a full kit for ease of installation and speed with little mods to the original car. Not sure of his prices, but generally budget for approx $4000-4500 for parts and then add approx $2000 for labour and painting if you can not do it yourself.

My car is still to be painted, but I am thinking of selling it once it is completed.

If you are interested, it is a series 2 converted to manual, silver, R34 GTR wheels, teins, exhaust, fmic, apexi BB turbo, full body kit etc etc. Pm me for more details and price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...