Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guy's,

I have a r32 gts-t and Ive been trying to fing out which would be a great turbo for the rb20, something thats responsive although still good on top end.

I thought of getting a hks 2540 although my budget does not stretch that far :)

Then I found out about the garrett gt28 thats basically half the price and said to be a similar turbo anyway. Apparently its rated at 400-450hp.

Does anyone know anything bout this turbo?

Also does it work any good with the rb20?

Thanks ;)

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24678-garrett-gt28/
Share on other sites

Thats cool man, you can see it on this site-

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/cat...ategory26_1.htm

Also you can see there are two gt28's one has a larger exhaust housing so its rated at 450hp instead of 400hp :)

They also run internal wastegates so I think there wouldn't be much to fitting, then I dont know that much :D

At least you wouldnt have to screw round wit gettin an external gate fitted.

On the web site the price is just over $2000

:)

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24678-garrett-gt28/#findComment-525763
Share on other sites

just get a HKS2530 very responsive, and you can get a good one for about $1500 second hand all you have to modify is oil feed, water feed and water drain. get one of those silicon bends from the compressor to intercooler pipe and you are done will pull up to 340hp on an RB20.

super responsive and a sh$%load more top end.

the GT28 series on there are also T25 flanges - the RB20/25 use a T3 flange

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24678-garrett-gt28/#findComment-526262
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

Bump!!

Need info on a good Turbo for Rb20det's is the standard flange on a 32 skyline a t3? wats the best bang for ur buck is it the GT2530 ? or do u think something for around 400hp be unrealistic? aand if so wat lag would u get ? if much at all..

note: Long time browser not a poster in this fourms as im building my car and dont have a start on it yet lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24678-garrett-gt28/#findComment-922196
Share on other sites

From what i've heard and seen

HKS 2510 - spools faster,less top end

HKS 2530 - spools pretty damn good and good top end (allrounder)

HKS 2540 - spools later on 4500+rpm and great top end and works well with cams (good for track use)

this is all on a rb20det and all relative to each other, i'm sure u could find a greddy and apexi aswell

feel free to correct me :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24678-garrett-gt28/#findComment-922470
Share on other sites

I recently purchased the 400hp version of the gt28. You need an adapter plate made up to go to the t3 flange, and you also need to bear in mind your standard dump pipe wont fit as its a 6 bolt pattern and the garret is 5.

But Morrie from hpinabox has been so bloody helpful to me, I'd recommend him to anyone. Knows what he is doing, and the adapter plate is very well made.

Haven't been able to test the turbo, as engine is being rebuilt atm, but yes it has a 4" bellmouth inlet. And also bear in the mind the wastegate spring is rated at 11.8 pound.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24678-garrett-gt28/#findComment-922609
Share on other sites

Im looking for street/strip use for my car . so i rekon an uneducated guess for best turbo setup on an RB20DET would be gt2530 garret highflow ? Also i am thinking of doin the rebuild for the RB20 since im an Exv8 head at heart internals are my main stay of an engine still :( is it viable to do a full rebuild for the amount of extra HP u get outa it ? assuming ur running a say 2.1jun stroker kit forged pistons with a gt2530 turbo . What is the comparison to that and the standard 2 litre with just the turbo and intercooler?

I am seriously thinking about putting NOS on the RB20det thats why i sorta want forgeys but 100+hp is alot im thinking i wont need a boost that big with NOS. maybe just stick with the standard internals run a 50hp jet nos system and gt2530 turbo?

Is this a realistic goal ?

I just need some feedback from owners of RB20det's or wise know alls to lemme know ,has any1 done this setup before? and wat power gains do u think are achievable. Preferably i am lookin at about 400HP at the RW .. but ill be happy with 300hp RW with standard internals and no NOS and just the big turbo kit.

Yer so theres alot more into it then wat i said i know that :cheers: just give me a ruffy and ill work with it... Ive found these fourms to be a wealth of knowledge and im confident someone out there has done something like this ...

Or would it be better of just wacking in the RB25det and using that as a benchmark block?

I know most ppl will say GO BIGGER but how easy it that ... If i wanted to go bigger i woulda just got another V8 im after something else this time , any ideas would be extreamly helpful

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24678-garrett-gt28/#findComment-922677
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...