Jump to content
SAU Community

Ignitian Barrel Braket Removal

r33rckt

By r33rckt,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33rckt Collaborator

r33rckt

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone

wondering if somone can explain to me how to get the bolts out that hold the ignitian barrel to the steering column.

i have included some pictures from both sides of the bolts and circled them in red

just to show that there is nowhere for a spanner or screwdriver to go

thanks in advance ppl

post-13428-1227921047_thumb.jpgpost-13428-1227921159_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246860-ignitian-barrel-braket-removal/
Share on other sites
Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

These are designed so that when you tighten the bolts up the bolt heads break off - this means that they can never be removed.

The first question is why do you want to remove the ignition lock?

If the lock has failed or been damaged in an attempted theft then you will have to then find a way to break the housing apart and replace it with a new one (this is what happed to one of our cars after an attempted theft). The challenge is to remove the lock mechanism without damaging the steering column.

NA_Goodness Grand Master

NA_Goodness

Posted
Posted

Its pretty easy really. Just get a sharp punch and a hammer, hit the punch into the screw far enough to get a large enough "wall" then hit it across. This pushed the screw around and undoes it. Same if your trying to undo any other stripped bolt.

When we did this, we grabbed the grinder and ground a groove through them so we could put them back in with a screw driver easily.

Good luck!

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted (edited)

They can eiher be drilled out, or ise a thin drill, place 2 small holes at the ends opposite each other, and use a fork-type screw piece to extract.

Either way, once they are in, the heads snap off and they are next to impossible to remove, and once removed, they can not be re-used.

B.

EDIT: Could also try using a dremel to cut a | into the top, then use a flat bladded screw driver to get it out.

Again, once it's out, it's finished.

Edited by turbo_brian
r33rckt Collaborator

r33rckt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys i think i can get these out with one of the above ideas

the reason i am taking it out is this is a parts car and somone has asked for the part

they dont want the barrel itself just this metal bracket

i will give these ideas a go cheers

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
Yeah awesome, lets just post out on a public forum on how to remove a skylines steering lock....
Just about every manufacturer does it this way.

Thieves already know this anyway. It's time consuming to get it off - if a thief wants to remove it, he simply smashes the ignition barrel off (as he did when he tried to steal my 32), which releases the column lock pin.

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted
Just about every manufacturer does it this way.

Thieves already know this anyway. It's time consuming to get it off - if a thief wants to remove it, he simply smashes the ignition barrel off (as he did when he tried to steal my 32), which releases the column lock pin.

Hmmm, lets look at this in real terms here:

Thief gets into car, goes "hmm, dont want to damage anything" so he pulls out his tool kit, gently removes the steering wheel covers, uses a dremel to score a screwdriver mark in the bolts, and then gentle remove the bolts to get the ignition barrel out, and release the locking pin.

OR

Theif gets into car, uses barrel breaker to pop the lock out, which disables the locking pin anyway, then uses any flat object (key, screwdriver, etc) to turn the ignition over, start the car and vanish.

Seriously here, which is the theif going to do???

The only time a thief would even contemplate gently removing the barrel is if they wanted the lcoking mechanism in prestine condition for a re-sale (if they where cars on a hit-list), and they would simply barrel-break the thing anyway, and repair the lock at a hidden location before presenting the car for sale (in a new country for instance).

Do you think a theif will sit there for 30 minutes in a car to be gentle while stealing it, or would they smash the barrel out in 5 - 10 seconds with a barrel breaker and turn the ignition over and drive off??

Common sense son.

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted (edited)
Just about every manufacturer does it this way.

Thieves already know this anyway. It's time consuming to get it off - if a thief wants to remove it, he simply smashes the ignition barrel off (as he did when he tried to steal my 32), which releases the column lock pin.

Hmmm, lets look at this in real terms here:

Thief gets into car, goes "hmm, dont want to damage anything" so he pulls out his tool kit, gently removes the steering wheel covers, uses a dremel to score a screwdriver mark in the bolts, and then gentle remove the bolts to get the ignition barrel out, and release the locking pin.

OR

Theif gets into car, uses barrel breaker to pop the lock out, which disables the locking pin anyway, then uses any flat object (key, screwdriver, etc) to turn the ignition over, start the car and vanish.

Seriously here, which is the theif going to do???

The only time a thief would even contemplate gently removing the barrel is if they wanted the lcoking mechanism in prestine condition for a re-sale (if they where cars on a hit-list), and they would simply barrel-break the thing anyway, and repair the lock at a hidden location before presenting the car for sale (in a new country for instance).

Do you think a theif will sit there for 30 minutes in a car to be gentle while stealing it, or would they smash the barrel out in 5 - 10 seconds with a barrel breaker and turn the ignition over and drive off??

Common sense son.

'Tis true the points you bring out as they are valid, but to be honest as a locksmith by trade, I don't believe any sort knowledge to defeat a cars security should be blatantly spread, regardless if it's time consuming or quick or just "common sense". There's enough cars being stolen as there is, we don't need more.

All valid points...

Edited by KeyMaker
r33rckt Collaborator

r33rckt

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks to those who helped out i have now got it out with a slight variation of the afore mentioned methods

and to keep everyone happy i will not disclose the exact details of my top secret method :rolleyes:

even though as mentioned it did take me about an hour

maybe im just slow hehehe.

thanks everyone i apreciate your help

Edited by r33rckt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...