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The Defected Thread...

Cubes

By Cubes,
in South Australia

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craig R33
craig R33

that would have to be one of the stupidest things i have ever heard in my 21 years of being on this planet. and my ex girlfriend was a retard, and you still take the cake!

Dohmar
Dohmar

Did someone say crack? -D

Nathan1066
Nathan1066

^^^ All of you cut this out now or I am sure a moderator will swiftly place some bans on people... This is meant to be a helpful thread that has been highjacked for personal taunts and retorts. Grow

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Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

Why would it cost more? Do you know what engineering means? A qualified engineer just looks at the relevant ADRs and make sure that the work has been completed in a saftisfactory way so that it is structurally sound and safe. If it meets all of these conditions and nothing needs to be done you are just paying for a few hours of research and inspection nothing more hence the low cost.

Weezy Grand Master

Weezy

Posted
Posted

Rolls is correct. Your paying for engineer to come out, tick that its road worthy and that is it lol. If its not done properlly thats when he may get expensive. We did lots and lots of them when I worked at Sinergy Motorsports.

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted

When Rory certified my brake bias in my 1600, there was a fee involved for the use of AIR to test the even braking of the car front and rear. It was something like $80-$100 for use of the venue ... was a few years ago. In total I paid something like $150-$200.

mid life crisis Veteran

mid life crisis

Posted
Posted

when i built my ac cobra replica between rory and doug potts it cost me about 2 g in reports including hire of air for lane change test and braking test . and when it went thru regency to get ticked off and registerd regency still argued over some of the stuff sighned off by the engineers and i had to go back for further reports . the whole industry is a sham lol .

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

My car just went through today for an engine swap and state rego transfer inspection (same as a defect basically). They picked me up for lack of child seat restraint anchors, need to get 3 of them installed. There is a hole in the drivers seat where the frame comes through, need to stitch this up. Spoiler had been removed so I had no eye level brake light. Need near wheel bearings for the rear as there was almost a centre meter of movement sideways, both front upper control arm bushes were fairly well worn as well.

Not really that fussed, wheel bearings and bushes are something I would have done myself as they are pretty damn important. Child seat restraints is annoying as I will never ever use them, I guess ADRs are ADRs though, same goes for the hole in the seat, don't really know how this could ever hurt anyone, its not even uncomfortable. The brake light is fair enough though, I didn't realise that the spoiler had one in it.

They didn't say anything about my engine swap, mods in the engine bay or chopped up inner wheel guards so I'm fairly happy as all of that stuff would be a pain in the ass to get around and fix.

typevu Grand Master

typevu

Posted
Posted

I picked up a pair of them child restraints anchors at Nisswreck for $20($10 each), just the anchor and the bolt - thats all I needed because I've already had the hole and thread in the parcel shelf for them from compliance.

Or if you need the whole child restraint kit its something around $95 at Singery Motorsport... he seemed "iffy" on the pricing saying like yeah its about $90 then later its like about $95 yadida, said he was going to order it in will get back to me in a couple days when they arrive but never got back to me about it!

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

If I get just the anchors is it just a matter of drilling a hole and screwing a bolt through them? Or do the anchors have a bolt thread on them and need a threaded hole to screw into?

I'll give all the import guys a call tomorrow.

SkyHi_33 Mentor

SkyHi_33

Posted
Posted

the hole in the seat is in case something electrical shorts out in the car, or it gets hit by lightning (it does happen). wouldn't wanna be touching an exposed piece of metal in that instance haha.

scandyflick Grand Master

scandyflick

Posted
Posted

i could be thinking wrong, i am pretty knackered after all.

but uh, doesnt lightning need a route to ground?

im fairly sure rubber (tyres) prevent this from happening.

correct me if im wrong though.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

Yes but lightening can jump from a cloud to the ground so Im sure it can jump from a car to the ground. However lightening takes the path of least resistance, the metal in your car has far less resistance than your body so you wouldn't have any current travel though you. Once again the chassis is ground in your car so even if something shorted to the chassis it would just flatten your battery, you couldn't receive a shock from it.

JiN_MaN Veteran

JiN_MaN

Posted
Posted
If I get just the anchors is it just a matter of drilling a hole and screwing a bolt through them? Or do the anchors have a bolt thread on them and need a threaded hole to screw into?

I'll give all the import guys a call tomorrow.

Drill 1 big hole for the bolt to go through and you also need to pot rivet the actually metal bracket to the car as well.

So bolt through, metal bracket,rear parcel shelf and then nut on the bottom.

Pot rivet the metal bracket to the rear parcel shelf.

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