Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why would it cost more? Do you know what engineering means? A qualified engineer just looks at the relevant ADRs and make sure that the work has been completed in a saftisfactory way so that it is structurally sound and safe. If it meets all of these conditions and nothing needs to be done you are just paying for a few hours of research and inspection nothing more hence the low cost.

Rolls is correct. Your paying for engineer to come out, tick that its road worthy and that is it lol. If its not done properlly thats when he may get expensive. We did lots and lots of them when I worked at Sinergy Motorsports.

When Rory certified my brake bias in my 1600, there was a fee involved for the use of AIR to test the even braking of the car front and rear. It was something like $80-$100 for use of the venue ... was a few years ago. In total I paid something like $150-$200.

when i built my ac cobra replica between rory and doug potts it cost me about 2 g in reports including hire of air for lane change test and braking test . and when it went thru regency to get ticked off and registerd regency still argued over some of the stuff sighned off by the engineers and i had to go back for further reports . the whole industry is a sham lol .

My car just went through today for an engine swap and state rego transfer inspection (same as a defect basically). They picked me up for lack of child seat restraint anchors, need to get 3 of them installed. There is a hole in the drivers seat where the frame comes through, need to stitch this up. Spoiler had been removed so I had no eye level brake light. Need near wheel bearings for the rear as there was almost a centre meter of movement sideways, both front upper control arm bushes were fairly well worn as well.

Not really that fussed, wheel bearings and bushes are something I would have done myself as they are pretty damn important. Child seat restraints is annoying as I will never ever use them, I guess ADRs are ADRs though, same goes for the hole in the seat, don't really know how this could ever hurt anyone, its not even uncomfortable. The brake light is fair enough though, I didn't realise that the spoiler had one in it.

They didn't say anything about my engine swap, mods in the engine bay or chopped up inner wheel guards so I'm fairly happy as all of that stuff would be a pain in the ass to get around and fix.

I picked up a pair of them child restraints anchors at Nisswreck for $20($10 each), just the anchor and the bolt - thats all I needed because I've already had the hole and thread in the parcel shelf for them from compliance.

Or if you need the whole child restraint kit its something around $95 at Singery Motorsport... he seemed "iffy" on the pricing saying like yeah its about $90 then later its like about $95 yadida, said he was going to order it in will get back to me in a couple days when they arrive but never got back to me about it!

If I get just the anchors is it just a matter of drilling a hole and screwing a bolt through them? Or do the anchors have a bolt thread on them and need a threaded hole to screw into?

I'll give all the import guys a call tomorrow.

the hole in the seat is in case something electrical shorts out in the car, or it gets hit by lightning (it does happen). wouldn't wanna be touching an exposed piece of metal in that instance haha.

i could be thinking wrong, i am pretty knackered after all.

but uh, doesnt lightning need a route to ground?

im fairly sure rubber (tyres) prevent this from happening.

correct me if im wrong though.

Yes but lightening can jump from a cloud to the ground so Im sure it can jump from a car to the ground. However lightening takes the path of least resistance, the metal in your car has far less resistance than your body so you wouldn't have any current travel though you. Once again the chassis is ground in your car so even if something shorted to the chassis it would just flatten your battery, you couldn't receive a shock from it.

If I get just the anchors is it just a matter of drilling a hole and screwing a bolt through them? Or do the anchors have a bolt thread on them and need a threaded hole to screw into?

I'll give all the import guys a call tomorrow.

Drill 1 big hole for the bolt to go through and you also need to pot rivet the actually metal bracket to the car as well.

So bolt through, metal bracket,rear parcel shelf and then nut on the bottom.

Pot rivet the metal bracket to the rear parcel shelf.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...