Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i dont know what i am sayn lol

but the other day i saw a black R34 gtr and yes it was a GTR it was wide and the back was extra wide near the tyres. And i did not hear wooooshhh. i was behind him for a while and he was revvin it

Most NA's have a blue GT badge, and from the sticker/ badge on the boot (GTS/ GT/ GTS4 <- although a few do a turbo conversion for this model). Also, they have a different exhaust note esp if they have an aftermarket exhaust.

ok i dont know what i am sayn lol

but the other day i saw a black R34 gtr and yes it was a GTR it was wide and the back was extra wide near the tyres. And i did not hear wooooshhh. i was behind him for a while and he was revvin it

You will only hear the "WoooChoo" noise when the car has an air pod(s) while the car is in motion and the turbos are spooling and you take you foot off the accelerator. If its just the stock airbox you won't hear much.

Or if you do hear a "WoooChoo" noise while it was just revving and not moving, it probably have an aftermarket BOV.

R32 GTS - N/A

Different front bumper - not a type M bar

4 stud brakes

Gold GT badges on the side ... dunno about all but mine has Gold GT badges on it others have blue and white badges

Different Exhaust note to it aswell ...

Usually Automatic transmission as well but not always

Those are just a couple tips I could think of ...

  • 2 weeks later...

Allow me to add... last others have said... N/A's will only have 4-stud wheels, and when they revv, you won't hear a sucking sound... I don't care if you have a stock airbox or a pod filter or not, N/A's will not have a sucking sound.

True that if a turbo Skyline has a good pod filter and front mounted intercooler there's more of a chopping, spooling, sucking sound and ppppffttt sound... even if it doesn't have all this, you still hear a sucking sound... that's probably the easiest things to look out for.

I can tell apart from a turbo/NA skyline anytime. Sometimes its hard cos BMW's an N/A skylines sound very much allike, esp with a larger exh.

The turbo have a kind of "growl" and when off boost will sound a bit muffled, but when on boost its loud and rev out way quicker. However the N/A sounds Raspy/Tinny. They will also be slower to rev out.

thats from my personal experience tho.

EDIT - Sorry guys, left the banana man out by accident ==--> :) Yea!

Edited by Ultimategtr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...