Jump to content
SAU Community

2006 Axis


sleeper393
 Share

Recommended Posts

im located near bachus marsh , but travel all around with work , i would like a later model as possable , so i dont feel im going to far backwards so to speak , i have a 2002 model ford , so a 2003 model stag would kind of defeat the purpose of buying a new vehicle , if you can understand where im coming from. regards alan

:laughing-smiley-014:

:(

:)

Believe me Alan. My 2001 RS Four would be a mighty upgrade over a 2006 ford, let alone a 2008 model.

If you are in the Mt. Eliza area during business hours of the Pakenham area any other time, let me know in advance.

:D

Even the Spare Parts Manager for Audi Australia was impressed with the whole car, but mainly with the interior.

:laughing-smiley-014:

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:laughing-smiley-014:

:(

:)

Believe me mate. My 2001 RS Four would be a mighty upgrade over a 2006 ford, let alone a 2008 model.

If you are in the Mt. Eliza area during business hours of the Pakenham area any other time, let me know in advance.

:D

Even the Spare Parts Manager for Audi Australia was impressed with the whole car, but mainly with the interior.

:laughing-smiley-014:

yeah id believe it , technically more advanced , but it has to do with my tax and the depreciation aspect, so the newer model i can get my hands on the more of a benefit long term.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah thanks for that i'll keep that in mind if im over your way ,

regards alan

Well I love the AXIS version and am very impressed with it being a 2002 model.....would only get rid of it if I bought another Evo or no longer needed a wagon...........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:laughing-smiley-014:

>_<

:)

Believe me Alan. My 2001 RS Four would be a mighty upgrade over a 2006 ford, let alone a 2008 model.

If you are in the Mt. Eliza area during business hours of the Pakenham area any other time, let me know in advance.

:)

Even the Spare Parts Manager for Audi Australia was impressed with the whole car, but mainly with the interior.

:laughing-smiley-014:

I live in Toorak, but will be throwing together a BBQ -> Beach/drive in cruise in the new year, and will be seeing you there :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

need more notice than that to book my ticket man >_<

HAHA. gonna go to the mechanic int he newyear and make my swaybars SK-spec(drill some more holes) too see if that helps it sit a bit flatter, then when i have more cash down to Delphi to get their "Dynamics Engineer" to sort out valving etc.

come back once that is done, might be a nicer ride.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is a 2003 (before November) NM35 too old?

2003 might have to be , i dont really see any visual differences between 2003 and say 2006 models ????

i've only started and im already pissed , government , there are shitbox commodores & falcons and others belching crap out their exhausts ,but thats ok , but to bring in a technically more advanced vehicle , you get a smack on the wrist ,for f**k sake , sorry about the swearing ,!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2003 might have to be , i dont really see any visual differences between 2003 and say 2006 models ????

i've only started and im already pissed , government , there are shitbox commodores & falcons and others belching crap out their exhausts ,but thats ok , but to bring in a technically more advanced vehicle , you get a smack on the wrist ,for f**k sake , sorry about the swearing ,!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

The easiest way to tell the difference between the NM35 (2001-2004) and the PM35 (2004-2008) is in the headlights and grill.

NM35

Axis RS Four

post-31842-1228861662_thumb.jpg post-31842-1228861715_thumb.jpg

PM35

Axis RS Four

post-31842-1228862478_thumb.jpg post-31842-1228862502_thumb.jpg

Gotta say though, that 2004 Axis kit is very nice on the eye - and kinda aggressive at the same time :)

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2003 might have to be , i dont really see any visual differences between 2003 and say 2006 models ????

i've only started and im already pissed , government , there are shitbox commodores & falcons and others belching crap out their exhausts ,but thats ok , but to bring in a technically more advanced vehicle , you get a smack on the wrist ,for f**k sake , sorry about the swearing ,!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

Thats what you have to keep in mind though. The visual differences have nothing to do with it. It was the change in ADR's that make them a separate compliance issue. Falcodores may be worse emission wise, but at least they DID actually comply to them when new. Thats all the gubberment cares about, otherwise we would all need to change our cats every year by law at a minimum.

Oh - and Ryan. Baby jeezuz cries everytime someone drills a swaybar :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats what you have to keep in mind though. The visual differences have nothing to do with it. It was the change in ADR's that make them a separate compliance issue. Falcodores may be worse emission wise, but at least they DID actually comply to them when new. Thats all the gubberment cares about, otherwise we would all need to change our cats every year by law at a minimum.

Oh - and Ryan. Baby jeezuz cries everytime someone drills a swaybar :D

meh, engineer can deal with it :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The easiest way to tell the difference between the NM35 (2001-2004) and the PM35 (2004-2008) is in the headlights and grill.

NM35

Axis RS Four

post-31842-1228861662_thumb.jpg post-31842-1228861715_thumb.jpg

PM35

Axis RS Four

post-31842-1228862478_thumb.jpg post-31842-1228862502_thumb.jpg

Gotta say though, that 2004 Axis kit is very nice on the eye - and kinda aggressive at the same time :)

Hope that helps.

Mmmmm the , current shape grows on ya looks a lot more conservetive than 2001 to 2004 shape, but with a nice set of rims or Autech version , should be the ducks !!!!!!!!!! :D:down:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So whom has the blue current shape stag in the pics with the vic licence plates ?? or is it a 2003 model with current front end.

regards alan. :) or is the blue one a standard stag

That would be mine. :P

It is a 2001 Rs Four V.

Standard suspension with Nismo LMX5 wheels.

No body modifications (yet).

It is actually a very early model NM35 (Aug/Sept 2001 build)

Check out either my Album or Garage (click the link under my Avatar) for more pics.

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2.8L Stroked S1 RB25 Fully built block (Spool&CP) and head (Ferrea & Kelford 272's). Hydro lifters.  Precision 6466 Gen2 1.00 T4 Divided. 2x 40mm Turbosmart open dump gates.  DW 1200cc injectors 2x AEM 320LPH Pumps Haltech Elite 2500, IC7, WB1, TC8, Etc.  4" Downpipe, 3.5" Catback.  94AKI (101.5ron) Pump gas + WMI (2x 1000cc nozzles) 463rwkws @ 27psi on a mustang roller dyno. 
    • I finally got it on the dyno today and luckily it stayed in one piece! It wasn't without its dramas though. First off, sent my power steering belt to the moon around the third pull. Scared me half to death. Tuner laughed and mentioned that often happens with RB's... I may need to look into adding the Ross power steering idler, or something a long those lines.  Second issue that came up was about 2 hours in, we realized the VCT wasn't working and had to go back through the timing and knock threshold once it was fixed (I had botched setting up VCT). That waisted a good hour or so. I was surprised to see that with VCT working, we saw a ~38rwkw difference across the powerband. More then I would of expected.  Without further ado, made 463rwkw@27psi. Not the numbers I originally set out after, but still more then enough to kill myself and I'm very happy. Mustang roller dyno's are known to be heart breakers compared to other dyno's. Two things that limited me, first was the hydraulic lifters/7600rpm cut. Tuner was adamant that I was losing out on a lot of power up top because of it. Second was the pump gas & WMI. He wasn't 100% comfortable tuning with WMI, and was honest about it. He stated he's more confident on E85/Race gas. I look at this as a positive as it leaves me a lot of room for improvement. All in all, very happy! I need to see what I can do about that rev limiter... I use to rev my stock RB20 to 8000rpm and now I have a fully built head that I only rev to 7600... It's bugging me.  Don't mind my fantastic picture/filming skills.  RB28 - Dyno (1).mp4      
    • The Daily - 2011 Audi A5 And the camper VW transporter T5          
    • Wow mate that's huge, congrats. Glad you found better people to deal with and all seems like it's going in the right direction.
    • The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style Different tyres like different camber You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car Lots of front camber will effect braking Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking  When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's) As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer
×
×
  • Create New...