Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

i've posted in the QLD section and had a few workshops suggested for general servicing but none of these do transmission servicing on these cars.

I need my transmission serviced (oil/filter changed etc) in the next 2 weeks and have no idea which workshop(s) can do this.

If anyone knows of a reputable place to get this done please let me know.

I also need the engine serviced as well but it should be easier to find places to do this.

At the very least does anyone know what parts are required/suitable for transmission servicing on M35's, and also what oil/filter is recommended for the engine as well...?

Thanks!

P.S. i'm on the south side but at this stage I'd be happy to just find a place that will do it without waiting 2 weeks for nissan to import parts (surely there are aftermarket parts for these that are good quality).

Edited by pixel8r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248212-stagea-m35-transmission-service/
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

i've posted in the QLD section and had a few workshops suggested for general servicing but none of these do transmission servicing on these cars.

I need my transmission serviced (oil/filter changed etc) in the next 2 weeks and have no idea which workshop(s) can do this.

If anyone knows of a reputable place to get this done please let me know.

I also need the engine serviced as well but it should be easier to find places to do this.

At the very least does anyone know what parts are required/suitable for transmission servicing on M35's, and also what oil/filter is recommended for the engine as well...?

Thanks!

P.S. i'm on the south side but at this stage I'd be happy to just find a place that will do it without waiting 2 weeks for nissan to import parts (surely there are aftermarket parts for these that are good quality).

Why not just take it to Nissan?

Ask them to put their special "satchel" in. It does make the transmission even smoother. You will need to utilise the art of persuasion though.

It should only cost $250 for the full service & satchel.

If the transmission is operating nicely, why do you feel the need to have it serviced?

Nissan actually do not recommend our particular transmission serviced at all as they are designed to be "maintenance free.

That's not just here, but Japan as well.... apparently.

Why not just take it to Nissan?

Ask them to put their special "satchel" in. It does make the transmission even smoother. You will need to utilise the art of persuasion though.

It should only cost $250 for the full service & satchel.

If the transmission is operating nicely, why do you feel the need to have it serviced?

Nissan actually do not recommend our particular transmission serviced at all as they are designed to be "maintenance free.

That's not just here, but Japan as well.... apparently.

hmm already tried my local nissan dealer (moorooka). They dont service imports at all. They said they can do a very basic service but in general they normally dont touch them. I haven't tried any other dealers - I have the feeling it would depend on their technicians and how confident they are with imports.

I was originally keen on the satchel you mentioned, but finding out the above I decided just to go elsewhere. Maybe I should have tried other dealers...? if anyone else has been to a nissan dealer in brisbane it'd be helpful to everyone to find out. :D

I ended up going with Western Suburbs Automatics (www.wsautomatics.com.au).

My transmission has been very sluggish right from the start and has showed some unusual behaviour, mainly around if I lifted my foot gently when cruising and then gently put it back on the throttle, I could feel the gearbox disengage and engage. I realise mostly this is normal but it felt too harsh to be considered normal in my opinion. And it was frustrating at times due to it feeling like it had to "wake up" again if, for example traffic cleared in front of me and I wanted to speed up.

Mainly I think just the oil change would have been what it needed but I felt it couldnt' hurt to have an auto specialist have a look at the same time.

When you say it should be "maintenance free" I assume you would still agree that a transmission oil & filter change is necessary every 12 months or so. :)

hmm already tried my local nissan dealer (moorooka). They dont service imports at all. They said they can do a very basic service but in general they normally dont touch them. I haven't tried any other dealers - I have the feeling it would depend on their technicians and how confident they are with imports.

I was originally keen on the satchel you mentioned, but finding out the above I decided just to go elsewhere. Maybe I should have tried other dealers...? if anyone else has been to a nissan dealer in brisbane it'd be helpful to everyone to find out. :)

I ended up going with Western Suburbs Automatics (www.wsautomatics.com.au).

My transmission has been very sluggish right from the start and has showed some unusual behaviour, mainly around if I lifted my foot gently when cruising and then gently put it back on the throttle, I could feel the gearbox disengage and engage. I realise mostly this is normal but it felt too harsh to be considered normal in my opinion. And it was frustrating at times due to it feeling like it had to "wake up" again if, for example traffic cleared in front of me and I wanted to speed up.

Mainly I think just the oil change would have been what it needed but I felt it couldnt' hurt to have an auto specialist have a look at the same time.

When you say it should be "maintenance free" I assume you would still agree that a transmission oil & filter change is necessary every 12 months or so. :)

What did Western Automatics have to say about the transmission? Anything wrong? Were they able to replicate the "unusual behavior"?

ANY Nissan dealership can "deal" with the transmission.

I would look at a different dealership. If they won't even look at an import, you can bet that their service staff are of sub-par ability.

I have found that you have to be VERY selective with Nissan dealerships. :down:

When I quizzed the guys at Ferntree Gully about the transmission, they stated that there was no need to change the fluids once it has been sealed up.

I was also told by another workshop that "these transmissions do not have filters, much like the Patrol transmissions". :D

Dunno. I would prefer to see for myself that there is no filter... But I have been told my more than one dealership (phone calls) that it is not recommended to change AT Fluid.

What did Western Automatics have to say about the transmission? Anything wrong? Were they able to replicate the "unusual behavior"?

ANY Nissan dealership can "deal" with the transmission.

I would look at a different dealership. If they won't even look at an import, you can bet that their service staff are of sub-par ability.

I have found that you have to be VERY selective with Nissan dealerships. :down:

When I quizzed the guys at Ferntree Gully about the transmission, they stated that there was no need to change the fluids once it has been sealed up.

I was also told by another workshop that "these transmissions do not have filters, much like the Patrol transmissions". :D

Dunno. I would prefer to see for myself that there is no filter... But I have been told my more than one dealership (phone calls) that it is not recommended to change AT Fluid.

I'll have a look on FAST tonight and see if there is a Filter on the transmission. I have been told the Trans fluid should be changed like the plugs, every 80 100'000 k's

Cheers

Andy

I'll have a look on FAST tonight and see if there is a Filter on the transmission. I have been told the Trans fluid should be changed like the plugs, every 80 100'000 k's

Cheers

Andy

Ahh, the journey of discovery continues

Edited by iamhe77

Very interesting...

However, I can definitely say the transmission is now very much improved. Everything just feels so much smoother. The workshop didn't mention any "problems" with it. I'd say it just needed new oil.

The oil was replaced with synthetic transmission oil so that may have contributed to the smoother shifts. All up I'm pretty happy with it now. The gear shifts are still not as quick as I'd like but that should be fixable down the track. Anybody know if MV Automatics in SA can do shift kits for these as well? I had one in my previous stagea (s2) and loved it!!

Very interesting...

However, I can definitely say the transmission is now very much improved. Everything just feels so much smoother. The workshop didn't mention any "problems" with it. I'd say it just needed new oil.

The oil was replaced with synthetic transmission oil so that may have contributed to the smoother shifts. All up I'm pretty happy with it now. The gear shifts are still not as quick as I'd like but that should be fixable down the track. Anybody know if MV Automatics in SA can do shift kits for these as well? I had one in my previous stagea (s2) and loved it!!

I spoke to them earlier in the year and they said they could do it but they do not have a spare valve to convert ahead of time. This means you have to have yours removed and then send it off to them, I think they said about 2-3 days to convert it and then sent back. About 5 days all up. The cost was similar to the C34 Stagea to do which if the memory serves correctly was about $280 (but don't quote me LOL).

They also mentioned that they make the valve a little softer in gear changes than 2 wheel drives so as not to load up the 4 wheel drive transmission. But this should be the same as a C34 Stagea.

Let us know how you go when you do it?

Cheers

Andy

I checked on FAST and can not see a Filter in the diagram for the transmission.

I can tell you the part number for the oil for the transmission. KLE23-00002.

Cheers

Andy

Would that lend you to think that the Nissan guys are correct when they say there is no filter?

Edited by iamhe77
has anyone noticed there is no fuel filter either?

Hadn't actually looked (am 5000km's from replacing it - if it is there!)

If it is not hidden away somewhere, it would explain why the car can run better on some tank fillups than others.

so $280 for a shift kit?? why does that seem very cheap. or are you just talking about replacement valves?

When I got mine fitted at MV Automatics on my previous stagea, I lived in SA so I actually dropped off my car there and picked it up that afternoon.

Cost me $440 and that included new oil & filter. If there was one mod I would DEFINITELY do again it was that one!

Their prices may have gone up since, that was back in 2006.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...