Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Just asking for some help in regards to my aftermaket BOV its an atmos BOV and i was wonder what i have to do to get more flutter.... I realise ppl on hear hat flutter but i dont kmind it so plz dont flame me saying flutter is gay or so 1999 or that its not a good idea as its damaging my turbo as the air is going back into it etc as i have read all about it...

Anyways i have read that best way to do it is to block the BOV so i as wonder where i wound do this and best method to do it?? Any help is appriciated and no sorry i didnt keep my stock BOV but wish i did...

Also my BOV twists so you can loosen it and tighten it... can anyone tell me what the use of that is?

her is the best pic of my BOV i have atm

post-51724-1228868862_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248366-bov-help/
Share on other sites

the flutter your talkin g about or "dose" is different to the noise you want.. if you make the bov harder or "open it up" and your sound will increase.. be aware that you will get more stalling with this..

and the more boost you pump in the louder it gets

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248366-bov-help/#findComment-4309508
Share on other sites

if it has a adjustable spring in there then you can just tighten it all the way

and you will get flutters till it hits certain boost level

oowww ok no worried i will try and tighten it and see what happens.... I get flutter at really low revs but anything over 3000 its not really thre and the BOV is just loud as fark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248366-bov-help/#findComment-4309619
Share on other sites

Follow these steps:

1) Buy a can of coke

2) drink the coke

3) cut the coke can open

4) put your BOV flange on the coke can and trace the outline with the screw holes

5) cut the outline and drill the screw holes

6) put the cut out peice of the coke can between the cooler piping and your BOV, and screw the BOV back on.

If you have done this correctly, your BOV will not work, and all you will hear is flutter (assuming you have a pod filter)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248366-bov-help/#findComment-4309868
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...