Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Strangest thing just happened to me on the way home from work! Was cruising about 60-70kph on a straight road (had music on quite loud).

Anyways the car just dies, and slowly comes to a stop.....

Tried to start it back up, and the starter motor turns, but it wont start!! All the electrics are working, air con still on so I figured the battery was fine.Got my mechanic mate to come help me out, he checks everything in the engine bay everything seems fine. Fuel is pumping. This is where things get interesting.

Attempt to start the car again - nothing!

Pulled out the ecu harness, waited then reconnected. Then attempt to start the car again - nothing!

A couple mins later, as a last ditch effor, we get our jumper cables out. Connect it up and bam !!! It starts!!

Having said that...

1) if it was a battery issue, why on earth would my car just die like that while cruising?

2) why would all the electrics be working, starter motor turning etc etc?

Not that i think it matters, but my battery is pretty small, I had the music up real loud with the bass crankin. So even if my alternator was fudged, doesnt explain why it would die mid-drive. What do you guys reckon?

EDIT: Car is an R34 GTT :)

Edited by Go Go
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248705-strangest-thing-just-happened/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Strangest thing just happened to me on the way home from work! Was cruising about 60-70kph on a straight road (had music on quite loud).

Anyways the car just dies, and slowly comes to a stop.....

Tried to start it back up, and the starter motor turns, but it wont start!! All the electrics are working, air con still on so I figured the battery was fine.Got my mechanic mate to come help me out, he checks everything in the engine bay everything seems fine. Fuel is pumping. This is where things get interesting.

Attempt to start the car again - nothing!

Pulled out the ecu harness, waited then reconnected. Then attempt to start the car again - nothing!

A couple mins later, as a last ditch effor, we get our jumper cables out. Connect it up and bam !!! It starts!!

Having said that...

1) if it was a battery issue, why on earth would my car just die like that while cruising?

2) why would all the electrics be working, starter motor turning etc etc?

Not that i think it matters, but my battery is pretty small, I had the music up real loud with the bass crankin. So even if my alternator was fudged, doesnt explain why it would die mid-drive. What do you guys reckon?

EDIT: Car is an R34 GTT :)

i would say its electrical.......im not a professional auto electrician..........

but generally what happens is.....

when your car is off....whatever you turn on.....fan, radio lights etc.........it uses the battery......

but when the car motor is running...it should transfer to the Altenator...which produces electricity via magnetic fields..(thats why you see copper coils through the fins in altenator) so all devices your using including the motor running is supplied by the altenator. and the altenator should also charge the battery.

unless you were running on your battery only and the altenator stuffed.......

look just take it to an auto electrician.....NOt just any dodgy mechanic.....

and with a few tests with the multi-meter.....they should tell you whats not working

Hi guys thanks for the responses so far! :)

So how would a drained battery and stuffed alternator cause my car to shut down mid drive?

My R31 did this, brilliant Nissan engineers decided to put the "ALT" globe in the dash into the circuit. The solder joints just broke again so now my alternator does not work unless it "self-excites" ie. car hits 3500 or 4K RPM.

Until then my volt meter sits around 8-10volts. EDIT: in car volt meter, its not perfectly accurate but it tells me if the alternator is running or not :)

On the above, yes, my R31 starting running rough and stalled after been jump started (got about 5-6mins up the road) and driving it with the alternator effectively turned off (I didn't know about the self exciting thing back then ;)).

Our cars are prone to changes in voltages.

If you have a loose connection say on the alternator, when it's dropped out, the battery is running the show. Add to that the big "fat beats" you were "pumping" when the sub kicks, it draws a lot of amps, and as such, the batteries dynamic voltage will drop. It could have dropped down to around 9 or 10 Volts dynamically, which is not enough to keep the ECU happy, and it shuts off.

When you're stopped and measuring the volts, it may read 12 or 13 volts, then when you crank it, it will drop to around 8 or 9 volts. Hence, again it's not enough to keep the ECU happy enough to start the car, but JUST enough to get the motor cranking.

Check your alternator out, and all connections.

Our cars are prone to changes in voltages.

If you have a loose connection say on the alternator, when it's dropped out, the battery is running the show. Add to that the big "fat beats" you were "pumping" when the sub kicks, it draws a lot of amps, and as such, the batteries dynamic voltage will drop. It could have dropped down to around 9 or 10 Volts dynamically, which is not enough to keep the ECU happy, and it shuts off.

When you're stopped and measuring the volts, it may read 12 or 13 volts, then when you crank it, it will drop to around 8 or 9 volts. Hence, again it's not enough to keep the ECU happy enough to start the car, but JUST enough to get the motor cranking.

Check your alternator out, and all connections.

I've checked my alternator, seems fine. All connections and wiring seem O.K.

Is it possible there is faulty wiring in my stereo and is draining too much power for the alternator?

what size Amplifiers are you running to power the whole sound system ? I mean if its one really huge MoFo

of a sound system then you could be using more power than the alternator is capable of putting out. When

you drive the car at Nightime does the Bass dimm the headlights and inst cluster lights to the Beat ?

If you have a multi meter, check across the battery terminals at idle and with revs, should be 13-14volts for both.

Also check the field (f tab-wire on alt) should be @ 12 constant.

If you get those readings at the battery and field you're alt is a ok.

Just clear up some mis-imformation

but when the car motor is running...it should transfer to the Altenator...which produces electricity via magnetic fields..(thats why you see copper coils through the fins in altenator) so all devices your using including the motor running is supplied by the altenator. and the altenator should also charge the battery.

The alt charges the battery, the car-engine-acc ect draw power from the battery...very simple

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
×
×
  • Create New...