Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Bootlid Holes

RusH_

By RusH_,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So i have removed the spoiler from my 34, and am planning on having the holes filled in and getting it re-sprayed, the question is, do i have the holes welded or is it ok to have the fibreglassed/bogged

also what problems could occur from having it fibreglassed/bogged as i know welding them would be the ideal option

there are 6 small holes on the top of the lid, but im also removing the tail light in the centre, so that is a bit larger of a hole.

advice much appreciated

steve

gfunkk Rising Star

gfunkk

Posted
Posted

The normal method is to mash bog in the holes then put bog on tape, put the tape over the hole so the bog doesn’t fall down

Then peel the tape off and its "fixed"

Welding its generally the best method but if you don't do it well you can warp the boot…

Its also expensive

Oh and the shortcut way is just buy rubber plugs and plug up the holes...

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah, well right now, if i go the fibreglass/bog method, i can have it all done for free, but im just wondering if there are any complications with it, like it warping or popping out of the hole and so forth, even over time

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

weld it, best option for a permanant solution.

glassing can work, BUT you cant really get in behind it to get a good adhesion to the surface due to the support framing

bog will eventually crack off as you flex the boot to open and close it.

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted (edited)

welding it up can't be that expensive .. it's just a bunch of tiny holes ?? I can't imagine it taking a panel beater more than 10-15 mins. And if you decide to put it back on, just drill through.

I'm actually thinking of doing the same to my GTT once the body kit goes on next week .. I'll see what it looks like first when I take the wing off (is it hard to take it off?) Cool thing is, Justcar have arranged for me to get this done for free (ie. boot welded up/painted) if I want to instead of getting my factory rear bar painted after a recent fender bender.

Edited by Delta Force
.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted

^^^ so your an expert..

and Craved, i tried the kitty hair.. however the kitty wasnt too happy when i started pulling out his hair.. so beware that this method involves alot of cuts & scratches :banana:

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
  • Author
Posted
welding it up can't be that expensive .. it's just a bunch of tiny holes ?? I can't imagine it taking a panel beater more than 10-15 mins. And if you decide to put it back on, just drill through.

I'm actually thinking of doing the same to my GTT once the body kit goes on next week .. I'll see what it looks like first when I take the wing off (is it hard to take it off?) Cool thing is, Justcar have arranged for me to get this done for free (ie. boot welded up/painted) if I want to instead of getting my factory rear bar painted after a recent fender bender.

Be prepared for doing the rear wing, what you have to do is as follows

1. Remove boot lining on the bootlid (simple enough just a tonne of little twisty clips)

2. Unscrew the 2 bolts for each side of the wing from inside the boot (dont worry the wing will not fall off once both are undone so you don't need to hold it whilst unscrewing)

3. Next you should close the bootlid and begin applying a little pressure from under the wing, pushing upwards to expose the glue holding the wing to the bootlid.

Whilst holding the wing up (maybe only 2-5mm, this helps to have another set of hands for) use a thin stanley knife (or any retractable knife that you can extend a little) to cut along the glue.

(there is a lot of glue under each side of the wing, so take your time and go around the base slowly.

4. Once all of the glue is cut, open the bootlid again and push the wing upward again slightly whilst squeezing the clip under each side of the wing (in between where the 2 bolts were for each side)

The wing should pop out quite easily and hey presto, you just removed the wing from your 34!!

Hope this helps,

On Topic, i think im going to get it fibreglassed, if worse comes to worse and it warps or cracks in a few years, ill get a new bootlid or have it patched, ill trust the person im having do it to do a good job on it.

^^^ so your an expert..

and Craved, i tried the kitty hair.. however the kitty wasnt too happy when i started pulling out his hair.. so beware that this method involves alot of cuts & scratches :laugh:

dude?

viet_boi Mentor

viet_boi

Posted
Posted

what ever you do, dont fibreglass the holes,

weld is the way to go.

fibreglass, will look good for abit, but as times come it will sink, my boot holes have been filled but have sunk because of the fibreglass..

pay a little extra for the weld, and you will get a better boot that wont sink or crack (meaning you will have to paint the whole boot again when they patch it up again).

my 2c, I've learnt my lesson.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      HK Premier with plans for slight mods, but keeping clean and simple

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 1.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
    • Christof
      HK Premier with plans for slight mods, but keeping clean and simple

      By Christof · Posted

      Thank you so much for the comments.  This is very interesting and gives me some great ideas to think about. Keen to keep it simple and relatively classic looking. That said, i am not too worried about staying 100% period correct.  A little extra performance and relatively good (or improved) economy is just what i am looking for. Ill be keeping any parts i swap out so if i get nostalgic i can always swap it all back in.  Right now just trying to get some good ideas from people in the know (I still have a lot to learn in this space). Thank you again!  
    • dbm7
      HK Premier with plans for slight mods, but keeping clean and simple

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Wrt the engine, you're very much limited by 'production quality' as to how much extra power you can extract from them (I'm talking i6 red-motor) -- a lot here depends on how 'authentic' or 'period correct' you want the modifications to be... ...I'm too old... <grin>...the first true performance engine Holden made, was in the HD/HR models ~ this was the 'X2' performance pack...it came with twin downdraft strombergs on an otherwise unimproved intake manifold, with a two piece exhaust manifold (reckoned to be as good as extractors)... ....these engines were built upon the '179HP' cylinder block, which included extra webbing in the casting to make it stronger and less susceptible to block distortion... The next performance i6 came out with the HK Monaro (also found it's way into the LJ GTR Torana ... the car I wish I hadn't sold)...it had pretty much the same manifold setup, but was built against the '186S' block...this block retained all the extra webbing of the 179HP block, but added a forged steel crankshaft (instead of the stock cast crankshaft), because it was possible to snap the crank... ...apart from the inherent weaknesses in the stock (cast crank) blocks, the next limiting factor is the cylinder head porting & combustion chamber design, and the actual valve sizes. Back in the day, you could buy a 'yella terra' cylinder head (from stage 1 to stage 5 gradients), and this was the way to get serious power out of them -- with the extra breathing of these heads, you could fit a triple SU or DCOE Weber setup... ...obviously, these mods were a waste of time on a stock cylinder head/camshaft grind. My housemate rebuilt the i6 in his VH dunnydore about 6 months back -- this is a 186S block with the 12port 2850 blue motor head and intake/exhaust manifolds, with a dual throat Weber off an XF Falcon mounted on an adapter plate ; it's not a bad makeup...got more torque & fuel economy just light-footing it about on the first throat, but stand on it and it makes more giddy-up than the standard 2850 blue motor that it replaced. Personal note: I'd just fit an RB30 and be done it it 😃  
    • Josh K.
      Crank Motorsports Front Axles

      By Josh K. · Posted

      Thanks for sharing. That's a great video! My buddy is doing the same thing on his build (S chassis struts and towers). He's building an S14 with billet RB30 shooting for 2000whp... a race car with a TH400 just like this video. For a road car I just couldn't go this route as the strut has to be almost vertical and the caster is not going to pivot correctly (let alone camber gain). You think the R32 frontend is bad, wait till you put a MacPherson strut on without modeling it all in Solidworks to check geometry. I'm not saying it's a bad way to do it but I'd be really curious to see how it affects the geometry.
    • PranK
      HK Premier with plans for slight mods, but keeping clean and simple

      By PranK · Posted

      Hey Christof and welcome!  Sounds like an awesome project! I'm not sure many of the regular users on here would know much about the HK but I could be wrong.  Looking forward to updates.
×
×
  • Create New...