Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Bootlid Holes

RusH_

By RusH_,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So i have removed the spoiler from my 34, and am planning on having the holes filled in and getting it re-sprayed, the question is, do i have the holes welded or is it ok to have the fibreglassed/bogged

also what problems could occur from having it fibreglassed/bogged as i know welding them would be the ideal option

there are 6 small holes on the top of the lid, but im also removing the tail light in the centre, so that is a bit larger of a hole.

advice much appreciated

steve

gfunkk Rising Star

gfunkk

Posted
Posted

The normal method is to mash bog in the holes then put bog on tape, put the tape over the hole so the bog doesn’t fall down

Then peel the tape off and its "fixed"

Welding its generally the best method but if you don't do it well you can warp the boot…

Its also expensive

Oh and the shortcut way is just buy rubber plugs and plug up the holes...

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah, well right now, if i go the fibreglass/bog method, i can have it all done for free, but im just wondering if there are any complications with it, like it warping or popping out of the hole and so forth, even over time

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

weld it, best option for a permanant solution.

glassing can work, BUT you cant really get in behind it to get a good adhesion to the surface due to the support framing

bog will eventually crack off as you flex the boot to open and close it.

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted (edited)

welding it up can't be that expensive .. it's just a bunch of tiny holes ?? I can't imagine it taking a panel beater more than 10-15 mins. And if you decide to put it back on, just drill through.

I'm actually thinking of doing the same to my GTT once the body kit goes on next week .. I'll see what it looks like first when I take the wing off (is it hard to take it off?) Cool thing is, Justcar have arranged for me to get this done for free (ie. boot welded up/painted) if I want to instead of getting my factory rear bar painted after a recent fender bender.

Edited by Delta Force
.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted

^^^ so your an expert..

and Craved, i tried the kitty hair.. however the kitty wasnt too happy when i started pulling out his hair.. so beware that this method involves alot of cuts & scratches :banana:

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
  • Author
Posted
welding it up can't be that expensive .. it's just a bunch of tiny holes ?? I can't imagine it taking a panel beater more than 10-15 mins. And if you decide to put it back on, just drill through.

I'm actually thinking of doing the same to my GTT once the body kit goes on next week .. I'll see what it looks like first when I take the wing off (is it hard to take it off?) Cool thing is, Justcar have arranged for me to get this done for free (ie. boot welded up/painted) if I want to instead of getting my factory rear bar painted after a recent fender bender.

Be prepared for doing the rear wing, what you have to do is as follows

1. Remove boot lining on the bootlid (simple enough just a tonne of little twisty clips)

2. Unscrew the 2 bolts for each side of the wing from inside the boot (dont worry the wing will not fall off once both are undone so you don't need to hold it whilst unscrewing)

3. Next you should close the bootlid and begin applying a little pressure from under the wing, pushing upwards to expose the glue holding the wing to the bootlid.

Whilst holding the wing up (maybe only 2-5mm, this helps to have another set of hands for) use a thin stanley knife (or any retractable knife that you can extend a little) to cut along the glue.

(there is a lot of glue under each side of the wing, so take your time and go around the base slowly.

4. Once all of the glue is cut, open the bootlid again and push the wing upward again slightly whilst squeezing the clip under each side of the wing (in between where the 2 bolts were for each side)

The wing should pop out quite easily and hey presto, you just removed the wing from your 34!!

Hope this helps,

On Topic, i think im going to get it fibreglassed, if worse comes to worse and it warps or cracks in a few years, ill get a new bootlid or have it patched, ill trust the person im having do it to do a good job on it.

^^^ so your an expert..

and Craved, i tried the kitty hair.. however the kitty wasnt too happy when i started pulling out his hair.. so beware that this method involves alot of cuts & scratches :laugh:

dude?

viet_boi Mentor

viet_boi

Posted
Posted

what ever you do, dont fibreglass the holes,

weld is the way to go.

fibreglass, will look good for abit, but as times come it will sink, my boot holes have been filled but have sunk because of the fibreglass..

pay a little extra for the weld, and you will get a better boot that wont sink or crack (meaning you will have to paint the whole boot again when they patch it up again).

my 2c, I've learnt my lesson.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...