Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, as the title suggests, I swear the yard I got my 34 4-Door from is doing the fudge on their cars. I bought my car 3 weeks ago and haven't looked back, and I am loving it to bits, except for the following couple of things.

Tyres: Front Right is almost bald on the inside - too much camber. Front Left is on the wear indicators. Rear Left is the same as Front Left. Right Rear has about 50% tread with even-ish wear. So...I need new tyres already.

I've got a mate who works at Beaurepairs and he was gonna put new tyres on the car this arvo, but ran into another problem - Wheelnuts...

On the left rear wheel there's one nut that's siezed up and crosstheaded. It moves a bit but becomes impossible to turn out any further after that. My mate didn't want to snap a wheel stud, so he suggested I go down to the yard I bought it from - Rite Price Autos in Kawana, so I did. When I rocked up I as waitin' for about 5-10 minutes for the guy that runs the business to come out and see me. The owner of "Auto Import Service Centre" who performs all the compiancing and maintinance of the cars sold at Rite Price was there as well, and was talking with the owner. They went from the workshop to the office, and after a little while the owner of Auto Import Service Centre came out and asked me take my car to his workshed, and give him a lift there too.

When we arrive at Auto Import Service Centre I talked with the workshop manager about the problem and he said it's not covered under warrenty to get the faulty wheelnut and stud out and replace it with new ones. I am severly pissed off about this because all I wanted was my car be legit and just be able to drive it, but now I need new tyres which I don't see why I have to pay for.

Another friend suggested calling the Office of Fair Trading in combination with QLD Transport, and tell them that my roadworthy could not possibly be legit with my tyres in this condition. Auto Import Service Centre said they don't need to remove wheels to inspect the brakes, which my mate at Beaurepairs and another mate who also knows the guy at Beaurepairs says is absolutely bullshit. I got a 12 month warrenty when I purchased the car too. Please help me sort the shit out.

Problem is, would you really want this shop working on your car again??? even if they agree to do it once you threaten them with legal action they may screw up your car some more.

maybe try n get the workshop to compensate you for the money to fix the problem at another shop.

I dunno, alot of messing around with a bunch of retards; not much you can do, you can push the envelope but that takes time and money or you can assault someone and wind up with a record.

Try legit first and if that dosent work then just suck it up, buy some new tyres and when your anger fades in about 2months you can just enjoy your car...

When i bought my car, i had this 3 month warranty thing where if anything goes wrong with the car the dealer had to fix it no matter how trivial the issue was. Apparently this is compulsory for all second hand cars. BTW this is in NSW so not too sure about other states. I just don't remember what its called.

if they were arsed doing the job in the first place they'd be double arsed fixing their arseness. I wouldnt let them touch the car again and leave it with your mate or a qualified workshop. pay some money for some piece of mind and get the car thoroughly looked through while your at it. Should have done that before you handed the cash over, you probably would have picked up on the problem then. IMO 3 weeks driving isnt long enough to have killed your tyres with regular k's, they would have been on the verge of what you described and would have been easily picked up if it was inspected properly in the first place.

Do they do inhouse r.w.c?

Ask to see a copy of yours, if it's a different w/shop get them involved also.

Their capacity to do r.w.c inspections should be worth a lot more than some tyres and studs to them :/

Edited by madbung

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...