Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why not just drive it with the standard ecu and swap it when it gets retuned

yeah i was planning on that just i meant for example on the day im going to get it tuned ill put the ecu in my car and drive to the place to dyno it and get it tuned

why not just let them swap it in?

well if they dont charge extra i will. Only thing troubling me about buyin this ecu the guy doesnt know if its the dr drift type remap where you can keep over righting the tune with a new one or the toshi type where to get it retunned it needs a new chip in it. is there anyway to find out

well if they dont charge extra i will. Only thing troubling me about buyin this ecu the guy doesnt know if its the dr drift type remap where you can keep over righting the tune with a new one or the toshi type where to get it retunned it needs a new chip in it. is there anyway to find out

mate !! best bet would be to call dr. Drift to find out.. I'd think there should be a connector/port to connect the ecu to the laptop if it's a re-tunreble/ dr.drift type ecu where as a Toshi type is identical to stock ecu (non-retunerble)

mate !! best bet would be to call dr. Drift to find out.. I'd think there should be a connector/port to connect the ecu to the laptop if it's a re-tunreble/ dr.drift type ecu where as a Toshi type is identical to stock ecu (non-retunerble)

Sams (dr.drift) ecu's are just the stock ecu modified, he plugs his laptop into the data port under the dash.

The only way to tell what it is, is to get the guy to take some pics of the inside of the ecu and send them along to Sam, he will be able to tell you if its good or not.

Hope this helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...