Jump to content
SAU Community

Help - Correct Tire Sizes For 20's On V35 Coupe

jonnnsyr33

By jonnnsyr33,
in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti

 Share

Recommended Posts

jonnnsyr33 Contributor

jonnnsyr33

Posted
Posted (edited)

After doing countless hours of research or rims and tyres i finally bit the bullet and purchased a set of work varianza t1s for the v35 coupe in 20x9.5 front and 20x11 rear with +25 offsets all round for bembro clearance and maximum lip. Only problem now is i cant find suitable tyres here in syd (without spending a fortune anyway). I decided to go with the falken fk452 all round as i can get them for $350 a corner fitted an balanced and have heard nothing but good things about these. However i cant get the sizes i want. Ive been told 255/30/20 and 285/30/20 is the way to go and after doing my own research including tire size/wheel calculators etc i found these sizes to be the best for not rubbing the guards (by the way im lowered on tein s-tech's and have rear camber kit and rear guards rolled) and they are also the best for being the closet to the stock wheel/tyre diameter. But i can only get the fronts in 245/35/20 and my tire shop said this should be fine?? im just worried that with these being slightly taller by about 2% that my front guards will rub and that 245's will look to stretched on a 9.5in rim. I can purchase the 255/30's in nankangs for considerably less then the Falkens but i would prefer to have all 4 tyres the same. Appreciate any help or opinions! cheers!

Edited by jonnnsyr33
Link to comment
Share on other sites
rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

255/30/20 and 285/30/20 sounds about right. I use 245/35/19 & 275/35/19 on the 19s....

I reckon 245 is on the minimum side for 9.5" wide rims. it may still be legal depending on how your sidewall reacts, but for extra rim protection, try at least 255 or 265.

I had my front 245 on 8.5" wide and there's hardly any sidewall protection, I would imagine on a 9.5" 245 will look a bit stretched (unless you want a JDM style VIP look)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jonnnsyr33 Contributor

jonnnsyr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
255/30/20 and 285/30/20 sounds about right. I use 245/35/19 & 275/35/19 on the 19s....

I reckon 245 is on the minimum side for 9.5" wide rims. it may still be legal depending on how your sidewall reacts, but for extra rim protection, try at least 255 or 265.

I had my front 245 on 8.5" wide and there's hardly any sidewall protection, I would imagine on a 9.5" 245 will look a bit stretched (unless you want a JDM style VIP look)

nah im not a big fan of the stretch look at all. but even 285 on an 11in rim will be a tad stretched so maybe a 245 on a 9.5 will look similar. I could just be patient and wait until someone stocks the 255/30's but i really want these rims on :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
str8g Contributor

str8g

Posted
Posted
After doing countless hours of research or rims and tyres i finally bit the bullet and purchased a set of work varianza t1s for the v35 coupe in 20x9.5 front and 20x11 rear with +25 offsets all round for bembro clearance and maximum lip. Only problem now is i cant find suitable tyres here in syd (without spending a fortune anyway). I decided to go with the falken fk452 all round as i can get them for $350 a corner fitted an balanced and have heard nothing but good things about these. However i cant get the sizes i want. Ive been told 255/30/20 and 285/30/20 is the way to go and after doing my own research including tire size/wheel calculators etc i found these sizes to be the best for not rubbing the guards (by the way im lowered on tein s-tech's and have rear camber kit and rear guards rolled) and they are also the best for being the closet to the stock wheel/tyre diameter. But i can only get the fronts in 245/35/20 and my tire shop said this should be fine?? im just worried that with these being slightly taller by about 2% that my front guards will rub and that 245's will look to stretched on a 9.5in rim. I can purchase the 255/30's in nankangs for considerably less then the Falkens but i would prefer to have all 4 tyres the same. Appreciate any help or opinions! cheers!

Hey..that sounds pretty tough.. i dont know whether this will help.. but i have 20x8.5 fronts and 20x10 rears. On the front i have 245/35 and i didnt like the look because it has too much tyre (meaning that if i got a 245/30 they would have been perfect). Having said that i think they would look perfect on 20x9. Not sure whether you will be over stretching them, but on the other had i have a friend of mine running 19x9.5 on 235/40 and 19x10.5 on 265/35 JDM style. They look good appart from the scratches on the rim..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
53XYN Veteran

53XYN

Posted
Posted

fronts can handle 245/30/20's without a problem unless you have lowered your car or thinking of lowering then go 235/30/20 which i have , rears you cant go 285 without guard rolling (when lowering) if you have lowered it without rolling your guard you can fit 275/30/20 rears without a problem no scraps no bloody annoying platis rubs etc.. after having owned dunlops i went for kumohs kr19s (semi track tires) am i suprised ! these things grip like nothing else ! softer compound around about 290-320 each .. from stylish wheels... as his the khumo stockists

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Wilby Newbie

Wilby

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, just wondering with all these big wheels and different tyre sizes, does it affect VDC and will it muck up the computer so VDC kicks in at the wrong times (or too often)?

I've been told to stick within 5% factory tyre sizes to avoid VDC issues (?!!)

Edited by Wilby
Link to comment
Share on other sites
rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

VDC only kicks in when you loose traction, I think as long as the increase in rear to front tyres are proportional to standard sizes, don't think that will be an issue. If you have an AWD like GTR, you will need all 4 tyres with exactly the same size to ensure that the VDC system didn't detect speed difference between from and rear and thinking the car has lost traction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      My BMW 335i

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Of course sometimes you cannot go with the cheaper alternative but I try to weigh it up for the application - am I competing or am I going to the track ten times p/yr. As long as there’s enough information out there to back the cheaper alternative as a good option I’ll go for that.   I’m a bit of a bastard though as it’s my job to reduce costs, particularly on non income generating assets. EUR 500 saved for the diff + EUR 1,000 saved on BC racing over Bilstein and then say EUR 300 versus EUR 600 on an off brand windscreen versus OEM (for example) soon accumulates. I mean, I’m probably gonna put the car in the ditch anyway. Absolutely do not take this as a justification for always buying cheap shitty parts, just a rationale for doing your research and considering what’s necessary for your application.    
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.
    • MrStabby
      ATTESSA and pressure switches

      By MrStabby · Posted

      Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?
    • GTSBoy
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Won't be.
    • GTSBoy
      In Need if Help with Signal lights: Constant on

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That is a dead f**king short of B+ to ground. Scary.
×
×
  • Create New...