Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

For light yellowing, you can get away with a product that Just Jap sells. It is a japanese polish specifically for headlights, with japanese writing all over it. You can also use a generic headlight/plastic polish from companies like 'Mothers', it will do the job, but is slower and requires a lot more patience than the Just Jap tube. In the old days we used to use toothpaste and then car polish. The old 750cc Suzuki two strokes [waterbottles] had a plastic lens on the speedo and tacho, the toothpaste/polish thing worked fine [probably prevented decay and gave a fresh mint finish as well.......lol].

I bought a tube of that plastic cleaner Just Jap sells. Works great! Only used bout 1/4 of the tube and requires very little effort to remove the yellowing. I found paper towl from out the kitchen works best to apply it with.

  • 4 months later...

i used meguires scatch-x on mine with a woolen buffing pad on the drill. took longer to find the extension lead than it did to polish the lights up. took about 10 seconds a light and very little energy.

Does anyone know if the R34 Plastic headlight covers can be ordered as separate parts direct from Nissan? (simply the cover itself)

Even at $200/300 a Pop Id be quite interested in replacing them wile the car undergoes a full paint job.

Well for starters I did mine the old fashion way called up my mechanic back in Singapore. And he taught my the old way before the polish for this and that came along.

1) Tube of toothpaste

2) Motorised Car polisher if you have 1 if not your arm will do.

3) Apply on headlights and alittle water (like brushing your teeth)

4) You will start seeing the toothpaste (foam) start turning yellow.

5) After you are satisfied wash of with water and have a look if its crystal clear and no more yellow to your standard (if not continue again)

Cheap and easy way. I did it it removes all scratches and yellow on the lens and have lasted my now for more than a year no problems.

Toothpaste have got sanding effect as they contain microscopic beads to help remove our plague from our teeth. So its sanding power is finer and purer and have no worries about if you sand too much of the coraser sand paper or not leaving us in a limbo when doing it. For toothpaste as its so so so so fine you have no worrys. Try it and you'll see the result and peace of mind when doing this.

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

i think the idea of taking the time to rub it back with fine fine sand paper, or the toothpaste, or both is to remove the yellow, not just make it shiney till its gone. sanding them back as he has will make the yellow stay away alot longer than just polishing them up.

when i bought my car they just polished them up with the car, worked fine, but came back fast. since then ive sanded and polished mine too. months later still looks sweeeet.

i think the idea of taking the time to rub it back with fine fine sand paper, or the toothpaste, or both is to remove the yellow, not just make it shiney till its gone. sanding them back as he has will make the yellow stay away alot longer than just polishing them up.

when i bought my car they just polished them up with the car, worked fine, but came back fast. since then ive sanded and polished mine too. months later still looks sweeeet.

Indeed. I guarantee it will last longer than just polishing them up with Plastx. It's been almost a full year with no signs of going yellow.

Here's another set I did for all the non-believers

Before:

22515927.th.jpg 14430952.th.jpg 66026387.th.jpg

After:

20034813.th.jpg 86105010.th.jpg 18629866.th.jpg

Edited by Chang

the toothpaste tip sounds ok , but ive tried autosol, cut an polish, and they yellow comes back pretty quick in my opinion . think ill try the wet paper , maybe the toothpaste too , yellow headlights sh|t me ...

  • 1 month later...

I gave the headlights in my 33 the treatment a couple of weeks ago... and I must say... WOW!!! They really look like totally different lights! They were REALLY foggy, did the 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit sandpaper trick then polished with Meguires PlasticX I think it is... came up looking like brand new! Unfortunately I didn't take any 'before' shots to compare to...

Here's a shot from a while ago... not that obvious but see how the front of the lense is very visible...

100_0115.jpg

And here's a couple after the sanding/polishing... notice how the front lense is now practically clear?

100_0481.jpg

100_0482.jpg

A LOT more noticable in real life... especially when you remember what it was like beforehand... I really wish I took before/after photos for comparison!

i think i f**ked my lights up!.

did all the steps right but when i used the megs plastx it totally fogged up my lights worse then ever!! and i did it over 2 times..

help anyone please!! and it seems to be permanent now, only did 1 side tho so thats even more f**ked lol..

Edited by peshays

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...