Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have owned the GTR for about 2 years now and have blow 2 lots of turbos in that time. Being a poor bastard and liking the stock power I replaced them with stock ones again. That was all fine and dandy makeing about 0.9 Bar boost all day every day. The car is completly stock engine wise. Basic support mods include HKS Intercooler, HKS Exhuast and HKS BOV. Stock ECU, Injectors ect

Now heres my problem. I have been using it as my dayly driver for abit now giving it a fairly easy life putting around in traffic. Now all of a sudden it doesn't like to boost pass 0.6 bar and blows a f**k load of smoke out the back. Missfires and doesn't go very fast. The car still revs to 7.5k, idles fine, builds boost quickly as well. Smokey ilde sometimes.

I have checked the following -

  1. Blocked BOV - Didnt notice and different
  2. Checked all pipping - intercooler hoses and fuel lines - all ok here
  3. Reset ECU - no change
  4. Checked for shity fuel with water in it. Flushed tank - still the same

Going to do a compression test this weekend will report back with what i find, the problem is i have done alot of research and it points to a leaking intercooler pipe. Checked all the piping a million times now and still nothing comes up.

I also can't take it to a machinic because i live in a small rural town full of FORDs and Holdens and the mechs scratch there heads with my car. My last resort will be chucking it in the back or a trailer and taking it to HyperDrive MS.

Cheers, :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249980-r32-gtr-with-black-smokemiss-fire/
Share on other sites

black smoke is excess fuel

checked AFM's? Mine started to occasional stall whilst on light load. needed cleaning and now all good, better + better throttle response.

Checked plugs / gaps / leads ?? with increased boost the spark can be 'blown' out with a large gap/stuffed plug as boost increases

yeh can imagine very few nissan turbos floating round in gero :P

Yep only r32 GTR in town. Makes it hard sometimes....

New spark plaugs were graped to .08? or .8? one of the two. AFM are a bitch to get to will check tomorrow.

Could it be a piston that is stuffed?

Thanks for the hints.

Dont know the gaps of the top of my head, never replaced/regapped mine, do a search

the problem doesnt sound mechanical as you said the car idles fine/normal & builds boost as per normal.

am thinking a boost leak but you've said you already checked all hoses. could be a stuck open bov.

you've dropped 0.3 bar all of a sudden and theres misfiring, spluttering so am thikning theres still 0.9bar worth of fuel going in

Edited by Mike__
Dont know the gaps of the top of my head, never replaced/regapped mine, do a search

the problem doesnt sound mechanical as you said the car idles fine/normal & builds boost as per normal.

am thinking a boost leak but you've said you already checked all hoses. could be a stuck open bov.

you've dropped 0.3 bar all of a sudden and theres misfiring, spluttering so am thikning theres still 0.9bar worth of fuel going in

Just for a update the car is struggling to idle now, blowing black smoke on idle. Car still revs fine but with alot of miss fire.

Compression test will tell whats wrong.

hey white boy, your not the bloke with the blue gtr that i raced a few months back in my white one??

Yer man... had a few goodies since then. Now she is stuffed, hardly idles and blows white and blue smoke now...

Yer man... had a few goodies since then. Now she is stuffed, hardly idles and blows white and blue smoke now...

definently comp test it.

white smoke is unburnt fuel and blue is oil smoke.

almost sounds like a hole in a piston..

Just to correct that,

White smoke is coolant

Black is Petrol

Blue is oil

what ever mate.

EXCESS fuel is black smoke.

UNBURNT fuel from not unuf compression or no spark is white smoke.

water smoke is steam not smoke.

what ever mate.

EXCESS fuel is black smoke.

UNBURNT fuel from not unuf compression or no spark is white smoke.

water smoke is steam not smoke.

So now compression test is next....

If it is a piston that is stuffed is it possible to do a RB30 NA swap over? Any good guids out? I have found the PDF but it skipped alot of things like ECU ect....

[if it is a piston that is stuffed is it possible to do a RB30 NA swap over? Any good guids out? I have found the PDF but it skipped alot of things like ECU ect....

im thinking of doing an rb30 conversion as well, we'll have to have another drag after, lol

[if it is a piston that is stuffed is it possible to do a RB30 NA swap over? Any good guids out? I have found the PDF but it skipped alot of things like ECU ect....

im thinking of doing an rb30 conversion as well, we'll have to have another drag after, lol

compression test done

  • 1st 140
  • 2nd 140
  • 3rd 150
  • 4th 150
  • 5th 130
  • 6th 130

All rough figures being noob at it doesn't help. Give or take 5PSI. So what does this mean? Everything ok? I'm leaning towards the turbos now. Is there any way to check?

Do a diagnostic search, could easily be an AFM or cas or igniter.

Ok how do i check the AFM? I have unpluged them and notice both times the car nearly stalling but car ran the same. Do i need to clean them? If so what with? I have the stock air box and just a panel filter.

CAS? Crank angle sensor? is that on the front of the engine? Unpluged that and the car didn't start. Pluged it back in and the car was the same.

Fuel. Don't know how i'm spose to check the fuel pressure. I will ask my mech mate tomorrow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...