Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have owned the GTR for about 2 years now and have blow 2 lots of turbos in that time. Being a poor bastard and liking the stock power I replaced them with stock ones again. That was all fine and dandy makeing about 0.9 Bar boost all day every day. The car is completly stock engine wise. Basic support mods include HKS Intercooler, HKS Exhuast and HKS BOV. Stock ECU, Injectors ect

Now heres my problem. I have been using it as my dayly driver for abit now giving it a fairly easy life putting around in traffic. Now all of a sudden it doesn't like to boost pass 0.6 bar and blows a f**k load of smoke out the back. Missfires and doesn't go very fast. The car still revs to 7.5k, idles fine, builds boost quickly as well. Smokey ilde sometimes.

I have checked the following -

  1. Blocked BOV - Didnt notice and different
  2. Checked all pipping - intercooler hoses and fuel lines - all ok here
  3. Reset ECU - no change
  4. Checked for shity fuel with water in it. Flushed tank - still the same

Going to do a compression test this weekend will report back with what i find, the problem is i have done alot of research and it points to a leaking intercooler pipe. Checked all the piping a million times now and still nothing comes up.

I also can't take it to a machinic because i live in a small rural town full of FORDs and Holdens and the mechs scratch there heads with my car. My last resort will be chucking it in the back or a trailer and taking it to HyperDrive MS.

Cheers, :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249980-r32-gtr-with-black-smokemiss-fire/
Share on other sites

black smoke is excess fuel

checked AFM's? Mine started to occasional stall whilst on light load. needed cleaning and now all good, better + better throttle response.

Checked plugs / gaps / leads ?? with increased boost the spark can be 'blown' out with a large gap/stuffed plug as boost increases

yeh can imagine very few nissan turbos floating round in gero :P

Yep only r32 GTR in town. Makes it hard sometimes....

New spark plaugs were graped to .08? or .8? one of the two. AFM are a bitch to get to will check tomorrow.

Could it be a piston that is stuffed?

Thanks for the hints.

Dont know the gaps of the top of my head, never replaced/regapped mine, do a search

the problem doesnt sound mechanical as you said the car idles fine/normal & builds boost as per normal.

am thinking a boost leak but you've said you already checked all hoses. could be a stuck open bov.

you've dropped 0.3 bar all of a sudden and theres misfiring, spluttering so am thikning theres still 0.9bar worth of fuel going in

Edited by Mike__
Dont know the gaps of the top of my head, never replaced/regapped mine, do a search

the problem doesnt sound mechanical as you said the car idles fine/normal & builds boost as per normal.

am thinking a boost leak but you've said you already checked all hoses. could be a stuck open bov.

you've dropped 0.3 bar all of a sudden and theres misfiring, spluttering so am thikning theres still 0.9bar worth of fuel going in

Just for a update the car is struggling to idle now, blowing black smoke on idle. Car still revs fine but with alot of miss fire.

Compression test will tell whats wrong.

hey white boy, your not the bloke with the blue gtr that i raced a few months back in my white one??

Yer man... had a few goodies since then. Now she is stuffed, hardly idles and blows white and blue smoke now...

Yer man... had a few goodies since then. Now she is stuffed, hardly idles and blows white and blue smoke now...

definently comp test it.

white smoke is unburnt fuel and blue is oil smoke.

almost sounds like a hole in a piston..

Just to correct that,

White smoke is coolant

Black is Petrol

Blue is oil

what ever mate.

EXCESS fuel is black smoke.

UNBURNT fuel from not unuf compression or no spark is white smoke.

water smoke is steam not smoke.

what ever mate.

EXCESS fuel is black smoke.

UNBURNT fuel from not unuf compression or no spark is white smoke.

water smoke is steam not smoke.

So now compression test is next....

If it is a piston that is stuffed is it possible to do a RB30 NA swap over? Any good guids out? I have found the PDF but it skipped alot of things like ECU ect....

[if it is a piston that is stuffed is it possible to do a RB30 NA swap over? Any good guids out? I have found the PDF but it skipped alot of things like ECU ect....

im thinking of doing an rb30 conversion as well, we'll have to have another drag after, lol

[if it is a piston that is stuffed is it possible to do a RB30 NA swap over? Any good guids out? I have found the PDF but it skipped alot of things like ECU ect....

im thinking of doing an rb30 conversion as well, we'll have to have another drag after, lol

compression test done

  • 1st 140
  • 2nd 140
  • 3rd 150
  • 4th 150
  • 5th 130
  • 6th 130

All rough figures being noob at it doesn't help. Give or take 5PSI. So what does this mean? Everything ok? I'm leaning towards the turbos now. Is there any way to check?

Do a diagnostic search, could easily be an AFM or cas or igniter.

Ok how do i check the AFM? I have unpluged them and notice both times the car nearly stalling but car ran the same. Do i need to clean them? If so what with? I have the stock air box and just a panel filter.

CAS? Crank angle sensor? is that on the front of the engine? Unpluged that and the car didn't start. Pluged it back in and the car was the same.

Fuel. Don't know how i'm spose to check the fuel pressure. I will ask my mech mate tomorrow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...