Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr Factory Remote Central Locking Woes

aphid

By aphid,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys,

As the topic suggests I'm having a few dramas with the factory cental locking system in my 1999 R34 GTR. I'm currently installing a new alarm into the GTR as the old alarm was an extremely dodgy install. The previous install used an aftermarket solenoid tek screwed into the door, however I'm 99% sure the existing box installed in the door hooked upto the locking system not only acts as the sensor to activate the solenoid on the passengers door but also as a solenoid for the remote central locking (I only got one factory GTR key with the car which I'm assuming is a spare as it doesn't have any remote central locking buttons on it, but being a GTR you'd assume it did infact come from the factory with remote central locking).

I can find the Lock and Unlock wires that trigger the passenger door (from the low current side of the relay) however I'm at a loss in where to find these wires for the drivers side.

I've looked through a few circuit diagrams I could dig up on the internet and I now think the solenoid in the drivers door is powered from the factory immobiliser box.

I have the R34 service manual translated into english I dug up on the internet but it's only got the GT-T immobiliser pinouts in it :laugh: The GTR appears to have a different box..

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give,

Marcus

:down:

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

GTT & GTR run the same body harness :laugh:

there are 2 actuators in the doors anyway as the std remote entry works. as fo doing it and grabbing the triggers - got a meter and electronics knowledge? you will need to find,split and modify the remote entry unit.

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it's a little more confusing than that.. the GTR is setup differently to the GTT.

there are 3 separate boxes controlling the remote central locking & immobiliser

the first is the actual immobiliser box itself, the second is the relay box for the passengers side of the central locking inside the car, the third looks like a relay for something else (thought it might be for the drivers door but it's only got 3 wires)

this second box is connected to a sensor inside the solenoid box in the drivers door that is triggered when the drivers door is unlocked or locked, then triggers the solenoid in the passengers door accordingly.

the triggers for the solenoid inside the drivers door are attached to something else, and according to the service manual they're attached through the dash cluster (about 60 wires) into a "remote central locking C/U". the "remote central locking C/U" box shown in the manual is the one that is in a GT-T, and the GT-R is physically a different shape to what is shown in the manual and the plug has a vastly different pin configuration (the GTR has an immobiliser box instead).

it would be alot easier if i had a remote that would work with the stock central locking system, as then i'd be able to measure voltage on the different wires to determine which ones were the triggers.

guess the next step is really to measure the impedance across the solenoid itself then start looking for similar impedance across random pins on the immobiliser box and earth or start hacking apart the loom and tracing :laugh:

i was really hoping that somebody had the pinouts for the GT-R immobiliser box stashed somewhere but ah well :down:

anyway sorry for the rant,

merry christmas all!!

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

white box above left knee - split it and find the two doides side by side on the board . pulse with a test light. solder wires to those points and configure the alarm as neg trigger. no need to strip the harness.

apart from the NATS 2.8 unit its wired the same (to me anyway.)as a 34 GTT.

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 years later...
lordwolfblade Newbie

lordwolfblade

Posted
Posted

I've got an after market keyless entry and immobiliser but cant seem to hook up the doors properly can you help me out with a wiring diagram or give me an idea on where the central locking module is. I only need to hook up two wires.

  • 4 years later...
  • 7 months later...
etang789 Community Regular

etang789

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 12/25/2008 at 4:29 AM, Chris Rogers said:

white box above left knee - split it and find the two doides side by side on the board . pulse with a test light. solder wires to those points and configure the alarm as neg trigger. no need to strip the harness.

apart from the NATS 2.8 unit its wired the same (to me anyway.)as a 34 GTT.

Not sure if I got them correctly, here is what I have done according to here, 

IMG_0803.JPG

IMG_0801.JPG

Edited by etang789

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...