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R34 Gtr Factory Remote Central Locking Woes


aphid
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Hey Guys,

As the topic suggests I'm having a few dramas with the factory cental locking system in my 1999 R34 GTR. I'm currently installing a new alarm into the GTR as the old alarm was an extremely dodgy install. The previous install used an aftermarket solenoid tek screwed into the door, however I'm 99% sure the existing box installed in the door hooked upto the locking system not only acts as the sensor to activate the solenoid on the passengers door but also as a solenoid for the remote central locking (I only got one factory GTR key with the car which I'm assuming is a spare as it doesn't have any remote central locking buttons on it, but being a GTR you'd assume it did infact come from the factory with remote central locking).

I can find the Lock and Unlock wires that trigger the passenger door (from the low current side of the relay) however I'm at a loss in where to find these wires for the drivers side.

I've looked through a few circuit diagrams I could dig up on the internet and I now think the solenoid in the drivers door is powered from the factory immobiliser box.

I have the R34 service manual translated into english I dug up on the internet but it's only got the GT-T immobiliser pinouts in it :laugh: The GTR appears to have a different box..

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give,

Marcus

:down:

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GTT & GTR run the same body harness :laugh:

there are 2 actuators in the doors anyway as the std remote entry works. as fo doing it and grabbing the triggers - got a meter and electronics knowledge? you will need to find,split and modify the remote entry unit.

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it's a little more confusing than that.. the GTR is setup differently to the GTT.

there are 3 separate boxes controlling the remote central locking & immobiliser

the first is the actual immobiliser box itself, the second is the relay box for the passengers side of the central locking inside the car, the third looks like a relay for something else (thought it might be for the drivers door but it's only got 3 wires)

this second box is connected to a sensor inside the solenoid box in the drivers door that is triggered when the drivers door is unlocked or locked, then triggers the solenoid in the passengers door accordingly.

the triggers for the solenoid inside the drivers door are attached to something else, and according to the service manual they're attached through the dash cluster (about 60 wires) into a "remote central locking C/U". the "remote central locking C/U" box shown in the manual is the one that is in a GT-T, and the GT-R is physically a different shape to what is shown in the manual and the plug has a vastly different pin configuration (the GTR has an immobiliser box instead).

it would be alot easier if i had a remote that would work with the stock central locking system, as then i'd be able to measure voltage on the different wires to determine which ones were the triggers.

guess the next step is really to measure the impedance across the solenoid itself then start looking for similar impedance across random pins on the immobiliser box and earth or start hacking apart the loom and tracing :laugh:

i was really hoping that somebody had the pinouts for the GT-R immobiliser box stashed somewhere but ah well :down:

anyway sorry for the rant,

merry christmas all!!

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white box above left knee - split it and find the two doides side by side on the board . pulse with a test light. solder wires to those points and configure the alarm as neg trigger. no need to strip the harness.

apart from the NATS 2.8 unit its wired the same (to me anyway.)as a 34 GTT.

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  • 3 years later...

I've got an after market keyless entry and immobiliser but cant seem to hook up the doors properly can you help me out with a wiring diagram or give me an idea on where the central locking module is. I only need to hook up two wires.

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  • 4 years later...
  • 7 months later...
On 12/25/2008 at 4:29 AM, Chris Rogers said:

white box above left knee - split it and find the two doides side by side on the board . pulse with a test light. solder wires to those points and configure the alarm as neg trigger. no need to strip the harness.

apart from the NATS 2.8 unit its wired the same (to me anyway.)as a 34 GTT.

Not sure if I got them correctly, here is what I have done according to here, 

IMG_0803.JPG

IMG_0801.JPG

Edited by etang789
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