Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pumped, come on RBR, hopefully Brawn have dropped the ball a little with latest aero and the top 6 is the 2 x RBRs, the two Toyotas and Rosberg and Alonso. :)

Be awesome if Webebr can get to within striking distance of Rubens.... should i be hoping for rain on race day? :P ... because P3 is wet :D

http://footballclubonline.com/ch1.html

  • Replies 2.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hamilton out in Q1. Ego has to be bruised.

Once again pat on the back for Nakajima, assuming his racing concentration improves he looks like the fastest Japanese driver in F1 for a while (or ever??).

Edited by wolverine

Session ended and Vettel pips Webber ... again :(

But Webber just did the one early run and looked supreme on the hard tyres. Its going to be interesting Q3! :) RBR look to have the sort of advantage Brawn had in Australia, assuming the soft tyres are worth a few tenths ists going to be a two car race :) Awesome ! :)

Webber is going to need a very good start to give himself a chance of winning the race. Vettel looks on track for another race win with his fuel load and options this opens up.

1. Sebastian Vettel, Red Bull, 666.5 kg

2. Rubens Barrichello, Brawn GP, 657.5

3. Mark Webber, Red Bull, 659.5

4. Jarno Trulli, Toyota, 658

5. Kazuki Nakajima, Williams, 652.5

6. Jenson Button, Brawn GP, 657.5

7. Nico Rosberg, Williams, 661.5

8. Timo Glock, Toyota, 660

9. Kimi Raikkonen, Ferrari, 654

10. Fernando Alonso, Renault, 654

11. Felipe Massa, Ferrari, 675

12. Robert Kubica, BMW Sauber, 689.5

13. Heikki Kovalainen, McLaren, 695.5

14. Nelson Piquet, Renault, 682.5

15. Nick Heidfeld, BMW Sauber, 665.5

16. Giancarlo Fisichella, Force India, 668

17. Sebastien Bourdais, Toro Rosso, 687.5

18. Adrian Sutil, Force India, 692

19. Lewis Hamilton, McLaren, 666

20. Sebastien Buemi, Toro Rosso, 672.5

I applaud you guys being patriotic and all but lets get realistic here, Mark was already slower than Vettel in the first sector before he came across Kimi on that lap. Excuses excuses.... Karma's a bitch innit!

Great lap from Vettel considering he's is going to go for the longest in the first stint tonight, and it looks as though RBR haven't compromised his strategy for this GP either.

look,im almost as biger MW fan as Roy, but what you are saying is correct, SV is generally quicker in qualifying, He just has to be more consistent during the race. Thats where MW is still a more superior drver. put it down to experience or what ever but MW is driving better so far this season. SV is still young and has a massive career infront of him.

I applaud you guys being patriotic and all but lets get realistic here, Mark was already slower than Vettel in the first sector before he came across Kimi on that lap. Excuses excuses.... Karma's a bitch innit!

Great lap from Vettel considering he's is going to go for the longest in the first stint tonight, and it looks as though RBR haven't compromised his strategy for this GP either.

look,im almost as biger MW fan as Roy, but what you are saying is correct, SV is generally quicker in qualifying, He just has to be more consistent during the race. Thats where MW is still a more superior drver. put it down to experience or what ever but MW is driving better so far this season. SV is still young and has a massive career infront of him.

Sorry I can't agree. I think the difference is that RBR have compromised Vettel with the race strategies they've adopted. IMHO (not trying to start a flame war) Vettel is a far superior driver than Mark

Mark would have easily potted the front row if not for Kimi. Would it have been first or second? He was slower then Vettel in sector 1, but with his lighter fuel load he could have used that weight advantage to pull back the 0.013 or whatever it was. But point is he would have had a shot at the lead from the front row, he is now 3rd back and lighter with fuel then those ahead of him.

Only hope is the first lap has a few dramas and Webber can slip ahead for a few laps to see if he can do a dash. I dare think that even if Webber can get to teh front. lol remember what he did with his P2 last year at Slverstone :P he wont be able to do a dash and be ahead after the first round of stops. :P

Anyway, at least he is up there, and really looks like he is racing for that 3rd step at the moment :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...