Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

once again i am faced with another problem and before it goes to the mechanics just thought i would try and get a grip and see what im dealing with

The Radiator hose that connects from radiator to the engine to keep it cool has popped off twice within a week now...first time the air con was on and figured this was the reason and was gona get my mechanic to look at it when the next service was due...it pretty much popped off and coolant went everywhere all over the engine bay but i fixed it all up put coolant bak in and it was fine but on xmas day whilst driving down westall rd the car started making funny noise when taking off and i started seeing smoke which turned out to be steam coming from engine bay and quickly pulled over as soon as the temperature gauge started rising...

oped it up and same hose popped off but no air con was on so now im abit concerned...people have been saying my thermostat is F***ED which im guessing would be a big job as it looks as if its in the engine block....

anyone had this problem and what was the soloution?

ive checked the clamp and it was dead tight so its building up pressure in the hose from somewhere

thanks people

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250368-skyline-overheating/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If the hose is popping off then it's either the clamp, the connection between the hose and the radiator connecting pipe (the metal part sticking out of the radiator that the hose slides over).

Check the surface of the metal radiator pipe and make sure it's clean, you might also need a new rubber hose as the existing one may be stretched/stuffed. You say the clamp is dead tight, is it an old one? new ones are cheap as shit so try that also.

If the thermostat is not opening up then the car would run very hot very fast and that shouldn't cause the pipe to bust off. If the thermo was stuck open the car would take a month of Sundays to warm up and the pipe would have no reason to pop off either. What you have is a weak point in a highly pressurised system, that weak point is where it keeps popping off.

If it keeps popping off then you start there, try cleaning the metal pipe from the radiator, try and new clamp, and try a new pipe if that fails.

If the radiator cap was faulty it would be leaking from there and venting coolant everywhere from the cap itself so that shouldn't be the issue.

Let us know how you go, it should be a simple fix.

well today i changed the hose clamp and put some coolant in their to do me over until it gets to the mechanics and i have it flushed completely

ill see what the mechanic reckons but will keep you posted just so u's know for future reference

thanks for the help people

also did u bleed the cooling system when u replaced the coolant?

probably wouldnt cause ur problem but will make the car overheat if it isnt done properly.

It probably will be to do with that pipe but as ActionDan said thermostat alone wont do it. Possibly the cap if its stuck closed for some reason but that ones a bit sketchy

well...it doesnt heat up quickly...the last time it done it i was travelling down the frankston freeway and then onto westall road and when i got the end of westall rd thats when it started going up....i didnt bleed the radiator to be honest but ill get the mechanic to do it and see what he reckons which should be by thursday....its really difficult to tell because the other time it happened it was a hot day and i had the air con first time since i had the car and it came off down nepean hwy on the way to southland....i just figured first time on not much water in the car to run it so i figured thats ok replaced everything but then happened again so now its a concern....im going to drive it tomorrow and see how it goes...will keep posted when i figure out what problem is...ill try and get a new radiator cap aswell see f that helps

The connecting clip is faulty, a new cap is required or there's a block in the system causing excessive pressure.

Hopefully you haven't blown/damaged the head yet, either!

which connecting clip are you talking about....the one that connects the hose to the radiator?

and yes i pray i havnt damaged the head yet...is it advised not to drive it?

yeah it shouldnt blow hoses just cause its hot

my gauge sits at about halfway constantly when its warm just for reference, where abouts was yours sitting?

Bleeding the cooling system is easy it just involves filling the radiator up with coolant and undoing the bleed screw on the plenum (has never open when hot written on a little sticker next to it i believe, at the front of the plenum up top) and then just running the car till u get some coolant coming out fairly constantly and the radiatornot taking any more coolant

i dare say the system wasnt flushed after changing coolant one time or something and youve got a blockage because of it

The temperature gauge normally sits a fraction under halfway so that is all good, I think I'll bleed the coolant out so thanks for the advice on how to do it dude, everyone keeps saying it has to be a block but I'm holding off driving it ATM till the mechanic opens again thank god I kept my Honda LOL

If it's not a blocked radiator try putting silicone hoses and new clamps on, don't use cheap ones get the same style ones as your intercooler piping uses, but I once had a hose pop off at 120km/h it was due to air build up in the system, so bleed it from air as well (and I know it wasn't blockages because the radiator was a brand new aluminium one at the time)

There's a little valve which you open, another way to bleed the air is after you've filled the coolent up again, leave the radiator cap off, and let her get to operating temp heater on full blast helps, so just let it get to about 77degrees then put the cap on again, it's a good idea to do this once in a while before you start the car unless you want a blast of coolent. Or install a radiator breather tank so the air pockets always get released.

Also replacing the thermostat is an easy job the thermostat is located at the end of the top/bottom hose, I can't remember because it was a while ago for me, you just need a knife to fish it out as it's stuck via gasket goo + there's a few bolts as well But a mechanic will be able to get it out within 10 minutes

Edited by DaGr81

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...