Jump to content
SAU Community

Would This Set Up Be Any Good For My Std Rb25det

CrankyGTS11

By CrankyGTS11,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

CrankyGTS11 Enthusiast

CrankyGTS11

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ive been looking for a decent turbo for my 25 and not sure if this kit would be the way to go.. has just about everything i need except the PFC (which i have sitting here)

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/R33-R34-SKYLINE-RB2...A1%7C240%3A1318

it seems like a good price as it has most stuff??

Wat do u guys think?? wouldit be laggy?

MY supporting mods:

Power FC

3" system from turbo back

FMIC

Forward Facing Plenum

Bosch 044 Fuel pump

555cc Inj (inc in kit)

Z32 AFM (in kit)

Low Mount manifold (in kit)

Ray

Edited by CrankyGTS11
CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
Posted

listing your mods would be good, I'm tossing up between the gtrs and the 3706r atm, from what i've read boost will come on later but if you have the right supporting mods you'll have full boost by 4000.

no point getting the turbo if you dont have the mods to support it

edit: do a search on the turbo and you'll find out about other peoples experiences as well.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted (edited)

not a bad piece of kit, things I would not use -

1. Leave your factory FPR on, don't bother with the adjustable.

2. Check the manifold, if its cheap chinese, it will crack. Maybe sell it and use your cast manifold.

3. Clean and flow the injectors.

I'm running one of these turbos, factory manifolds (intake and exhaust) Nismo 555cc injectors, and a q45 afm with water meth injection, and I get over 300rwkw.

Edited by The Mafia
swarzee Explorer

swarzee

Posted
Posted

Hey mate, thats a nice kit you found there. I have a r34 gt-t and im in the middle of saving for the same turbo/kit. My tuner told me this turbo is the only way to go if your chasing around 300rwkw on stock motor. He has installed a few on 33's and they all go hard and sound wicked. Im no expert but i would recommend the turbo choice. I can't wait to get one on my skyline :spank:

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

If you use

"3076" in the search, you'll find dozens of threads. Some have a lot of technical info, and others (like The Mafia's build thread) contain nice easy to read information.

Please have a go @ the search results as its basically the turbo most used/talked about in 2008 for RB25's

Thanks

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

If you use

"3076" in the search, you'll find dozens of threads. Some have a lot of technical info, and others (like The Mafia's build thread) contain nice easy to read information.

Please have a go @ the search results as its basically the turbo most used/talked about in 2008 for RB25's

Thanks

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...