Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im not sure. The only thing he said was something about the ECU going back to the battery and not the alternator. The only problem i have is if i winge too much he could easily change a few figures in the ecu and either detune it, or make it a time bomb waiting to happen. I think this time as times in the past when i have been burnt by workshops is to just pay it and never go there again.

Here is the dyno sheets that $1000 of tuning got me.

And it's only running 12psi. They said they pushed the boost up but it didn't make much more power. Does this sound like B/S? The engine has forgies in it and the turbo is bigger than stock with a steel wheel. I have pushed it to 16 psi and it felt like it had much more power than 12psi. And i dont know where they pulled the 168.9kw run out off. it was making 200kw when i got there... The usuall tricks to make the figures look better. So please people that see dyno sheets all the time please tell me what you think about these.

best to list the parts you've got in there and what tune you're running on.

It's one of those things where I think the workshop will be able to justify the bill because of the amount of time spent on your car. But that's why the advice has been to take it to another workshop, because these guys may lack the experience. It could be that they took 5 hours to find a problem that would take another workshop 1 hour. So best to part ways me thinks.

Yea i will NEVER EVER go back to these muppets. I do understand that time is money and yea they could justify there time and the cost. The thing that has pissed me off the most is there was no communication!!! They kept telling me that they will look after me and that it wont cost much at all.

The mods are FMIC, electronic boost controller, turbo has been rebuilt and made bigger and a steel wheel. I think it's rated at 450hp now. bigger fuel pump, haltech interceptor. engine rebuilt with forgies.

Well i paid the bill and picked up the car. So pissed off at the company. But i have to admit the car does run well. Not $2200 worth but it is good. And i found out that dyno time was charged at around $235 and hour

So $235 per hr and they couldnt even find that it had a bad earth proplem???

Do any of you boy's/girl's get pre dyno check's done before your tune???

We do battery, power to coil, power to fuel pump and fuel flow/pressure check's before every run and add it into the bill.

Best to sort these issue's out before you waste 20-30min's to strap it down and end up with no result.

Bet there isnt a person on this site who would not have wasted days trying to find that problem. How many people who have a car that suddenly drops 150kw have a first thorght of "I wonder if the the battery terminal did it"???? The guy probably didnt charge you for half the time he wasted on it trying to diagnose someones else's substandard work. Dont forget that you now have a car that is running sweet and has had everthing on it checked and double checked. Regardless of wether you planned to spent that money or not its not wasted!! Another point to remember is if you change workshops now there is a real good chance that the first time you have a problem your NEW!! workshop will be charging you AGAIN!! to check things that you just paid this guy to do. He on the other hand will be know your car very well. No I do not have a workshop and dont know the car or the workshop from this thread. Just my two cents on a subject where it seems that most of the advise given to you is based on other people knowing everthing and your mechanic supposedly knowing nothing. Niether of these two things are true so try not to judge too unfairly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...