Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:happy: So, 2 weeks on and no news ? BTW, do you still have our money or do they ? :ninja:

Your money is safe with me. I never hand it over to them until they charge my account.

I need to play it safe for everyone's sake.

What I'm worried of is something has happened since the whole economy went into resession.

I rang and didn't get through yesterday, only a voice mail, will try again some time today.

  • Replies 447
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Whats the chance that they will arrive before the 13th? Ive got a track day on the 14th and one of my front ones is cracked so will be in real shite if they dont show up...

I've left a message on their voicemail asking my contact to call me back. If they process and ship everything by Mon-Tue next week then there's a chance you'll get it before 13th, if not then it will not make it.

Your money is safe with me. I never hand it over to them until they charge my account.

I need to play it safe for everyone's sake.

^ = ;)

What I'm worried of is something has happened since the whole economy went into resession.

I rang and didn't get through yesterday, only a voice mail, will try again some time today.

Surely SAU alone would keep them in the black :)

wow still doing these group buys lol. bought some rotors from you over a year ago.

can you pm me a price on R33 non turbo 4 stud rotors, slotted if available, if not then just normal

I'll check...

Just a word of caution, with heavier vehicles you may notice a lot of rotor wear on the fronts. My front rotors lasted the same time as the pads.

I have read that the RDA rotor are designed and manufactured to be a little softer to give better bite and stopping power but at the expense of rotor life.

They're cheap anyway so why not............

Just a word of caution, with heavier vehicles you may notice a lot of rotor wear on the fronts. My front rotors lasted the same time as the pads.

I have read that the RDA rotor are designed and manufactured to be a little softer to give better bite and stopping power but at the expense of rotor life.

They're cheap anyway so why not............

Interested to know what car have you got when this happened. I had someone said their 300ZX front rotors (gold passivated) also wears out very quick.

Oh and was yours slotted or the gold passivated grooved/dimpled?

I personally have used it on the front of R33 Gtst without any premature use (even tracked it - with greenstuff which is not really for track pads),

and currently on a V35 with redstuff pads - but I have only done 5000km in my V35 so hard to say...

So perhaps the gold passivated one is 'softer' than slotted...

This happened on my VX Calais which is quite a heavy car (read "slug") :P . The V35 is only 100 odd kg lighter so could be a candidate, although I've read it is a much better balanced vehicle so may not suffer the same fate.

the rotors were the slotted non-passivated. I've got the passivated slotted on now and well see how that goes. Has anyone tried the moly rotors?

Edited by mosoto

I am trying on the passivated rotors. If it's right then it's softer than the slotted but so far I haven't had any issues yet.

But again, V35 Skyline is 1590 kg and in a coupe the weight distribution is 53/47 front to back (in sedan it's 52/48).

It has 296mm front and 292mm rear in touring trim (non brembo) or 324mm front and 322mm rear in track / brembo form.

I have the later (brembo) size

A guy in his 300ZX said his car has 80/20 brake bias front to rear, unsure of static weight distribution on 300ZX though,

anyone know what are the brake usage on 300ZX? Worn his gold passivated rotors fairly quick as well.

The Z32 turbo has 280mm front and 297mm rear, same sizes like R32 Gtst, but I'm sure the Z32 with VG30DETT engine weighs

a lot more at the front than a single turbo R32 with RB20DET.

R32 Gts-t weighs 1260kg manual or 1280kg auto according to my JDM brochure, 300ZX is 1460kg in hatchback

or 1560kg in convertible ( targa roof ? ) form, so it is a much heavier car with an undersized OEM brakes - in my opinion

Added: as a comparison a 1340kg (man) / 1390kg (auto) R33 Gtst which is still lighter than 300ZX is already equipped with 296mm / 297mm rotors by standard. bigger diameter would logically mean less effort required to stop the car on daily use, and logically would mean the rotor should last longer.

ive got R32 gtst front brakes on my r31 with the rda slotted rotors and bendix ultimate pads (average). been on for bout year and a half now, pads are about 40% and the rotors are lipped (only slightly though definately machinable) this is mainly street driving. so yeah the rotors arent the longest lasting rotors there are.

btw did you get prices on R33 na rotors? pretty keen..

how many kms is that? just to give a rough idea how long they will last...

my stock V35 OEM front rotors were less than minimum legal - that was I assumed 49000km never replaced from japan, on a stock pads. didn't pass RWC, I needed to get a new set. The rear was lipped but legal (machineable).

I'll check on NA R33 rotors - forgotten about it.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...