Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've recently found a supplier in the states for Mahle pistons for dirt cheap. The company who are supplying them are Race-Mart.

They have the full range of Mahle pistons and prices are as follows:

RB25 86.0mm 11.5cc dome 8.5:1 CR 343g - US$635

RB25 86.5mm 11.5cc dome 8.5:1 CR 344g - US$635

RB25 87.0mm 11.5cc dome 8.5:1 CR 345g - US$635

RB26 86.5mm 16cc dome 8.5:1 CR 312g - US$869.67

RB26 87.0mm 16cc dome 8.5:1 CR 313g - US$869.67

RB26/30 hyprid 86.5mm -4.5cc dome 8.5:1 CR 320g - US$635

RB26/30 hybrid 87.0mm -4.5cc dome 8.5:1 CR 321g - US$635

All prices are excluding shipping which will be approximately US$41.95 per set of pistons.

All payments need to be made and cleared by Friday 23 January, and order will be placed that evening.

If there are any other Mahle pistons you require, let me know and i'll grab a price.

cheers

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251580-mahle-pistons-group-buy/
Share on other sites

Prices in AUD please.

MRXTCZ

Price in AUD will be dependant on the exchange rate on the 23rd, or if i place the order sooner. Main reason is i'm buying them in USD and i'm not making a cent on them and i'm certainly not going to cop extra charge if i set a price in AUD now and have it change on the 23rd.

However at the current exchange rate via xe.com, the 635 sets are ~960 delivered, and the 869.67 sets are ~1295 delivered

I will know definate shipping prices tomorrow morning, as i'm getting them to give a solid shipping quote (in USD)

Maybe a good idea to try IPP Flatlander USA (www.importperformanceparts.net), they have the following pricing:

RB26 86.5mm 16cc dome 8.5:1 CR 312g - US$769

RB26 87.0mm 16cc dome 8.5:1 CR 313g - US$769

Added to the list are EJ20 pistons:

EJ20 92.5mm -12cc dome 8:1 CR 348g - US$421.33

EJ20 93.0mm -12cc dome 8:1 CR 353g - US$421.33

Also shipping has been confirmed, shipping will be US$50 per set of pistons shipped direct to each individual.

beware all RB25 and RB26 block engines...these pistons are not direct fit.

but can be made to fit quite easily...now that i have done them and worked the best method out without having to machine the piston.

Yeh i havnt seem them in an engine first hand but i believe you have to space the oil squirter and turn it so they clear

yeah it was like a few hours fu(king around to get the 1st one worked out and 10mins to do the rest...lol.

you have to work out a happy medium between clearing the piston skirt and the crank counterweight...also between the piston bracing from the gudgeon pin to the skirt and the conrod.

yeah it was like a few hours fu(king around to get the 1st one worked out and 10mins to do the rest...lol.

you have to work out a happy medium between clearing the piston skirt and the crank counterweight...also between the piston bracing from the gudgeon pin to the skirt and the conrod.

do you have the exact spec of the spacer you used ??? it would helps us alot !!!!

thanks in advance .

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...