Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

coby extractors (about $350) - www.partsco.com

fujitsubo extractors - (about $2500) - www.takakaira.com

i only have experience with coby extractors (quite a few others on here have them) and they gave a lot more low to midrange power making the car a lot quicker for normal, everyday driving. i maybe lost a little top end power, but it may only feel like that due to the increased low to mid power (if that made sense). i highly recommend them.

i too have the coby extractors, and gregs right, low-mid is great, however i didn't notice that drop in top end - it still kicks at 4-5 thou, and stays on a little longer if anything. the 2litre might behave a bit differently though.

I was thinking about that sucking noise under power though - has anybody stood in front of the car and revved it to see where the noise is coming from? i still have the stock airbox and intake snorkel, and the noise is still quite pronounced. Might be noise of flow through the extractors themselves rather than the intake...? ill have to have a closer listen on the weekend....

what i was trying to say is that the top end power was probably unchanged but it just felt less in comparison to the power that was made available in the low to mid range. still making no sense!?

pstanbis, the sucking sound is very annoying isn't it :rofl: i was told by an exhaust shop that it is resonance in the extractors. ways to reduce the noise (by muffling the sound):

. wait for them to be coated in carbon/exhaust residue. mine quietened down after about 1500km's, but only a little.

. wrap them in exhaust wrap. i considered this but its quite expensive, if not done properly shortens the life of the extractors. its a bit of a hassle to take the extractors off, clean them of all rust etc, then paint, wrap and paint them, and then put them back on.

I was annoyed at the fact that it's very hard to run a cold air pipe from lower bumper to the filter box - coz as you all should know, the air flow through the filter goes DOWN. Instead, I got a K&N pod and made a FULLY SEALED (screws) and INSULATED heat shield from aluminium sheet and ran a 3" PVC pipe up onto the pod. Runs fantastic on the higway.

Greg,

Cripes - I'd love post a pic but I don't have a digital camera. I'll Explain it differently :

Air enters the scoop just above the radiator and flows into the top half of the filter box, passes through the filter into the bottom of the box, then runs off to the throttle body.

A cold air feed pipe normally runs from the bumper area directly into the filter box, but with the above setup the pipe it's a lot harder to get a large sized cold air pipe to feed the top half of the filter box. So I just went for a pod and a pipe that feeds the pod.

Does that explain it better?

hey greg i now have that sound ur describing. i got the resonator and middle muffler taken out of the hks system and it now sounds so bad i dont want to drive it. i went back and got a new resonator which almost cured it but the car is too quiet now, i was thinking of selling the hks system but im now not gonna bother as the new engine is on the cards.

hey john sorry to hear your exhaust sounds shit! i was considering removing the middle muffler to give it a tougher sound but now i've read that i won't bother.

i finally discovered what was making the sound, this might help you, here's the story:

I was driving along and all of a sudden my exhaust got REALLY loud. i stopped and looked under the car and sure enough mr muffler (who fitted my extractors and cat) had failed to use split washers and the bolts on the cat had vibrated loose, letting exhaust gas escape. so i drove around for a bit enjoying the exhuast note (:() and then took it home and reversed onto ramps. i removed the cat and discovered two things:

1. mr muffler had combined 2 broken gaskets to try and make a good one, it obviously failed.

2. in the cat there was heaps of little drops of weld mr muffler had failed to remove.

these 2 items were the cause of my dodgy sound - the leaky gasket and the weld droplets. so i reused an old gasket i hard lying around (it was heaps better than the ones mr muffler installed) and vacuumed all the weld droplets out of the cat. the exhaust sounds awesome now and i'm going to take a sound clip soon and post it up (just for your joe, if you're reading this :D),

cheers

greg

I was going to get some extractors soon!

Why the huge difference between coby extractors and fujitsubo extractors??

Does it make a big enough difference to warrant the noise and money?

Secondly I only have a stock exhaust and would change at the same time! What brands would be good at reasonable price?

Can any one tell me the KW given before or after? I really have no idea what the power of my NA R33 is???

  • 2 years later...
I'm thinking i'll go for the K&N panel filter and try to incorporate twin air vents on each side of the bonnet for better air flow. Might try getting some stiff pipe hooked on underneath the bonnet going from the air vent to the air box. I might also try some flexi pipe running from the botom of the bar into the engine bay. Just ideas.... :P

Also, can anyone recommend some Brand name extractors and their experience with them? what kinda power boost should i be expecting?

i have a 91 R32 GTS with a RB25 n/a and i have just changed my ashmatic air filter to a proper k&n filter and the power difference was amazing. and i have also had fited a set of custom made pacemakers fitter to it about a year ago and it has a 2.5" exhaust right through to a super cat muffler. sounds awesome. power increase wasn't neck breaking but better. but had way better sound and in gear acceleration.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...