Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

evil that is a great install .. congrats .. i think i will do something similar to that ... do u think u can give us the dimensions of that box?? or was it just as easy to draw it up on cardboard?? try it out then build it?? do u find that it fits nicely?? ie how do u mount it to the ground?? stop the box from rattling??

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

nice thread. im planning on building my sub box soon. i want to leave my boot free for future items. so as i dont want rear seats im going to build the box to fit in there. will end up a bit heavy but having two 12's in the back sounds amazing. ill post pics of it once i finish. the problem i have atm is where to place the amps.

your right Nav2k. I guy has a 32 in clarion in a mitsubishi challenger up here in rockhampton. the box take up most of the cargo area. The clarion ute had two in the back of it, but form memory i think they have been taken out and replaced by 6 12 inch subs. The guy up here just fried the 32 inch as well, so i dont want his postage bill when he has to send it back :D

Originally posted by hippy

evil that is a great install .. congrats .. i think i will do something similar to that ... do u think u can give us the dimensions of that box?? or was it just as easy to draw it up on cardboard?? try it out then build it?? do u find that it fits nicely?? ie how do u mount it to the ground?? stop the box from rattling??

Hippy, I'll measure the box tonight but they will be only basic dimensions. It is quite easy to make a template with cardboard and a good way to start is to pull out the bottom carpet which is perfect to use as a stencil for the bottom of the box. As for holding the box in place, there is nothing holding it. I made it a very tight squeeze (I can't even get it out!) but with a thin metal cable connected to the metal on the side in case it moves.

  • 2 weeks later...
Originally posted by Craved

was that built straight onto the body of the car with the resin or did you put some plastic/material behind it so it can be removed?

Certainly not permanent! No way I'd damage someones car like that dude. We first mask up the entire boot area before we put the resin and Kevlar it. That way you can pop the entire enclosure out if you need to do something that requires the entire boot. :D

Carbon Kevlar-- expensive!! but good stuff :)

did you use kevlar over carbon to save the amount of layers, hence increase volume? just curious cause stuff like this interests me, wish i thought of it before i started my boot install ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...