Power Fc And 260s

[chef_stagea]

hey guys im wondering if its worth me selling my profec b spec 2 and getting a power fc for the new 260... how much will it all cost to get insalled etc etc... im guessing heaps and will it give me much improvment to a relativly stockish 260? (zorst) cheers...

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

tuned powerfc will net you more kw, perhaps as much as 20 - 30kw however profec will still be required to run more boost, unless u wanna get powerfc boost controller kit, profec still better

[chef_stagea]

am i just after a 33 gtr version??

[_Ryan_]

you will need both at some point... but personally i would go the ECU over the EBC if i could have one or the other.

[GoldZilla]

Yep, Adam, the R32/R33 GR-R PowerFC is the one you'll want for the 260RS.

Keep the Profec B, apparently it's better than the Apex'i boost controller that plugs into the PFC. It's a separate unit anyway, so seeing as you've already got the Profec B, you might as well use it with the PFC.

I've got a PFC in my car (mine was converted to manual before I bought it) and will be adding a boost controller soon, and I've been advised from quite a nfew workshops that the GReddy unit is the way to go!

[msports180]

Assuming you are selling the Profec B to fund the PFC?

Go the PFC and remove the restrictor, 14psi + good tune will unleash KW for sure.

Better option is both obvioulsy.

Ive used the profec B's before and a very good unit, pretty easy to tune and worked very well.

[chef_stagea]

Assuming you are selling the Profec B to fund the PFC?

Go the PFC and remove the restrictor, 14psi + good tune will unleash KW for sure.

Better option is both obvioulsy.

Ive used the profec B's before and a very good unit, pretty easy to tune and worked very well.

i would do yes... but if i could run both it would be better?? whats the benifit with having the hand controller? ive found one for 850 with outa a controller?

[GoldZilla]

The hand controller is good to have to keep an eye on your vitals of the engine - it can display Knock levels, injector duty cycle, engine revs, road speed, timing, various temps, etc.

If your car isn't running right, it's a good device to check quickly to see if any of those things are factors in it not performing properly.

[kidafa]

so nick, are we meeting up while were in syd on monday?

[msports180]

i would do yes... but if i could run both it would be better?? whats the benifit with having the hand controller? ive found one for 850 with outa a controller?

It would be better to run both yes.

As someone else mentioned the hand controller is a good way of checking vital sensors etc. Very handy, i dont use one in mine as i have a 10yr old who would probably think its a video came like NFS. I do want to get one though eventually so i can monitor things.

Edited January 19, 2009 by msports180

[STAGTR]

Cost for tuning it will vary depending on with it is a D-Jetro map sensor power-fc or if it uses AFM's. For a complete D-Jetro tune, you are looking at half a day and around $850 (last quote I received). That will get you full idle, cold start, cruise and power/heavy load/full boost and a power run and dyno sheet to take hom and put up on the fridge.

Dunno how much it costs to install... whilst it is supposed to be "plug and play", you would still want to have someone who knows what they're doing install it... if only to have someone to blame/do the free labour to fix it if it goes pear shaped, develops that strange misfire or just doesn't run right!!

To be perfectly honest, without the hand controller, you really are driving in the dark. The sheer amount of info you can pull from the controller is awesome. Fantastic for diagnostics. Also, adjustability is on the fly... not that you should need it if the tune is done properly, but can be handy if you get stuck with sub-standard fuel etc or are experiencing high knock/pinging.

I don't think that the power-fc's are compatible with the Nissan CONSULT test gear, so that's another reason to have the hand controller.

I bought my RB26 conversion stag recently and found that the car was overfuelling something chronic. Looking at the sensors under the "etc" screen I could see that it is probably due to the hidden map settings (can only see these on the laptop software) required to compensate for the fact the rear oxy sensor has been wired in wrong. Also found out that the tuner used the wrong injection compensation for the aftermarket injectors and used an incorrect injector latency. He did a pretty good job despite all the basic errors made, but my point is that I would be none the wiser for if I had no hand controller. (Now I just need a full tune to rectify the mistakes = $$). Prob would be staring down the barrel of spun bearings and glazed piston walls due to the overfuelling in short order too!

if you want power, you need to keep your boost controller... besides theres nothing wrong with toggling between a high 20 or so PSI setting which your tuner will use for tuning the power-fc and then toggling to a lower boost when driving around town. It's a good tool to have. Plus the ability to control how late the solenoid starts working and the gain it regulates boost with, will ensure you don't over boost and that you reach peak boost sooner.

Good luck with raising the dosh, maybe a lotto ticket? Just gotta remember that its $1K to buy the power-fc then... $x00 to install, $850 to tune. so quickly puts you upwards of $2K !! But well worth it of course.

[GoldZilla]

so nick, are we meeting up while were in syd on monday?

What time are you guys flying in?

[kidafa]

landing 8am syd time i think!

All goes sweet, Hoping to be on the road at 9.30 on our way back!

[chef_stagea]

thanx heaps stagtr... awesome username aswell actualy lol.... possablility for the new plates

ive borrowed a little more than what i need... not 2 grand but yeah. give me alot more info on it!

a mate had 1 in his 32 gtr so i might speak to him... i dont want to go over board with the 260 i dont think... well just yet.. wait until i drive it n stuff... might get addicted!

wheres a good place to start modding it?

ive got a profec b as i said

its got a cat back

fuel cut defender

heavy clutch

intake

n a few other bits n peices i guess

will the power fc rule out needing a safc, afm all that jaz... the way i understand it is getting the intense pfc will be virtualy all i need...

ill have boost, fuel, air and it will b flowing well...

[GoldZilla]

wheres a good place to start modding it?

ive got a profec b as i said

its got a cat back

fuel cut defender

heavy clutch

intake

n a few other bits n peices i guess

will the power fc rule out needing a safc, afm all that jaz... the way i understand it is getting the intense pfc will be virtualy all i need...

ill have boost, fuel, air and it will b flowing well...

Best place to start modding is the exhaust (if it's not already done), as per usual.

The PFC will replace the need for an SAFC, as it will handle fuel, timing, etc. all within the PFC itself. If you want to get rid of your AFMs, then get the D-Jetro version of the PowerFC.

The latest issue of High Performance Imports magazine has a few articles on the best way to get the max out of a GT-R, so this should easily apply to your 260RS.

[chef_stagea]

Best place to start modding is the exhaust (if it's not already done), as per usual.

The PFC will replace the need for an SAFC, as it will handle fuel, timing, etc. all within the PFC itself. If you want to get rid of your AFMs, then get the D-Jetro version of the PowerFC.

The latest issue of High Performance Imports magazine has a few articles on the best way to get the max out of a GT-R, so this should easily apply to your 260RS.

ah k cheers.. ill speak to just jap about the front pipes as its a cat back on there. and the d jetro ones are still like 1500 lol... might be worth waiting for the $ to go down a lil.

[BoyWhoCriedWolf]

If you are getting a PFC get an R33 GTR Ser2.

Keep the profecb spec2 (bro), they are a great unit. I have used both on my 260 to great effect.

[STAGTR]

With the power-fc you can get rid of your fuel cut defender and make back a couple of dollars to the cause!

Keep an eye out for second hand power fc on ebay. Also some of the larger import companies get them in as well, they return the car to stock for compliancing... maybe the owner didn't want it re-installed (highly unlikely) or maybe they just never knew it was in there when they imported it... or it could have been imported by the importer for his own yard and reckons he can get better coin for it if sold spearately. It's a cheaper way to do it and allows you to save for the purchase in the meantime. Just Jap and Mod Your Car websites seem pretty expensive for most parts for my liking.

For mods:

I reckon you should always start with handling then move to power... you've got to be able to harness those horsies to make em work for you.

I would look at new rubber. It is the best performance upgrade you can get for your car if it is running on cheaper tyres (eg Nankangs and the like). You need to replace em every coupla yrs anyway so its not like its a non essential component, they're what puts the power to the ground, gives cornering traction and helps stop you... it's crazy to skimp on these. You will be amazed at the difference it makes. Do a search... I know that Goodyear are running out the older symmetrical Eagle F1 GS-D3's at the moment and you may be able to score yourself a deal.

People mess around with ghetto bling rims, and get no ride improvement... I wouldn't waste money on new wheels unless you can't get suitable rubber in the stock sizes... or you spot a set of cheap second handies.

Good brake pads and a disc machine will help too (if you are going to be flogging it around psuedo circuit racing).

Aftermarket coilovers are expensive, and unless yours are shot already or you are throwing the bus around alot, it prob wouldn't be good bang for buck. Better to invest in uprated swaybars for reduced body roll and sort out any camber issues you may have to ensure best contact patch.

Now for power...

Exhaust is a great way to free up your flow... high flow cat, single rear exhaust . Make sure you get a removable silencer with your cannon... your ears will thank you as will everyone else. Most will do little to choke the flow. If you want loud, you can always romove the silencer, its pure gold.

I'm showing my rb engine ignorance here (only had the car a couple of months!), but I think the GT-R may have come out with the more fragile ceramic wheeled turbines? If you want to make power, you'll need to up the boost safely. So if ceramic wheels, will need steel wheeled turbs and probably new injectors to cope with all that extra air. The rb26 feels like a dog off boost so you wont wanna go too large a compressor/turbine setup... peak power figures look great on dyno sheets but don't always translate to usable performance on the road. Can always sacrfice some flow for a bit better/earlier boost response. Then you wont be smashing to redline all the time and will be that much kinder on the donk.

Can anyone comment on the stock FPR, I'd say you prob wont need to touch the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump... power-fc and a tune will do the rest. New turbs and injectors will cost a LOT of money.. maybe best to milk what you've got in the stock setup.

New exhaust manifolds are relatively cheap though, but prob not worth the labour if you aren't replacing the turbs.

Exposed intake pods are bad... instant defect and the temp of the air you suck in is pretty average, despite how big your intercooler may be. Shielded pods or use the stock airbox w/ high flow panel filter.

Adjustable cam gears allow from more intake/exhaust cam/valve overlap which will give you more up top (and a little less down low if I am not mistaken).

If you replace the oil pump with an N1 or tomei/greddy you can run closer to rev limit for longer and safer, but you need to weigh up how you are gonna be driving your car I guess.

Bugger, shoulda read the other posts... see HPI/Fast Fours/Hot fours special issues and Tech sections for modding RB26's, they'll have all the good gouge

P.S. I reckon that a oil filter relocation kit is a must... that filter is a nightmare to get off/out without spilling oil all over the right side of lower engine bay... need to do a frickin degrease after an oil change!! (Damn Nissan engineers!! nice donks though)

I'm looking for one right now if anyone has a spare?

[wolverine]

powerfc, profec and cam gears and you can worry about the rest later.

you can replace the front pipes later when you (inevitably) upgrade the turbos.

[chef_stagea]

yeah nice... im not after any thing massive... and at the end of the day its all massive $... i just want a car i can buzz round in day to day and over take... crank threw sum bends and give it a launch every now and then... most of the stuff i will do my self... and i guess once i actualt feel how it is i cant make much judgment... it may be enough for me as is... what is a safe boost level? and how have you all god ur pro fec bs set up?? set gain all that jazz??

cheers