Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

google is your friend...

Bosch 910, 200 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 220 rwkw (15mm in, M12 x 1.5 out)

Bosch 975, 228 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 250 rwkw (15mm in, M12 x 1.5 out)

Bosch 984, 228 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 250 rwkw (12mm in, M12 x 1.5 out)

Bosch 040, 235 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 260 rwkw (in-tank pump with screen & M12 x 1.5 out)

Bosch 044, 330 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 360 rwkw (14mm in, M12 x 1.5 out)

  • 2 months later...

odds r the hose clamp screw was rotated around in the "wrong" spot - if there is one

post-44390-0-85892000-1297080161_thumb.jpg

thats where mine are and it went straight in

I had mine installed for ages and got surging at half a tank. Thanks for the pic worked straight away and pump sat right Cheers

  • 1 month later...

Just finished installing my 040. Damm that stupid air tight top cover. Bitch to take off and refit. Never want to do it again. Luckly I check for a click noise when i slid the cradle on. With my HKS exhaust. I can't even hear the pump wine. I like the wining noise it makes like external pumps. Going for a test drive now.

  • 1 month later...

I used this tutorial to fit my walbro, pretty much the same procedure. The walbros are a fair bit smaller (width wise). I didn't cut the bottom c shaped bit off, instead used it to hold the bottom of the pump and wedged a steel nut between the bracket and pump then used the hose clamps to secure it.

Make sure you double check the o ring is sitting in place correctly before tightening the big plastic ring, silicon spray on the thread helps big time!

Cheers for the right up OP

  • 2 weeks later...

the wiring didnt look too bad when i changed mine out and I just used the crimps that came with the kit, but jaycar sell "chemical resistant" heat shrink.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WH5526

Hmm I seem to have into run into the issue of the pump not wanting to go into the fuel tank also. I have taken 2 photos for reference.

First up I am guessing everyone has this white thing (fuel level sensor?) or do they have something different?

img1218fx.jpg

And 2ndly is everyones space this tight? There seems absolutely no way to get the pump past the point in this picture. I have it mounted the same as in the tutorial possibly marginally lower but would be nearly negligible.

img1216wu.jpg

I am installing this in a series 2 r34 so unsure if there are differences or not gonna go back out there and keep trying maybe try lifting pump higher.

Alright got it in and it works so I guess the only advice I have to give is don't give up cause its not hard getting the bracket into the holder it's a lot harder to get the actual pump down where you need it. I am not sure how I got it but with a bunch of wiggling and my arm all the way down feeling to guide the pump it went in.

Definitetly a pain now I just hope nothing goes wrong that I have to check it again

Pulled my cradle with walbro out of my s1 and swapped with stock pump with cash my way with guy at work with s2.

Mounted 040 as per photos on here. Spent 2 hours adjusting twisting etc and I can garuantee it won't go in with hose clamps attached. Wedges into tank and sits 50-60mm from bottom. Not sure if s1/s2 brackets are different but don't think so.

Ended up extending hose 10mm from standard and put it in without clamps. Its wedges in hard between tank and bracket and is firmly held. Can barely squeeze a finger under it and is lower than walbro with sock.

google is your friend...

Bosch 910, 200 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 220 rwkw (15mm in, M12 x 1.5 out)

Bosch 975, 228 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 250 rwkw (15mm in, M12 x 1.5 out)

Bosch 984, 228 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 250 rwkw (12mm in, M12 x 1.5 out)

Bosch 040, 235 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 260 rwkw (in-tank pump with screen & M12 x 1.5 out)

Bosch 044, 330 l/hr @ 5 bar (73.5psi), supports 360 rwkw (14mm in, M12 x 1.5 out)

Hey guys, just for reference, the post above IS correct in terms of the 044... My car ran 360.7kw and the pump was pretty much on its limit... It is in the tank and is dead quiet (a big surprise to me) and i couldnt be happier! For those running an R34 the fuel pressure gets a bit sketchy at that HP but there is a modification that can sort it out, the boys at JEM sorted mine out and safely ran it back to 357rwkw which is the final tune :yes:

I was a bit worried about fitting an 044 to my car for daily use, but now that its in and ive driven it i strongly recommend them :)

I seem to have an issue with fuel pressure loss when car sits for a while.

Do people usually install a 1 way valve to help hold pressure? Apparently the stock pumps have a 1 way valve built in? I will have to double check my fuel filter as I changed that but can almost guarantee there is no leak there

Hmm I seem to have into run into the issue of the pump not wanting to go into the fuel tank also. I have taken 2 photos for reference. First up I am guessing everyone has this white thing (fuel level sensor?) or do they have something different? img1218fx.jpg And 2ndly is everyones space this tight? There seems absolutely no way to get the pump past the point in this picture. I have it mounted the same as in the tutorial possibly marginally lower but would be nearly negligible. img1216wu.jpg

What I did to get around this problem was cut the brack and fit the pump right up top. I then annealed some copper pipe so that it was nice and soft ( about 400mm of it) flared 1 end of it with a tube flaring tool. using a Jic fitting on the bottom of the pump I then bent the tube by hand so that the fuel pickup is bassicly on the very bottom of the tank and about 150mm towards the front of the car.

The gain is that you can run the car almost dry before it will get fuel surge, the problem is that I don't run a fuel filter before the pump.

Regards

Chris

What I did to get around this problem was cut the brack and fit the pump right up top. I then annealed some copper pipe so that it was nice and soft ( about 400mm of it) flared 1 end of it with a tube flaring tool. using a Jic fitting on the bottom of the pump I then bent the tube by hand so that the fuel pickup is bassicly on the very bottom of the tank and about 150mm towards the front of the car.

The gain is that you can run the car almost dry before it will get fuel surge, the problem is that I don't run a fuel filter before the pump.

Regards

Chris

That sounds like a good idea. I am able to drive my car on the light for a while with the pump installed how it is but it scares me so won't let it ever get as low as I use to (when i was lazy about getting fuel or tight on money)

That sounds like a good idea. I am able to drive my car on the light for a while with the pump installed how it is but it scares me so won't let it ever get as low as I use to (when i was lazy about getting fuel or tight on money)

Try dropping it in without clamps like I did. It's locks up right at the bottom and mine was solid as a rock and 10mm from thd bottom

I tried for a good couple hours before removing clamps. Not sure if it was because I put a s2 bracket in my s1 but I doubt it. When I could get it in clamped about 50mm from bottom was as low as I could get it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...