Jump to content
SAU Community

Most Bizzare Locknut Ever

Aggroman
 Share

Recommended Posts

Aggroman Grand Master

Aggroman

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone..

I just recently bought a bigger brake upgrade for my 34 GT.

Car is currently at workshop gettin fixed up so i cant take a closeup but ill try to explain it best i can.

Anyway i was looking at my nuts to take the wheel off etc and i have the most bizzare locknut ever..

Its almost like a cap sitting ontop of something ( the cap is sort of like a top hat, the top is flat and then on the lower edge It has a small groove).. I can push the whole cap in and pull it out by about 2mm and turn it no problem but nothing happens..

Tried pulling it off. got them needle nose pliers on good but it wont move...

Was thinking of trying to get a socket to go over the top but there isnt enough clearance around the edge of the cap thing and the wheel to slot a socket in.

So it has to do with this groove but for the life of me cant figure it out..

Ill post a pic of my wheel and the brand/model if anyone can find anything (ill take a closeup when i get the car bak in a few days hopefully.

Voltec Inter Milano Hyper MS

http://www.milano-wheels.com/products/voltec/v_hms.html (cant ask them about it cause its mostly in jap)

post-51757-1232366645_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253310-most-bizzare-locknut-ever/
Share on other sites
J'z-R33 Grand Master

J'z-R33

Posted
Posted
did you try a big magnet? I've seen some of the magnetic lug nut caps/locks for sale around here in japan.

Sounds like it is to me..

Kyo-Ei Dency 2000 Lock Nut, every key is unique to the lock nut. There pretty expensive too.. $200 a set.

s13_Skyline_inside Proficient

s13_Skyline_inside

Posted
Posted

if you have no luck in the end and you can do this without damaging the wheen bash a socket onto then just to get them off then buy some more that you will have the key for, cause your gunna be pretty stuffed with a car that you cant take the wheels off

  • 3 weeks later...
Aggroman Grand Master

Aggroman

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

so i finally got my car back, sorry for the long delay, here are some closeups of the locknut. two averageish pics. they just wouldnt come up good. got one decent one for ya out of 3.

Looks alot like the ones posted above, the Kyo-Ei Dency 2000 Lock Nut. how can i get these off without spending like over 100 to get my damn wheels off?

Any and all help would be Very appreciated as i have new rotors and calipers waiting to go on but cant with these friggin things. I read up that i cant just bash a smaller socket ontop, nor can i just use a regular magnent.

Maybe i should take it back to where i got the car from and get them to pay for it. I think i might go rip apart my entire boot to see if its not hidden under the jack or something.

post-51757-1234086978_thumb.jpg

post-51757-1234087005_thumb.jpg

post-51757-1234087090_thumb.jpg

Edited by Aggroman
Aggroman Grand Master

Aggroman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
do you think it may be like a medicine bottle cap, you have to push it down and turn to release it? i don't know just an idea.

See i thought that at first too, but i would have to push it down and try to undo a wheelnut on a insane angle with a screwdriver and hammer and probably just dent the crap outta it..

I think im going to have to either sucker up the money and hope the new key fits and it is indeed the same thing as above or get it drilled out (if thats even possible?)

Or sell the car, why have a car that only can use one set of tyres? :geek:

Going to take it to a wheel shop/s on tuesday see what they think.

That is unless some wonderfull person has a key that they are willing to let me try or know what to do.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

a few ways.... all will destroy it tho

drill tap it

smash a flathead screwdriver into it and twist it... doubtful but possible if its not tight

weld a breaker bar onto it

take an impression and have a key made (do you know a dentist?)

J'z-R33 Grand Master

J'z-R33

Posted
Posted

Where are you located? I have the key to get the Kyo-Ei cap off (just the cap not the nut). Then you can put a socket over the nut and get it out..

No-one will have the same pattern lock nut key as you though.. so you will have to buy some new ones..

Shoot me a PM,

Cheers

Johno

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...