Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need to disconnect the actuator pipe to run open boost .. I dont have a boost controller yet so apparently this is a good way to see how the car will behave if I did have one installed..

Only thing that controls the boost at the moment is the wastegate spring.. can anyone point me to the right pipe / hose to disconnect to achieve this? Thanks in advance

engine bay pics are as follows:

53504582qp4.jpg

44132300cj9.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253359-wheres-my-actuator-pipe/
Share on other sites

Find the actuator and pull the vac hose off it? There is only one...

And is the car "stock"? AS it wont behave much at all once it hits boost cut, or the turbo explodes

Edited by gotRICE?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...&start=220#

Its got a few mods, and yeah ill be watching the boost like a hawk.. I dont produce full boost until around 4k, so this test could be interesting to try out

whats the actuator look like? hence why i posted the pics .. cheers

Edited by Vanilla_Rice
Find the actuator and pull the vac hose off it? There is only one...

had me confused as hell here sorry, so basically since the external wastegate does what the actuator used to do I'd be right in saying yank that hose of that since the stock actuator / turbo setup is long gone

Edited by Vanilla_Rice
It will probably BLOW UP judging by the amount oil coming out of you rocker cover vapour hoses

yeah thanks for noticing but its not like I'm gonna be driving it around everywhere like this, I doubt ill go over 3k its just to see if the boost will build quicker since my lag is shocking

just took the hose off and went for a drive, made stuff all difference car is still laggy as hell.. was at about 14psi at 3800ish rpm .. so im highly doubting a new boost controller will make it any better.

I was really hoping to produce my 19 pounds (current spring setup) at a lot lower revs with this td05 but hey, im not really sure what to expect running open boost like that.

Edited by Vanilla_Rice
had me confused as hell here sorry, so basically since the external wastegate does what the actuator used to do I'd be right in saying yank that hose of that since the stock actuator / turbo setup is long gone

Yeah made a bad call. For some reason i overlooked the external :)

I suppose i should mention that its a knock off chinese td05, probably explains a few things.. Although from my experience this turbo produced more hp than a genuine mitsi turbo on my last dyno run @ same boost but they generally dont last as long.

ummm removing the VAC line to an actuator wont do anything (if you still had one)

You need to wire the gate/actuator shut if you want to test if the turbo gate is opening prematurely causing poor response (if you still had one)

And i say - "if you still had one" because fk me...

You have an EXTERNAL WASTEGATE - you do not have an actuator... The gate is the actuator.

So no idea what anyone in this thread has been talking about... look @ the fluro poofter pink thing in the pictures!!!

So... as before - removing the hose, same in this instance, isnt going to do a thing.

If you want to test the GATE spring being the cause, just take the gate off and put a blanking plate on it, you'll soon see if its gate creep causing the problem or not

And get rid of that silly filter thats blowing oil over your engine bay. I kid you not when i say this... that filter will give you a fire in your engine bay when it spits oil when things are hot. I've seen 3 cars catch fire because of those retarded filters that server no purpose other than getting an insurance payout for a burnout car.

Oh, btw - insurance wont payout because that's your own fault for a illegal, and dumb mod :(

Oh, btw - insurance wont payout because that's your own fault for a illegal, and dumb mod :ermm:

wow thanks, kinda.. :thumbsup:

Just so were clear, this is New Zealand .. and its perfectly legal..

I didnt even install the filter thing, it magically appeared after mechanic installed the turbo, if its a stupid mod fine, but I just left it on cos i assumed it did something. Im not a mechanic!!, hence why I use this place to obtain answers, so enough with the flameing.. purple poofter thing??? come on, does it need to be black or something.

but thanks, for your insightful answer I do appreciate it..

btw - the oil all over the place is from a crack in one of those pipes, yes it needs replacing..

Edited by Vanilla_Rice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
    • Most driving should* be done on one side of single lane divided roads. In the RHD world, you drive on the left side of the dividing line and the road is probably cambered equally on both sides. So your side of the road slopes away to the left. The same is true for the LHD world, just everything swapped to the other side and opposite slope. With a perfectly neutral, straight ahead wheel alignment designed to drive straight on a perfectly flat surface (or at least one that is level on the left-right axis, even if it has some slope in the fore-aft axis) you will not be able to drive on a cambered road without the car wanting to drift down the camber. You will need to add steering input in the opposite direction all the time. This is annoying. The solution has always been to set the camber and/or the caster to produce a continuous turning force in the opposite direction of the camber. The car will drive straight on the kind of camber for which it was set up, presumably as described in the top paragraph. But.... when the car is set up this way, as soon as you get into a lane, usually on a multi-lane surface road or highway, where the camber is not as presumed during setup, the car will usually pull to one side. In the RHD world, if you are in the fast lane on a big divided road, you are probably on the opposite camber compared to what the car was set up for (ie, sloping down to the right) and the combination of the setup and that camber will make the car want to go right pretty hard. Even a perfectly flat lane will tend to want to go right. There's no getting around it. Civil engineers who know their stuff (which is not an assumption that can always be made) will attempt to keep the variation in camber across a multi-lane road as small as possible, and if they can will attempt to make the fast lane as close to flat, or even cambered in the same direction as all the other lanes. This takes a lot of planning for drainage, control of levels, ability to deal with the elevation changes that occur at road junctions, etc etc. So it's not trivial to get it right. When they do make it work, then the annoyance is reduced, along with tyre wear, fuel consumption, etc. In theory, the civil engineers are supposed to worry about those aspects of road design also. * This used to be true, but now with very large highway systems, even just multi-lane surface roads running everywhere, it is less true now than it was, but the old assumption is the basis for describing the phenomenon, so let's just run with it for the moment.
    • I think the consensus was that's normal. Sloped road surfaces or something? I remember @silviaz went through this before. It might be one of those things you never notice until you pay attention to it.
    • Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
×
×
  • Create New...