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Bleed Valves? Which One Do U Use?


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Guest RedLineGTR

Been having a look around at what people use etc. Just would like to get some opions on different bleed valves/manual boost controllers. I've been looking at a specific one The GFB Atomic heard some good stuff about it and seem to have heard some bad stuff as well. After some opinions on this bleed valve and others people are using. If finding a decent one fails i will look for a ebc. :D

Cheers Rob

Thanks In Advance for You time.

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I didn't see any spike on the dyno, and nor have I on the stock boost guage (for what thats worth...), but then I've got it pretty low so a 2 or 3 psi spike wouldnt be a problem if it did occur

you've got to remember that when bleed valves are used to replace the factory solenoids, most have a smaller inlet orifice than the outlet orifice which is designed to bring boost on sooner due to the pressure restriction not being able to push open the wastegate actuator (which opens the wastegate to stabilise shaft speed and boost) as quickly as when there is no restrictor. also bleed valves, due to their nature can only "flow" a certain amount of air. this is why you see boost spikes, because in that split second that your boost gauge goes to say 16psi then drops back to 14psi, this is the exact moment the wastegate actuator doesn't "see" the defined boost pressure that you've set your bleeder to.

Chiptorque used to make their own pneumatic bleeders, but i have heard from someone that works there, they will be switching to the GFB Atomic bleeder now, as their product costs more to make and the GFB product works alot better.

Hi guys, we use the Autospeed boost controller based on the Norgren valves a lot. Works well for us and at $125 I haven't seen anything else that comes even close. We do mount ours in the cold air box, it keeps the temperature of the valves more stable.

I finally installed the Autospeed boost controller that Sydneykid had recommended... and yes, works fine. You could also mount this inside the cabin... seems like a very cheap alternative to EBCs, and do the job just as well!

They've now done a 2nd article on this, might give it a bash;

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0685

Hi guys, as the hoses get longer you get a bit of delay in boost achieving stability. So I always try and make the hoses as short as possible and locate the valves inside the cold air box, more stable temperatuers in there. Some people don't mind the small fluctuation in boost, so locating the valves in cabin is OK for them and it is away from the engine bay heat as well.

Each to his own

"at night i saw it spike to 13psi which is a worry"

HeeHee! Mine spikes to 1.5Bar dropping back to 1.1...you think you've got worries.

Iused the Turbosmart duel boost which worked quite well on the stock turbo, but tended to spike quite badly on the hi-flowed one. Changed to the Audi diy setup and that worked very well until recently.

Now i'm getting severe spiking and a marked rise in boost level in 3rd and 4th gear eg spiking to 1.3Bar and quickly dropping back to 0.9Bar in 1st and 2nd, hitting the boost cut (1.46Bar) in third and hitting the boost cut so hard in 4th that ignition completely cuts out I have to wait until revs drop to zero befor ignition returns and I can restart the car. This happens with both boost controllers so if anyone has any ideas....I'd love to hear them.

turbospike bleed valve.

As sydneykid suggested the insulation of the valve and hoses does minimise the spike issues.

With all manual bleeders the ambient temp causes boost variation (ie: more boost when cold), so you need to adjust them constantly as temp varies.

Electronic controllers offer the automation of this control.

Guest RedLineGTR

so pretty much set it on a cold night..and the test in in both hot and cold conditions to get a average setting that isnt going to get crazy..I can get a GFB one for a good price..and other people have said they are quite decent..anyone else have em..

Good info guys as always. :)

Be wary of bleed valve. I had Turbosmart set at 10psi for about half a year. What I thought was perfect setup until lately.....

Following the misfiring on GOR cruise, we tracked down the culprit on the dyno and found out the bleed valve was putting out 15psi instead of what we thought 10psi. Apparently the valve has stuffed itself up, any little adjustments won't change the boost and at a certain point it'll just let go (like 10-10-10-16!!)

Lucky we find it soon before my engine blew up.

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