Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My screen has a 12v feed and a switched ignition feed.

The little led behind the power button stays on but it hasn't been enough to drain the battery after a week of not being driven.

Samon, I looked into FreeDrive and it kind of implied you had to buy Destinator, so tried to find a distributor in Australia with no luck :P

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Samon, I looked into FreeDrive and it kind of implied you had to buy Destinator, so tried to find a distributor in Australia with no luck :P

Try installing MapMonkey first... it includes the Destinator SDK http://www.mapmonkey.net/gps-downloads.html

Then you install FreeDrive (IMHO it's better to use...) and it will find that Destinator is already there and just work...

i wired my car pc and screen a few days ago, when i start the pc up i get "No video signal" on the screen, but i can hear the computer running

connected my home pc to my screen in the car and it was working fine

connected my monitor to the carpc and it still didnt run

any ideas, could it be the video card?

lol it was really simple,, connected it today again, and it was just a matter of flicking through the different video options, it had video 1, video 2, and then Pc

but i think i wired the speakers wrong, caus everytime i turn off the ignition i get a loud noise from the speakers,,,

true i got a bit of a problem ov my own too.. hehe well i went to connect everything all up with my home lcd screen to check if every think is working and no computer i wonder if it has fryed it self im gona pull most of the things out and check it...

but i think i wired the speakers wrong, caus everytime i turn off the ignition i get a loud noise from the speakers,,,

Like a loud 'pop' noise? If so it's just your soundcard isn't gracefully disconnecting when it shuts down :) Not a lot you can do unfortunately except maybe rig up some kinda relay on the amp power trigger wire to switch it off before the soundcard kills the connection...

Like a loud 'pop' noise? If so it's just your soundcard isn't gracefully disconnecting when it shuts down :) Not a lot you can do unfortunately except maybe rig up some kinda relay on the amp power trigger wire to switch it off before the soundcard kills the connection...

i dont think its the sound card, caus the computer doesnt turn off after i take the ignition out, i think its caus i didnt wire the negative to ground, caus the head unit already had another ground wire, im thinking anyway,

i tried installing road runner and all that crap on my home pc,,, but its a fken pain man,,, wish it was easier,,,

i tried installing road runner and all that crap on my home pc,,, but its a fken pain man,,, wish it was easier,,,

Haha yeah it's not the nicest for one-click installation... but it's very customisable. If you just want easy... try Centrafuse or StreetDeck... neither is freeware, but both very good. I went for RR because it was free and because I could tweak it to look and behave exactly how I wanted.

which LCD are you guys using? any problems with it in the car? currently shopping around for the LCD at the moment since I have a laptop lying around.

I'm using a Xenarc 700TSV... works well for me, and now that it's been molded into the dash surround it looks factory as... looks awesome!

I've had no problems with this screen... but the majority of the guys on mp3car.com use either Xenarc or Lilliput (or one of the eBay clones 'SUPER' brand)

how much did you get it for? from mp3car store or local?

Actually I got it on eBay second-hand (apparently the guy had it in his car and it was written off, so he was taking it out as it wasn't gonna be covered by insurance or something) for IIRC just under $200.

Any ideas on how to set up the radio with an in-car pc?

USB FM Tuner...

I tried a few... an ancient D-LINK one, a Griffin RadioShark (AM/FM), and a cheap no-name SiLabs clone... which was the best of the lot! The D-LINK one just plain sucked, the proprietry software that was required for the RadioShark sucked, but the cheapo worked with the SiliconLabs radio software which was used by RoadRunner. I just removed the built-in antenna and soldered on an external socket to hook up to the cars antenna. Works a treat! Only FM mind you, but pfft! Who listens to AM anyway?

Ah very tricky. Im a total n00b at electronis stuff. Looking at the 2din carPC's which seem to involve alot less work

There's a HQCT (High Quality Compact Tuner?) module available from XTroniC (http://direct.xtronic.be/products/hqct-am-fm-usb-radio.html)... it's not cheap but from discussion on mp3car.com the quality of it was comparable to a decent car head unit...

can you take a pic of your lcd in the sun if you don't mind Samon? I want to know how much glare there is on it.

At the moment, sorry but no. The screen isn't in the car. It's not too bad... certainly not as good as a transflective... but I guess you get what you pay for... :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...