Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I love my Stagea but I would like to make the ride more compliant..(I drove on some great winding roads the other day...and the car was magic..but for day to day driving..I find it too harsh).

I am running some newish KYB shocks with original springs commpressed about an inch at present.

From what I am told...

Most Coilovers have an even harder ride than the standard set up.??? (comments please)

If this is the case... I am thinking of trying to get hold of some softer springs.Any one know of any?

Cheers.

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253528-softer-riding-s2/
Share on other sites

Hi Scott,

Yes coilovers are allways going to be firmer than the standard setup. Thats the entire idea of them to firm up the ride and make it handle better.

As for softening your ride. Maybe just go back to stock struts and sell your coils. Or do a trade with some one after some coils for their stock struts +cash your way!

I love my Stagea but I would like to make the ride more compliant..(I drove on some great winding roads the other day...and the car was magic..but for day to day driving..I find it too harsh).

I am running some newish KYB shocks with original springs commpressed about an inch at present.

From what I am told...

Most Coilovers have an even harder ride than the standard set up.??? (comments please)

If this is the case... I am thinking of trying to get hold of some softer springs.Any one know of any?

Cheers.

Scott

Standard springs are plenty soft enough - are your shocks adjustable? If not do a deal for some standard shocks and then get some sway bars to stop the wallowing in the corners - they will not detract from your ride comfort.

Agreed, as long as your shocks are in good working order (especially if they're brand new replacements with original rates), then the best change you can make to keeping that handling is the upgraded sway bars.

I love my Stagea but I would like to make the ride more compliant..(I drove on some great winding roads the other day...and the car was magic..but for day to day driving..I find it too harsh).

I am running some newish KYB shocks with original springs commpressed about an inch at present.

From what I am told...

Most Coilovers have an even harder ride than the standard set up.??? (comments please)

If this is the case... I am thinking of trying to get hold of some softer springs.Any one know of any?

Cheers.

Scott

Hi Scott ,well as i suffer with back problem`s i want soft ride i have changed my tyre`s from 235/40/18 to 235/45/17 & find it much better ride then before,i have been thinking what to do shockie & spring wise & really & i may just stay stock & look to sway bar`s & bushes to remove bodyroll it`s hard when Whitline only do 2 bar`s not much,so it may be jap spec stuff i look to see what is about ,I would like to try a 50 series tyre to see if that is any better as i find some road`s are :):O ,so may be try to find some 17in rim`s & go 50 series on them it may be what your looking for i think it would be better i hope to try some out soon myself ,good luck cheeer`s chuckie ,
Hi Scott ,well as i suffer with back problem`s i want soft ride i have changed my tyre`s from 235/40/18 to 235/45/17 & find it much better ride then before,i have been thinking what to do shockie & spring wise & really & i may just stay stock & look to sway bar`s & bushes to remove bodyroll it`s hard when Whitline only do 2 bar`s not much,so it may be jap spec stuff i look to see what is about ,I would like to try a 50 series tyre to see if that is any better as i find some road`s are :):O ,so may be try to find some 17in rim`s & go 50 series on them it may be what your looking for i think it would be better i hope to try some out soon myself ,good luck cheeer`s chuckie ,
SK will make you any bar you want. Selby bars from his company Superior Suspension, Sydney. And yes you won't get a comfortable ride from 35 or 40 profile tyres.

I agree that going back to 17's and a 45 profile tyre will help a bit..

I still find it a bit odd that most owners refer to their standard set up as soft..my standard set up was rock hard..(with four people and a full load... the springs hardly moved at all)...

What I would realy like is the firmness of what I have now...but with more dampening to take away the initail "wack" of bumps..perhaps a set of good coilovers would give me this???

The reason I was thinking soft springs is...I drove my sons commodore the other day..it felt like a boat..but didnt have that initail "wack" from bumps...

Hope that all makes sense..wanted to get some feedback so I can figure out my best plan of attack.

Cheers

Edited by bluesky4me

could it be the case that your springs are not the correct rating? ie could be rated incorrectly ( too hard ) and yes the higher profile tyres will def help

are you sure the car does not have solid subframe bushes * pineapples * because I noticed a definate change in ride after I fitted the subframe bushes. not that I am complaining cause I think the car definately gets off the line faster and feels better handling wise than before I put em in

I agree that going back to 17's and a 45 profile tyre will help a bit..

I still find it a bit odd that most owners refer to their standard set up as soft..my standard set up was rock hard..(with four people and a full load... the springs hardly moved at all)...

What I would realy like is the firmness of what I have now...but with more dampening to take away the initail "wack" of bumps..perhaps a set of good coilovers would give me this???

The reason I was thinking soft springs is...I drove my sons commodore the other day..it felt like a boat..but didnt have that initail "wack" from bumps...

Hope that all makes sense..wanted to get some feedback so I can figure out my best plan of attack.

Cheers

I agree that going back to 17's and a 45 profile tyre will help a bit..

I still find it a bit odd that most owners refer to their standard set up as soft..my standard set up was rock hard..(with four people and a full load... the springs hardly moved at all)...

What I would realy like is the firmness of what I have now...but with more dampening to take away the initail "wack" of bumps..perhaps a set of good coilovers would give me this???

The reason I was thinking soft springs is...I drove my sons commodore the other day..it felt like a boat..but didnt have that initail "wack" from bumps...

Hope that all makes sense..wanted to get some feedback so I can figure out my best plan of attack.

Cheers

I doubt that the springs are the problem unless they are not in fact standard springs (you should be able to get standard springs cheap or free from someone upgrading). Bilstein shocks are the way to go and you should be able to get them valved to get the ride quality that you want by a knowledgable technician (not peddars).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...