Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have been having problems with my stock coils for ages so I finally bouught some JJR coils from justjap for a series 1 R33 GTS-T

Pulled this old coils out this arvo after some dramas with stripped screws and other such un-fun doings, put the new coils in the brackets and went to put them back in only to find my wiring loom won't connect up. Comparing a new coil to an older one, the design seems ever so SLIGHTLY different. Different enough though to have halted my progress and frustrate me to no end.

I am wondering if

A: The coils actually require a new, matching loom (Justjap website said direct replacement though)

or

B: They accidently sent me Series 2 coils.

I don't know how different S2 coils are to S1 coils.

Any suggestions? Its too late to call them now and ask and I was kinda needing the car tomorrow for work. I really do NOT want to have gone to all this trouble just to have to put the old coils back in :)

Like Splitfires they hook straight up to the factory loom.

Did you order the right set? It is possible pending the actual month of manufacture of your car that it is a Series 1.5 and therefore you will actually need Series II coils.

Did you check the compatibility on their website before you bought them to ensure you got the correct set?

Hey, thanks for the quick reply. My car is a 1995 and is listed as a series 1 so I just bought series 1 coils. My car may be a series 1.5, I was unaware they had Series 2 coils?

I just looked at them further, the earth and positive are reversed so they are definetly the wrong coils for my car. The receipt from justjap says series 1.

If my car indeed does require S2 coils, being a late 1995 series 1 (and thus possibly a 1.5) then the mistake is mine for assuming I needed series 1 coils.

What does the TPS look like?

If it is square with two plugs coming off the same side then it's S2, if it's rectangular with one plug coming off the side and wires going to another plug then it's series one.

Series one coil packs have 4 little bolts holding them to the bracket, Series 2 only have 3

"Series one coil packs have 4 little bolts holding them to the bracket, Series 2 only have 3"

Gah.

My old coils have 3 bolts, the new ones have 4.

Sigh.

My car IS a series 1 though. What did nissan do, just throw random S2 bits onto the 95's for the hell of it?

Gonna have to call Justjap tomorrow i guess and try get the S2's sent out. Screw putting the car back together, Ill just have to take the bike tomorrow.

Thanks for your help guys. I feared they had sent me Series 2 coils by mistake, in the end it turns out I NEEDED series 2. Bloody Nissan.

Hey, thanks for the quick reply. My car is a 1995 and is listed as a series 1 so I just bought series 1 coils. My car may be a series 1.5, I was unaware they had Series 2 coils?

I just looked at them further, the earth and positive are reversed so they are definetly the wrong coils for my car. The receipt from justjap says series 1.

If my car indeed does require S2 coils, being a late 1995 series 1 (and thus possibly a 1.5) then the mistake is mine for assuming I needed series 1 coils.

I have a set of S2 JJR coilpacks here if JJ won't take them back. These were in the car for 2 weeks. I can sell the other set as series 1 which is what I intended to do with this other set if that helps.

I have a set of S2 JJR coilpacks here if JJ won't take them back. These were in the car for 2 weeks. I can sell the other set as series 1 which is what I intended to do with this other set if that helps.

why wont JJ take it back?

wtf

95model R33's have a S2 motor... I know because I have one

Yes. I was unaware the 1.5's used the 2's engine. Lesson learned I guess.

You click on the S2 coils on the Justjap website and it says

"Engine Compatibility:

- Nissan R33 RB25DET (1/95-5/98)

Which I would have seen, except that I didn't even bother clicking on the S2 coils as I dismissed them thinking I needed S1 :)

1995 are commonly refered to as series 1.5, have some parts of the series 2 and some parts of the series one

yeh yours will probably be series 2 engine. Two easiest ways to tell would be looking at your TPS as already mentioned or looking at the back of your engine valley cover and if theres no igniter there then u will need series 2 coils.

ah im tired so if i've stuffed up someone correct me haha

Easy tiger, read the post properly before you jump the gun.

I am certain that if the wrong coils were ordered they will be more than happy to switch them over :)

hey blitz, im referring to 3lit3 32's comment, not lachlans :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...