Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, I am looking at upgrading my cross-mission w/center plate to the PPG 1st-4th Helical Dog Set in about six months, so I am no rush for information. However, I would prefer to hear from those that have had first hand experience with the PPG 1st-4th Helical Dog Set. Looking to match this up to my GT-R (BCNR33). I hate typing, so for a basic idea of my baby's build;

- HKS Fcon VPro

- HKS T51R BB

- ARC IC 3 core

- Tomei 270 10.8

- HKS Crankshaft balanced w/ ORC Triple-plate and ATI damper

- Greddy Surge tank

- Fuel Injectors 1000 cc

- Bosch, Fuel Pump x2

- Tires, 245/45-17 Nitto (Drag only)

- Tires, 265/35-18 Dunlap RE-01 (Daily use only)

- Tires, 275/35-18 BFG Drag Radials (Daily & Drag use?/ to be tested)

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254233-ppg-1st-4th-helical-dog-set/
Share on other sites

I run the ppg 1st-5th straight cut dog gearset in a gtr box and its a great piece of gear, drives nicely and can be street drivin once you get the hang of rev matching on downshifts. The upshifts are easy and never crunch if u let it slide in slowly or jam it as hard as possible. I never realised how slow a synchro box was to shift until i drove the dog set, its just on another level and worth every cent.

Im running 560hp at wheels in a 1700kg stagea and done heaps of rev limiter launches and never had any breakages, plus heaps of slamming gears and all is perfect. Only issue with the straight cut option is the noise is pretty loud if its doing any street duties, but you are thinking helical so thats no drama.

Edited by unique1
I run the ppg 1st-5th straight cut dog gearset in a gtr box and its a great piece of gear, drives nicely and can be street drivin once you get the hang of rev matching on downshifts. The upshifts are easy and never crunch if u let it slide in slowly or jam it as hard as possible. I never realised how slow a synchro box was to shift until i drove the dog set, its just on another level and worth every cent.

Im running 560hp at wheels in a 1700kg stagea and done heaps of rev limiter launches and never had any breakages, plus heaps of slamming gears and all is perfect. Only issue with the straight cut option is the noise is pretty loud if its doing any street duties, but you are thinking helical so thats no drama.

thanks for the response and your experience with the ppg 1st-5th straight cut dog gearset. have you had a chance to drive the PPG Helical Dog Set? if you have, how would you compare them?

yes a dog box is a dog box. straight or helical all the same.

unless you are dedicated to smashing thru the gears when racing i wouldnt sugest it. but from your specs your not mucking around!! got a dyno sheet?

ps.. the straight cut one is very loud!! i had a 100db exhaust and cant hear it at all over the box.. lol.

pps. unique1, you must tell me how you up shift in detail!! lol. evan though i havent driven it since nov 07......

Hey Dave, upshifting is a simple case of revving to normal range for a shift when cruising (say 3000rpm) and put clutch in and wait till revs drop to the correct revs for the next gear (say 1800rpm) and slowly push it in and it will literally just fall into gear. I had trouble in beginning trying to jam it fast but the slower the better if u not revving it out to rpm limit, it works a treat, only the downshifts i sometimes have an issue with, but got used to it in the end. I havent drivin the car with the dogbox for a good 3 months, its going into another car now so no street duties anymore, the neighbours can have some peace from the whining :)

yes a dog box is a dog box. straight or helical all the same.

unless you are dedicated to smashing thru the gears when racing i wouldnt sugest it. but from your specs your not mucking around!! got a dyno sheet?

ps.. the straight cut one is very loud!! i had a 100db exhaust and cant hear it at all over the box.. lol.

pps. unique1, you must tell me how you up shift in detail!! lol. evan though i havent driven it since nov 07......

no dyno info at this time and I had to do an unplanned rebuild. :( the rebuild has taken forever (more than a year) as my pockets are not lined with money. anyway, my baby will be back on the road at the end of the month or the middle of March at the latest. :P I am looking at having the tune set with the high boost set at either 1.9 or 2.0 with low boost at 1.7-1.8. really leaning towards just to play it on the safe side most likely looking at keeping high boost at 1.9 until I am able to get the PPG Helical Dog Set.

we have fitted heaps of these and i cant say enough good things about them , only problem is the price really .

cheers.

thanks for the info

Hello, I am looking at upgrading my cross-mission w/center plate to the PPG 1st-4th Helical Dog Set in about six months, so I am no rush for information. However, I would prefer to hear from those that have had first hand experience with the PPG 1st-4th Helical Dog Set. Looking to match this up to my GT-R (BCNR33). I hate typing, so for a basic idea of my baby's build;

- HKS Fcon VPro

- HKS T51R BB

- ARC IC 3 core

- Tomei 270 10.8

- HKS Crankshaft balanced w/ ORC Triple-plate and ATI damper

- Greddy Surge tank

- Fuel Injectors 1000 cc

- Bosch, Fuel Pump x2

- Tires, 245/45-17 Nitto (Drag only)

- Tires, 265/35-18 Dunlap RE-01 (Daily use only)

- Tires, 275/35-18 BFG Drag Radials (Daily & Drag use?/ to be tested)

>_<

Mate I have got 2 PPG gearboxes in both my GTR R34 and GTR R32 all you need to do is when driving on the street is to double clutch both up and down and no problem. If you are giving it full throttle as fast as you can push the clutch and change the gear you will never beat it, this is better for the gearbox as it is designed to be flogged. You will never break it unless you crunch the dog engagement all the time, they hate to be slow changed you have to be positive...

Hope this helps.

How long do they last between rebuilds?

There is no need to rebuild them unless you crunch the dog engagements with bad shifts, Run Shockproof lightweight oil and they are good for years. They are hard on the little nylon bush that sits on the end of the shifter that goes into the gearbox selector, keep a couple as spares and as they wear will be harder to shift, just throw in a new one and all good. Takes 1/2 hour.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...