Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys im new and ive been reading through the threads but i cant figure out if my car is a V spec from the info on the site.

Here are the details.

VIN:- 6U9000BNR32309534

HCR32-259470

MODEL:- RCR32GASLAA

Some other codes.

KH2 G

rb20det 1998

RE4R01A RC43

5

Its got the big brembo brakes and finned diff cover but anyone can put that stuff on , so any help would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254273-vin-request-94-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

VIN:- 6U9000BNR32309534

This is an R32 GTR chassis number as recorded on the Australian system (original Japanese VIN with 6U9 and some 0's in front to make it 17 digits) and it belongs to a crystal white coloured May 1994 built GTR so it could well be a V-Spec model although it appears not to be from what I can see so far.

HCR32-259470

This is the Japanese VIN number from a November 1991 model GTS-T (a gunmetal grey coloured 4 door sedan with automatic transmission to be precise) ... this build date means that it's not allowed for import to Australia (mid-1991 to mid-1992 are not allowed for import) so there is a chance that it was imported illegally or was found to be a non-importable model once it arrived, and then may have been re-identified with a wrecked GTR's compliance information.

rb20det 1998

This is an R32 GTS-T engine code and cubic capacity ... does this car actually have an RB20DET engine (2000cc single turbo) or an RB26DETT (2600cc twin turbo) as it should if it were a GTR?

I would strongly advise you to look into this further before doing anything ... something is seriously wrong with the details you have given here. Check what VIN number is listed on your invoice and also what is on the import approval and/or compliance paperwork that you should have recieved with the car. I can check more details for you if required and give some advice on how to deal with it if necessary so please feel free to email me with any more details at [email protected]

They should not be on the same car ... I assume the 6U9000BNR32309534 is on a seperate VIN plate fitted for Australian compliance (and probably later swapped by someone dodgy to another car) and the HCR32-259470 number is on the factory build plate along with the other details given in the first post. If the BNR32 number and HCR32 number are both on the factory build plate then there is even more weird things going on here.

Quick questions:

- how many doors does this car have & what colour is it?

- what is the VIN number stamped into the firewall by the factory?

The 6u9000 number is on a tag on the strut tower which matches the number stamped on the firewall.

I have no doubt its a GTR as i used to have a 92 GTR so it has all the right bits.

pumped rear guards , alloy bonnet etc. its white , and has a N1 or Vspec bodykit , front bar is plastic? and it does have 2 doors.

I will double check which plate has what numbers , i agree hcr32 is a gtst number so i will have to look into that and get back to you, i do know that the hcr32 number and the RCR32 model number are on the same plate and its the one with the japanese writing on it.

I will get back to you tomorrow , but thanks everyone for your help.

Quick questions:

- how many doors does this car have & what colour is it?

- what is the VIN number stamped into the firewall by the factory?

according to the code he has provided its Gunmetal Grey

somthin seems very suss here..

The 6u9000 number is on a tag on the strut tower which matches the number stamped on the firewall.

I have no doubt its a GTR as i used to have a 92 GTR so it has all the right bits.

pumped rear guards , alloy bonnet etc. its white , and has a N1 or Vspec bodykit , front bar is plastic? and it does have 2 doors.

I will double check which plate has what numbers , i agree hcr32 is a gtst number so i will have to look into that and get back to you, i do know that the hcr32 number and the RCR32 model number are on the same plate and its the one with the japanese writing on it.

I will get back to you tomorrow , but thanks everyone for your help.

With any luck it's just a case of it having the HCR32 body tags stuck on the BNR32 body, although I can't imagine why anyone would do that ... in any case just let us know if you need any more answers or help with anything there.

  • 1 month later...
The 6u9000 number is on a tag on the strut tower which matches the number stamped on the firewall.

I have no doubt its a GTR as i used to have a 92 GTR so it has all the right bits.

pumped rear guards , alloy bonnet etc. its white , and has a N1 or Vspec bodykit , front bar is plastic? and it does have 2 doors.

I will double check which plate has what numbers , i agree hcr32 is a gtst number so i will have to look into that and get back to you, i do know that the hcr32 number and the RCR32 model number are on the same plate and its the one with the japanese writing on it.

I will get back to you tomorrow , but thanks everyone for your help.

All that is stuff that could quite easily been put on...

How about the important stuff like, I dunno...

Driveshafts connected to the front wheels, twin turbos, the RB26 engine...

You know, the sorta stuff you wouldnt normally expect to see in a GTSt thats been done up to look like a GTR

  • 2 months later...
VIN:- 6U9000BNR32309534

This is an R32 GTR chassis number as recorded on the Australian system (original Japanese VIN with 6U9 and some 0's in front to make it 17 digits) and it belongs to a crystal white coloured May 1994 built GTR so it could well be a V-Spec model although it appears not to be from what I can see so far.

ave recieved with the car. I can check more details for you if required and give some advice on how to deal with it if necessary so please feel free to email me with any more details at [email protected]

Can you help me identify whether a car I am looking at is indeed a GTR V Spec? The car is advertised as a White 1994 R32 V Spec and has a VIN No 6U9000BNR32314072. Is there a way of checking if in fact this is as it appears?

thanks Mike

Built October 1994, doesn't appear to be a V-Spec. That late in 1994 it would've been a V-Spec II anyway.

Hi Iron Chef thanks for your quick reply, I really appreciate it. This info is a great service

So from your check was it white, and can I be sure that it is not a V Spec?

regards

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...